Відео

I found the glide pretty comparable, with a slight edge to the Allstar. The Allstar is better suited for heavier riders as the waterline isn’t compromised even with 100kg. For sprinting the RST was a bit faster, as the tail doesn’t dip down as much. Primary stability is better with the RST as the Allstar tends to roll a bit more, but the old SIC Models did have even better first stability. Drainage was better on the Allstar, as well as turning. Up to 90kg the RST should be great in 24,5“, the Allstar 24,5 up to 100kg.

Thanks ! I am close to 100kg and have a 2021 Allstar wood carbon. It is very responsive and excellent glide but stability is tricky (lateral). You get used to but this consumes energy. I tried a RS and is way more stable (primary) but less glide. I am looking for a board that is less rolling than my AS or more primary stability but still good glide. Or maybe wider Allstar like a 26''?

@@olivierdecroly661 Maybe the 2024 could be even more stable than the 2023 Allstar. I know the 2021 Allstar and you can find the reviews of all those models on my website. The 2023 Allstar is not much different but there’s no water entry and in my case I think it was the best option to get used to the responsive feeling. Once you got it dialed in, the Allstar is hard to beat. Each design has its strengths and downsides.

@@jekyllsports have you tried wider Allstar like 26’’?

@@olivierdecroly661 yes… but I feel comfortable enough on the 24,5 and as the drainage was my biggest concern with the 2021 Model, I don’t know why I should go for a 26“ Allstar.

Vielen Dank! Sollte demnächst noch einiges mehr kommen 😉

Ich bin ja nicht prinzipiell gegen die WingBar, diese hat bei meinem Ford Galaxy BJ 2016 hervorragend funktioniert. Die Kombi mit dem dünnen, Schwingungsanfälligem Enyaq Dach ist das Problem und daher vermute ich nicht, dass die Edge außer weniger Auflagefläche ein anderes Ergebnis zur Folge hätte.

Danke für die Einschätzung!

Although it was just an experiment of my buddy and far away from designing a proper Raceboard, it’s actually really fast. Standing position is below waterline and therefore the 20“ width feel manageable. A rounded bow would be even faster, but I think volume should not be lowered in the nose. But there will be a Gravedigger V0.2 😅

Honestly I‘m not a big fan of those extreme nose piercing designs, especially in moving waters. I need the stability not only in the standing area, but also in the bow when water‘s a little messier. If you’re searching for a Starboard do it all board with flatwater focus, I‘d go for the GenR.

Absolutely… if I want to do some cheat measurements I only have to perform a hefty start and chances are high to get some +15kph readings. Doing comparisons over more than 100m is a bit difficult as several things come into play. I‘ll do some more tests with my boards… finally I do want to figure out which is fastest for sprints. Chances are high the Light GT will win ;-)

Danke für deinen Anmerkung betreffend Speedcoach 2… ja, den hatte ich damals auch am Schirm, als ich mich für das Makai entschieden habe. Velocitek hatte mir auch eine ziemlich gute technische Abhandlung zur Geschwindigkeitsmessung mittels Glonass, GPS, Galileo und GPS Shift sowie andere Problemchen der Geschwindigkeitsmessung bei niedrigen Geschwindigkeiten. Am Handgelenk kann zudem ein Messfehler durch die Veränderung der Handposition relativ zum Board entstehen, erklärt aber noch nicht die teils massiven Differenzen zwischen iPhone und Makai. Connor nehm ich die 19km/h schon ab. Alleine seine besten 200m Läufe sind gerechnete 15,5km/h SCHNITT mit stehendem Start. Hast du den Speedcoach und könntest auch mal einen Vergleich machen?

The dB setting is only the input level of the sub that has to be dialed in with your AVR! In my case I have to run them at -20dB to get the calibrated output audyssey is opting for. There are several measurements of this sub that show that it‘s still one of the most capable ULF Subwoofers from a bigger company out there. Maybe your SUB placement is the problem as the room acoustics play the biggest role. In my case the Subs are NOT corner loaded and I‘m still getting >120dBC at listening position above 18Hz. There are more capable subs in the >30Hz region, but very very few that can match its output below 31Hz!

​@@jekyllsports Oh ok, so I should increase the volume on the AVR? I'm new to the whole SVS world. Ive only had subpar subs like Klipsch and BIC that have the volume knob on the amp. I have the PB sitting in the corner of the room and the SB in just on the other side of the cabinet under the TV. My living room isn't an enclosed room which definitely hurts the amount of bass. I have the PB's middle port plugged right now, should I tune it to 16hz or 20hz? The bass is pretty good plus you can definitely feel it too. I'm just trying to get the absolute best output possible. The downside of the PB is it has the sledge amp that came out right before they transitioned to the bluetooth amp, so all I'm working with is the screen on the back that has only a couple functions. Should I adjust the HPF and LPF? I set the phase on 0 degrees, then tried 180 degrees, but it surprisingly didn't really make a difference. If I turned on the room gain comp, it would take away some output right? My living room has 8' ceiling, 14'x18'.

@@justinmanny86 Seems you definitely have to do some research regarding your Setup. Use a good AVR and don’t mix different subs. Chances are good that they cancel out each other in certain areas. My room is also not closed and even bigger than yours 😉 The Sub Volume should be adjusted to blend in nicely with your fronts. Room gain comp is only needed in smaller closed rooms. When plugging one port: 16Hz. No Plugs 20hz , all plugged= closed setting. Maybe you should try to get help in the avsforum. The PB13 is a great sub and the SB13 is far away regarding deep bass performance. I also did a lot of measurements and trials with mix and matching different subs. And also these diagonal placements do create more problems than it‘d help to get a smooth and strong bass. Every Loudspeaker created phase shifts at different frequencies, so find a good crossover and don’t mix these subs 😉

Vielen Dank! Vielleicht versuch ich jetzt mal mehrere Videos zu machen. Ist unterm Strich deutlich weniger Arbeit als die ausführlichen Berichte zu schreiben 😅

I did those comparisons many years ago. SB13 is a capable small sub but worlds away from the PB13s deep Bass performance. You‘d need 4 x SB13 to match the PB13s Output at 20Hz. I‘d always go with a ported SVS if you have the required floor space.

I‘d say if you’re a heavier person and have good stability skills go for the Allstar. The SIC RS is a easier to manage board and compressive strength is better with SIC, but the Allstar has nearly no flex. Treated well they’ll both last a long time. The Allstar is made quite perfectly… if it would have the same ventilation system (gore) and the same compressive strength at the SIC RS weight it would be perfect. RS = easy to handle , Allstar = Better glide, takes more time to get used to it

@@jekyllsports Thank you very much for your help, you are very kind. A greeting from Spain.

@@PRS792 You’re welcome! Check out my website for lots of reviews and much more detailed information than I‘m currently able to show in a video. There will also be more about the GenR vs RS and Allstar

@@jekyllsports Thank you very much!

Absolutely, but even with 70kg… Flatdeck Boards will have water on deck. Nothing to complain about, but to think about when you want to have a dry Deckpad during winter training sessions. And you’re totally right… I think the Rockerline of the current RS is more suitable for riders up to 80kg. The old RS had much more rocker.

agree, i have a flat deck board but is wider en has much rocker but my feet are dry under normal paddling ;-) i have been on the RS your riding and i can not remember it was very much, but is was only a few minutes. @@jekyllsports

@@pa5zl when I keep the board level I also don’t get water on the standing area 😂 I‘m heavy but below 100kg 😉 I wanted to show that when you lean the board left to right water gets on the deck quite fast. That’s also a good thing as the standing position is only 2-3cm above water level. With a drainage system like the Atlantis or better the GenR, this would be better.

Korrekt montiert, sollte das beim Golf allerdings kein Problem sein. Wichtig… dicker Teil nach vorne und an den vom Hersteller vorgegebenen Montagepunkten. Beim Ford Galaxy hatte ich NULL Probleme, egal bei welcher Geschwindigkeit. Der Enyaq hat einfach ein viel zu weiches Dach. Allgemein hakt es da an einigen Stellen.

You could easily find it out with the carfinder of the Thule website. Kit 186096, 711300 Thule Flush Rail Evo

Nach EINER Ausfahrt? Nein, ich werde noch einige Vergleichstests und Messungen bei Flachwasser brauchen um ein Fazit abzugeben. Der gestrige Test war aber schonmal vielversprechend. Leichte Strömung 15-20km/h Wind bei 1Grad Außentemperatur sind aber keine idealen Bedingungen um das Speedpotenzial zu bewerten. Dranbleiben, bis Neujahr sollten sich noch ein paar Ausfahrten ausgehen bei hoffentlich Windststille und geringer Strömung.

😅 Das Cap hab ich bei Hatstore machen lassen… haben eine schier unendliche Auswahl 👍🏻

Das wird auch der Grund sein, warum das Turnen bei mir immer Ende Sommer richtig gut klappt, bis dann Herbst, Winter, Frühling gefühlt jeden Fortschritt zerstören 😅🤗

That’s not the only problem ;-) Lots of room for improvements. I‘m currently in turkey at sportscamps and I had the chance to test the Signature 23,85! Crazy fast board but I‘ll stay with the 24,75 as I have to use it in various conditions. I totally love the Signature, effortless glide and great turning abilities.

@@daveisteineblume Thanx, is it fast ? my average speed is 8.9kmh with the Sunova, I don't want to loose speed ;)

@@murmure1003 depends on your abilities, I‘m also in the 8,8-9,1kph range. Here in the camp many paddlers were able to hit average speeds of 9,6-9,9kph with the Signature.

The Sound? 😂

I bought them couple of years ago each about 1800€. It’s successor is the PB4000, mostly the same with an upgraded amplifier and additional tweaking options.

Not a fake, just a good long throw Subwoofer with lots of Subbass Capabilities