Відео

@@MoDave82 what year model was that?

@@julianmassetti3538 I’ve done this many many times over the last 10+ years. It is not sealed off. Several other people have commented they have gotten this to work too. Not sure why you had an issue with yours.

@@mragentsmith4588 Yeah I ended up changing several parts and it still did it. 60 thousand miles later and it’s still the same.

Thanks man! Glad it helped

Thank you sir glad to help

Glad to help!

Not over thinking it man just thinking lol You only use the front two You don’t use the rear two and those get tuned out The third one is for wide band tuning

Thank you! They are Niche Elan

@@DavidRobinson-n9r Dude, screw all that. Drop a new hose and vacuum canister in it for $20 and 20 minutes of your time.

Speed engineering doesn’t make a 1-3/4….. Then only make 1-7/8….. So these are 1-7/8……

@@blk95gsrt part number? please

The larger heavy duty work trucks with the same transmission that pull trailers etc run much higher temperatures because they get worked a lot harder, but they somehow last a lot longer. So if you focused on temperature alone, then that would mean higher temps make it last longer… So that isn’t what’s going on cause we all know high temps aren’t good. So no the thermostat thing is not true. The bigger trucks have a 6L90 but use the same converter and the 6L90 also fails when the torque converter clutch wears out. Same failure same thermostat same everything. The problem is the commanded slip that wears out the torque converter clutch, it’s a lot more active on the 1500 trucks than the 2500 and 3500 trucks. The TCM commands the clutch to slip at all times at a 200 rpm rate and that causes it to fail and send metal throughout the transmission and ruin it all. The transmissions don’t mind running at 200 ish degrees at all actually. Over 240 or so is concerning though.

​@@blk95gsrtwhy is that constan slip for at every 200 o 2000 RPM? Whats that supost to help on this trassmition?

@@joniguzman7217 It makes the Transmisson feel smoother. Which most of us don’t care about

This is also actually a stock 6.2 catback on a 5.3 truck with the magnaflow 12909 muffler in place of the stock muffler and the flapper valve removed. The 6.2 catback is 3.5” all the way to the resonator at the rear of the exhaust. I have since cut the resonator off to give it a little bit more sound and now have the exhaust just dumped over the rear axle This is also with no catalytic converters, which keep the exhaust even quieter. My first catback was headers with the stock 5.3 catback and a magnaflow muffler. That setup, like this current setup, picked up power and mpg over the stock muffler

No I don’t. They’re just there already I just took them off and wrapped them

There isn’t any part numbers for anything. This is a series of videos of me taking the seats apart and wrapping the plastic doo dads with tape and reassembling. It’s still working great years later

Look up the vacuum hose diagram for the vehicle and it will tell you

I put a few small dabs of rtv silicone on the back of the letters and put them back in. Haven’t had any problems with them and it’s been a long time since I’ve done this

I ended up spray painting the letters black and gluing them back in with rtv. Worked so good and looks good

No those are a different grade of plugs

I watched your video. That sounds different than mine did. Yours may be the sensor itself making noise.

at 1:22 in my video and at 1:33 you can hear the noise. It's a poppy click sound. And mine would also rattle when hitting bumps in the road.

@@blk95gsrt yeah its like mine sounds like teeth in a gear that are stripped or something. I can press on the sensor and move it a little and it sort of makes the same kind of sound

@@bobmiller45 I would start with replacing the steering angle sensor and go from there.

@@blk95gsrt Yeah I think thats probably what I need to do. In your opinion, you think it’d last without replacing it ?

You’re welcome. Did you already install the pads and see if it helped?

I have a pop sound from the front end every few months or so that I can't find. But had nothing to do with what I'm showing in this video.

I have that same pop noise in the front end when turning sharp left occasionally, checked inner tie rod. Really confused what it is if anybody knows?!

400 for headers and y pipe. Speedenginnering.com

Thanks man. I made 5 videos on this yesterday, this is the longest one. In the last 2 videos I do some driving with the lockup turned completely off and I like it. Won’t be able to do any tuning and testing until at least January though. I need to go ahead buy hp tuners at some point so I can mess with this myself.

@@blk95gsrt cool...I'll check them out

Sweet man. Hopefully they weren't stretched any, if they aren't stretched they should be at least somewhat difficult to put on. Make sure that they fit really tight against the injector after you get them installed or they will leak. If there is any looseness at all make sure you shrink them down before putting them in the engine.

No I didn’t need them. On the passenger side you need to pull the wiring off the firewall and reroute it a little bit. So if you look along the firewall on the passenger side there is a wire that goes to the oxygen sensor on that side of the truck. It clips on to a stud on the firewall and you can pull that clip and move it over a little to get the little extra length you need in that wire

@@blk95gsrt appreciate it. Can't get a clear answer online and didn't want to buy and not use them.

@@nvdubs From what I understand the 14 and 15 doesn't need an extension but 16-18 do. Not 100% sure on the year break, all I can tell you is mine was okay without an extension.

@@blk95gsrt mine come in tomorrow, seems people like these long tubes. I had ceramic pacesetters on my 04 and the coating wore off in the first year. They were more than speed engineering. Glad I found them for my 2014. Can't beat the price they have stainless steel headers.

@@nvdubs These headers are really really good man. So is the y pipe. Sealing sucks on them but everything else is top notch I’ve had and looked at a lot of headers. In this video you can see how I did my oxygen sensor wire with a little zip tie and moving the clip over at .22-.26 seconds in the video

Yes quite a bit

No that's the steering angle sensor

blk95gsrt thank you I can’t get mine to stop ticking even with the card board

@@adenseay4513 That sucks and sorry I just saw this. Try replacing it and see if that helps

@Jess Danger Yes mine is still dead quiet. You may have some other issue going on.

My seats are still dead quiet after all this time. I never did put any lube on these pieces. Wrapping them in tape cured mine.

I'm not sure if you mean adding lithium grease after the tape or just putting grease only. Just putting grease only will not help. These things make noise because of sloppy fitting pieces. And I'm not positive if it's that the bolts holding the white pieces weren't tight enough or if the tape was the cure or both. Some people use a piece of radiator hose and a hose clamp to help cure the noise from the white pieces. They wrap radiator hose around the black tube and push it up against those white pieces and put a clamp around the hose..

blk95gsrt I have a 2018 Silverado that makes a clacking noise when my truck has been sitting in the heat. I have to push it so the noise can go away, or when a passenger is sitting down, the noise goes away. Idk if it’s the same issue that you had.

@@MarioSays713 I would have to be there to take it all apart and look at it to tell you man. I do know there are a few different things that can cause noises. You'll have to get in there and take stuff apart like I did and figure it out.

I did not have a compression leak. The way I did them kept them from getting over stretched and needing to be shrunk. If I had used a normal expander and not fought them on the way I did they would have gotten stretched more and needed shrinking. If you are concerned about shrinking them there is a cool trick using a rubber vacuum hose and sliding it over the injector and seals and squishing the hose with hose clamps. There's a video here on youtube that shows how to do it, look for that and doing that mixed with my way you should be good. I did spray some spray lubricant on my seals and seal bores while installing the injectors to help them slide down in there and help keep from pulling one back or off causing a leak. A buddy of mine did his seals the way I did mine here but he stretched them out more than I did to where he didn't have to fight them on like you see me doing in the video and he did have a leak. He redid the seals and did the rubber hose and hose clamp trick and got that to work out. But again, mine is working great because I barely barely stretched the seals to where they had to be fought/worked on the injector and that kept them small enough to not require a shrinking tool

I may have heard a similar sound.....did you find a fix ?

Yours sounds more like this? ua-cam.com/video/NFdokVsNgag/v-deo.html

It was fairly consistent, and also rattled going down the road hitting bumps. Sorry it took so long to reply, I never saw a notification that people were posting on this video

Mine sounds like what you’re describing (I have a 2017 Silverado). Its definitely coming from this sensor. I wonder if maybe it needs more grease on the steering shaft or something - maybe dielectric grease? Not sure.

@@bobmiller45 I didn’t see anything in there that would indicate lubricating any of the components would help, in this situation the noise is coming from one piece of plastic sitting loosely inside another piece of plastic and rattling. I can’t see putting grease in there helping that. If you took two pieces of plastic and smothered them in grease and hit them together they would still make noise.

I'm not from that group, and neither are most of the employees. But what does that have to do with the video anyway?

silentbravo lol probably so. Or a new cardboard TSB 😆

You have a part number or a link I can look up? I'm gonna have to do more direct injection seals in the future and I'll likely need a tool for it at some point. When I looked before the tools were several hundred dollars.

I actually just found them, thanks for the tip, that's awesome! For those looking www.amazon.com/OTC-6707-Injector-Installer-Adapter/dp/B07CVKNSQX/ref=asc_df_B07CVKNSQX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309898128610&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=918982999399257750&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026927&hvtargid=pla-568420270002&psc=1

I would, the cylinder is under a lot of pressure and being 100% sealed is critical. The seals are cheap and they are easy to install so I personally would replace them every time. I had before said that it should be okay to reuse, and they may be just fine to re use. But I would hate to put it all back together and find out I was wrong especially considering how cheap the seals are, even directly from the dealership.

I did it because there was an updated seal set from GM and they weren't very expensive. It didn't have any problems or leaks or anything. I didn't have anything to do at the shop that day so I decided to swap them out and see what it was like to do them.

I only changed the seals you see in the video because that's the ones that were in the update kit, the other seals were still good.

Do you have the GM part number for that updated seal set

I cut them off with a razor knife. Just made a little slit in them and they came right off.

I used a pry bar after talking to guys at a speed shop that work on a lot of direct injected LT motors. Just go slow and easy and you can pry them out. I put a light amount of lube on the seals and slowly pulled the rails back down with the bolts making sure to tighten the bolts evenly.

Grinding that pen tip down was the hardest part, trying to get it to a good size but not too small or too big. Too big and it would over stretch the seal, if I were to do this again I would probably just try shoving the seals on without the pen tip. I haven't tried it yet so not sure if the using the pen tip to stretch them just a hair really was necessary.