Відео

It worked okay, I ended up switching back to the OEM after a few months. If you have a digital fuel gauge now it's not bad. The speedometer was inaccurate over 70. Wiring was a lot of trial and error and it would reset from time to time losing my initial settings. If yours is busted and you need one in a pinch go for it, but if you're looking for an upgrade, pass. I think this is a knock off of the Corsa gauge, But I think that one's $300 and this was $30

Thank you for making this video now I have a better understanding of what to do

You have to get into the menu, if I'm not mistaken it's default to one for four cylinders, one wrapped, four cylinders. I don't remember what the default wheel size is, you have to measure the outside diameter of the tire and enter that in millimeters. But again I don't remember how to enter the menu. I no longer have this bike

Awesome, I hope it works out for you. The speed and rpm can get wonky at higher speed or Revs. If either is an issue, adding more pickups should help. Cheaper the gauge, more problems

@@xxjoltxx1 yeah the issue at first was getting the unit to switch from km/h to MPH.

@@xxjoltxx1 the tach was working before until i got the unot to switch over to mph

The only wires I rerouted we're the turnsignals. The neutral light I extended from the idiot light cluster. I used the existing cluster as those have analog inputs running on resistance like the fuel light. When the resistance drops the light comes on. Aftermarket clusters typically use digital signals and have to have a specific sending unit. To detect water temperature for instance, you must add a digital temp sensor in line in order to use the gauge in the cluster. Without the additional sensor, you just get the error code, a blinking meter.

@@xxjoltxx1 thanks. I think I will just have to live with no fuel gauge 😂

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The entire speedometer is shutting of or is it the mph or rpm. if it's the entire speedometer you probably either have a bad power or a bad ground. The power should be run straight to the battery oh, the ground should be run straight to the frame

@@xxjoltxx1 Thanks for your response! is not shutting of. When i start the motor the speedometer counting 9 seconds, after looks fine, but when i pull the throttle, all the indications on the speedometer starts blinking :D

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DD Ha I don't have the gauges anymore I would not remember how to change any configurations

then do you happen to remember anything about the speeometer basicly not showing anyreal number but 0 and sometimes a 1.

DD Ha where did you place the pickup magnet?

on the inside of the tire, the thing is at the beginning it did work(the rpm didn't but the speedometer at least did), but then I tried to do something with the menu, and suddenly it just stopped working altogether.

j a yeah, I am horrible at solder

Richard Garrison I don't use the cluster anymore. I searched "motorcycle gauge" on eBay and found another seller, the "diagram," and I use that loosely, is in the description on some better sellers. Black and yellow wire is engine pulse, I copy pasted for you: Orange: left turn signal light Light Blue: right turn signal light Dark Blue: low-high beam light Blue and White: water temperature Yellow and White: gasoline gauge take unit Black and Yellow: speed (connected to the engine pulses) Red: positive Green: negative Black: power switch Green and Yellow: hand brake parking lights Green, white magnetic induction line

@@xxjoltxx1 there is absolutely nothing like that in the description

@@CoreyDrums this is a generic design style. Depending on the manufacturer all color coding could be different. This was specific to mine over 2 years ago. The seller should include a diagram or legend specific to what's purchased.

Richard Garrison tach signal on the bike or the gauges? The gauges work off pulses, you set the cylinders you have, 4 on most sports bikes. I jumped a wire off one of my coil packs to the new gauges. The rpm are not very accurate, they were fine under 8k but read less and less accurate the higher they went

Richard Garrison LOL, I did use a Sawzall on that front fender. I ended up putting a replacement fender on there as my chop job was just that

Alex Wolf I used a diagram I found on the yzf600r forums. They're hard to read. The only thing you end up using with this cluster are power, ground, hi/lo beams, and turn signals. The wire output on the old yzf are analog, the cluster is digital. You need extra hardware for oil water and fuel gauges, I never used em. This setup lasted me a week, the rpm and speed were not accurate and bounced all over.

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@@storman7609 that is NOT the same one. Smh....

@@CoreyDrums oh sorry man

Andre Turner, you can see the metal bracket with all the holes in it. That's a simple strip of metal from Home Depot I acquired for about $5, I cut it down to size and bent the edges at 90 degree angles to make them out. I forget exactly where I bolted it too, as I did not continue to use this gauge cluster. It was very inaccurate

But yes, it's all in the same amount that I made in this video. It did work, and I probably would have kept it if it was not for the inaccuracies

j sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I hope you managed to get used to work after 5 months LOL. I drilled a small hole in my front brake caliper where a heat vent already was that did not touch the actual brake shoes. It was closer towards the center of the rotor. I mounted the reader near that, I believe I made some sort of bracket and gorilla glued it to the bracket and bolt of the bracket to the inside of the front fender, you could not see it at all. The problem I ran into was the speedometer would randomly show high speeds and low speeds even when I was keeping it consistent speed. This is a very poor quality gauge cluster, can't expect too much for 30 bucks I suppose when the actual one is about 200 from Koso

most of these speedos have to be set up, the wire for rpm i had wrapped around on spark plug and set the speedo to 1/4, one wire for 4 cylinders