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I don't think that's normal for the water to flow out on all 4 ports. When cleaning it via a tube and syringe, it would have some ink push back into the syringe, but only on the ink port that you're cleaning.

@@KN4LXD Yes, that's what I thought would or should happen, but it surprised me when I saw that.

Thank you!

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@@KN4LXDhe means the logos in the intros

These can be power by low-voltage supply, but I'd have to check the pinout of the 8 pins that connects to it.

@@KN4LXD It would be great if you could. Im sure a few of those pins are soldered together.

@@KN4LXD id also be interested in seeing what those pins on the power supply are, i have an EX3700 and its only 4 pins, 2 are 3.3v 2 are ground

Hopefully the guy that has one can shed some light on pinout and voltage.

Try to clean the gold pins on the board and the zebra strip that contact it on the LCD. Also try to check if the strip and the pins makes good contact by open it up and press on the LCD slowly (don't press it too hard though) to see if it works again.

Thank you!

It depends on what you have at home. Either IPA or vinegar with distilled water is fine.

It could be smaller if it doesn't have the keychain hole and the half-horizontal board. I think that if the whole board is compacted enough, it could be fitted in the same size as a CR2032 cell.

@@KN4LXD Just found pebblebee which is a lot smaller and even rechargable. Guess I'll try this one next.

I unfortunately don't have the M2035 in hand. Sorry about that. Based on the focal length and sensor size, it would be closer to the P3265 (as well as M4215 and the M3085) on the DLPU performance. The CV25 DLPU on the M series camera only works well when it has enough light (or IR illumination). Otherwise, when it's in low light (with no help from the built-in IR), the performance will suffer due to it only having Lightfinder 1.0 (unlike the P series Lightfinder 2.0).

Thank you!

Thank you for the nice comment! And sorry about the sound. I turn it off because I used my PTZ to stream (The motor makes whirring noise when any pan or tilt function is being used).

I would love to, but currently I do have school and all that stuff (Plus I need to get a good multimeter as my current meter is broken.) Whenever I get a new multmeter, then I will try my best to fix it :)

Sorry for taking so long to respond. Do you still see the paper towel anywhere near the print head?

Vinegar is fine, but you probably need to dilute it with distilled water.

@@KN4LXD thanks!

No problem!

Thank you!

I don't think it's possible to remove it seamlessly, due to the keyring hole is glued between 2 part together (see 1:48 for the keyring hole assembly).

@@KN4LXD what about blocking the contacts? So it doesnt get power?

It could work, but the case still need to be opened to block the speaker contact (or take out the bare board, but then that makes it more fragile to handle).

Thank you!

I'm about to try the same thing on my mother's printer lol.. not sure if it is the same issue but I assume it is. Just printing out blank sheets and everything is correct software wise

Thank you!

The whole chase scene will be uploaded eventually, but I don't know when. I have to cut out the background by hand for the accuracy of the body, so it took anywhere between 3-5 hours to finish each scene. Thankfully, the animation is running at 12fps (double into 1080p25 of the original video), so the work is a little bit easier.

@@KN4LXD Oh, I also cut the background frame-by-frame, but foolishly used the 1080p60 version where there were 3-5 useless frames for each movement. I did all this in Adobe AE using the Rotoscope Tool. It was insanely hard and put a lot of strain on my PC. It was only when I did everything that I realized that all this animation is cyclical, it was possible to use one animation cycle to make it complete. If I had noticed it earlier, there would have been less work.....

Thank you!

Sorry for the late response! You could put in actual paper and try printing something in the best quality (so the printer head will move slower). And when it says "Printing", open the cover to see where the print head is. If it is moving to the left, unplug the printer so that it isn't locked to the starting position. If you need any more help, you could comment back and I will try to see what the problem is.

Sorry for the late response! Here's the board dimension: 2.2cm x 3.1cm

@@KN4LXD no problem, thanks a lot :)

Thank you so much​@@KN4LXD

@@KN4LXD aaand can you measure also thickness (in the thickest and thinnest place) please?

No problem! Here's the thickness of the board: With battery terminal: Around 4mm Board only (battery terminal unsoldered + circuit on board): Around 1mm

I agree! B&W printer are generally more reliable. Less thing to break and no "yellow ink low" when you only want to print a B&W copy of something.

Thank you!

Thank you!

@@KN4LXD For me, I had to do about 30 paper towels with windex lol took forever but it did eventually work for anyone out there with a major blockage in their printer head.

Alcohol is OK, but I would only use it as a last measure. Often times, Windex (and printer built-in cleaning cycles) is enough to clear out the clogged printhead.

It does have an accelerometer (probably the small black chip near the P8904E audio IC, and the nRF itself has no accelerometer).

Thank you!

Con cảm ơn Bác đã xem đoạn video này!

I often get these camera from eBay. Surprisingly, the picture quality is not bad at all!

No problem!

No problem!

I can't do black screen instead of greenscreen, due to it messing up both the logo and the animation sequence. Sorry about that.

@@KN4LXD it ok :D

No problem!

Here's the no logo version (from my Google Drive): drive.google.com/file/d/1t129dVicNSercUoJZnCUxOM4NV_4IA-M/view?usp=sharing

it says i need access@@KN4LXD

Sorry about the response time. I just updated the link so anyone can view it.

No problem!

These are Bluetooth only. It rely on other people's phone to pick up the tracker's Bluetooth signal, and then relay the tracker's info and the phone's GPS data to the Apple Find My network to show the (approximate) location.

Thank you for your kind words!

Thank you!

The liquid that I'm using is some dollar store equivalent of Windex.

Thank you!

You could charge it, but you will need something to connect to the battery terminal itself. Also, you will need to set the maximum voltage and current to these values: Voltage: 12.6V (Max voltage, as indicated on the battery itself) Current: 500mA to 1A (500mA will prolong the battery life. 1A if you want a fast charge)

It depends on what country you're living in, so I might or might no be able to help you find the right battery.

Sorry but I can't do it because I also doesn't have a charger for the battery.

Same issue..plz find a solution to charge this battery without charger.if anyone have the solution ..plzz suggest

You could charge it using the battery contact on the top of the battery.

Yeah that is my callsign for ham radio As for how to get rid of the stickyness: I only used normal glass cleaner, and a lot of scrubbing on the main body (it takes around 15-40min to get rid of at least 90% of stickyness)

It probably is a fried microcontroller or shorted component. I got the same thing, but I haven't diagnose it yet

Glad to help!

I think the same battery is used in both Osmo and Osmo+ (Same spec and same case and battery contact)

I haven't tried to fix it yet. But I looked at my main board and everything is good. I think this may be a common problem for these Fluke 6x series IR thermometer.

@@KN4LXD ok thank you for your answer ! If you manage to repare it I would be very grateful if you could explain me what was wrong. I will also search from myself but my main board is also good. I will check signals with a scope.

No problem! In fact, I would revisit this thermometer sometimes between this week and next week (provided that I have a few hours to work on this)

Oh crap sorry about that. I was switching to the picture mode instead of video mode

@@KN4LXD Ish okie :)