Відео

rpms? reads much more healthy than my s62 but sounds worse. is it on castrol 10w60? you ever try motul sport 5w50? it's a good oil

One suggestion is to take two long M6 bolts and screw them in to support the vanos. That way the bolts hold its weight and it doesn't drop once the adjuster is disconnected.

Wow! This video may open doors to many a DIY car buff 💪

Great video. A window of opportunity for all DIY enthusiasts!

Great video. A window of opportunity for all DIY enthusiasts!

Didn't see you remove cable from motor. How did you install motor without attaching cable which allows window to go up or down??? Did I miss something.

Looks normal to me. That’s the tensioner working.

This only works if you are not replacing the spline gears, right? If those are removed, it will effect the timing?

Its help me very mutch! Thx!

Hey you got anytype of social media i can message you on o got a few questions on maintenance and tools on this type of car i would like some more info about

I have same problem. How did you fix it ? 😮

Extremely Helpful ! Was able to fix both front window regulators on 540i -

with cars with door air bag don't unplug or you'll get a airbag light you'll have to pay to clear. unbolt 3 10mm bolts move the airbag upward and use lower bolt hole to mount on upper thread hole to place out of the way. The door panel can be bundee'd out of the way to the inner headliner handle to hold out of the way. The driver door will have plastic rivets holding window control switches in so this method works without removing it

No timing adjustment necessary? All you have to do is simply put back on and good to go?

Excellent job Muhammad! Thank you

Is this normal ??

This is a good time to mention that people have been killed by that door airbag trying to use a 'slim jim' to unlock the car door. For those who don't know, it's a long slender strip of metal with a notch that slips in between the window and door seal. The idea is to snag the door latch mechanism inside the door panel to unlock the door. Most modern cars now have door airbags so it's no longer the car thief's tool of choice, but there's always going to be some newbie who doesn't know any better and BOOM, the metal rod gets propelled up into the thief's head, killing him instantly.

Awesome thanks for this DIY

I think the problem with mine might be that one of the red plastics on the motor broke and that's what's making my window only go about a quarter up. those anyone know where I can buy those red plastics

just finished this and this video was SUPER HELPFUL! one big tip i found on a forum - my window would not go up all the way, kept catching and stopping 2/3 of the way up - alignment wasn't great but it wasn't the window in the clips, it turns out it was the bottom mount of the regulator. Suggestion from the forum post was to loosen all 5 bolts that secure the regulator (3 torx on top, 2 10mm on bottom) and re-mount the window in the clips - this allowed one of the bottom posts to slide a bit better into position and no issues after that! re-tightened the bottom two, couldn't get the top three because window was in the way but i'm not super concerned, only half a turn out of snug.

Great video - THANK YOU!

The clutch should NOT "engage over 3000rpm". It is only controlled by temperature. When it is in engaged state, it should also LIMIT the fan speed to 2400rpm (approx) regardless of engine speed.

This video shows a fan clutch NOT in action? It is disengaged.

Hey man great video, I want to know: I can hear the motor running but the window doesn't go down properly, do I need a new regulator/actuator or new motor?

did your car come stock with the blue leather interior panels or how did you do that? looks sick..

and went back on fine?

Thank you for this!

a quick note, a regulator from an e38 7-series fits right in where the e39 regulator does, just use the bolts from the e39 regulator since they're a little shorter. you can get e38 regulators from junkyards for cheap, like under $100, they always include the motor make sure to get one from a 2000 or 2001 because they used a later-style cable guide which was more durable then, drop $100 on some stainless steel machined pulleys sold by this guy on bimmerforums www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2202261-BMW-Window-Regulator-Metal-Pulley-Retrofit-Kit these pulleys on an e38 regulator makes it basically indestructible, since e38 regulators ONLY fail from shattered pulleys. congrats, for $200 you have an unkillable window regulator

Hi there thanks for the video, when you removed the glass from the top of the door, I take it you had to unscrew it from the rubber holders of the regulator yes ? & if so if the window won't go down i take it you can still get to these screws ? Many thanks again 😃👍

Did you use soap to clean it?

Vile

Awesome video, I am waiting for the part to arrive, as my drivers window doesn't go down. Approximately how much time does it take to do the whole procedure? I am already familiar with removing the door panel and getting to the window regulator, but I've never removed it before. Is it a one man job?

Have previously done the RH side drivers window; and the window has become 'displaced' or the regulator broken (again) so useful refresher to open up and repairs. Thanks for your useful and informative guide. (In Aus - so this is the driver's side which gets all the use.)

Just did my driver's side after watching your excellent tutorial. Thanks!

sounds seriously wrong, what was the cause?

what a horrible design.

Thanks for the help! it worked great!

You the best!!! I replaced my rear right side and its a totally different animal than the front one. This video is the best on youtube for sure!!!

NOTE: Plug the motor back in before reinstalling glass.

superb work and video thanks

Thanks a million. Your video helped me a great deal. I would have broken a few things if I hadn't looked at your posting. Put an aftermarket part in, so I hope it work well for a few years.

got damn that was a lot of work. what all tools did you use?

thanks :) you helped me a lot :)

Is that a diesel? Please tell me yeah

Your car is an X5? I do not know if it is supposed to behave the same as an M5. On E39 M5's the jet-like sound usually means a bad fan clutch, but your description is showing that it does disengage sometimes. Sorry I can't help you much.

sorry for bugging you. last question! here are two videos. this /watch?v=GccBciJr3gU is filmed with a engine just started. i can stop the fan this /watch?v=yeA48CeB5F0 is filmed with the engine on idle for 5 minutes, onces revved to 3000 rpm and coolan temp just 55 celsius. as you can see i cannot stop the fan on the second video... so my clutch is working on cold start but then fails, after first 3000 rpm? thanks!

If it is happening below 3000 RPM then chances are the fan clutch has seized and needs replacement. Check out m5board.com for more information.

It remains engaged if any of the following conditions is true: 1) The first two minutes of operation 2) Coolant temperature is above 79°C 3) Engine runs above 3000 RPM So if the engine has been running for a while and the coolant temperature is below 79°C, the fan clutch will engage whenever the engine RPM goes above 3000 and will disengage whenever it drops below 3000 RPM

and we got this "jet taking off" sound... i always though it should disengage and be like in your video

okay, so it engages above 3000 rpm, but then what? disengage or remains engaged?