Відео

@@RustyShackleford5_4_2 unless you’re throwing a code for a bad ignition coil I’d leave them alone, a stock replacement coil is not cheap. If they’re good I’d reuse them.

Outstanding glad it’s helpful for you! It’s odd for some people the audio is ok and others it’s garbage. I played it back on my PC and it sounds ok, choppy in a few spots and with wind noise but not horrible. Appreciate the view and comment!

Wow $1400 for plugs that’s ridiculous! Thank you for the view and comment.

Yeah sorry about that I didn’t realize it until after I did the recording, fail on my part. Appreciate you attempting to watch though!

Right on that’s awesome! Thank you for the comment and view!

@@wrenchops719 No seriously, thank you! It cost me $8 for the tape! I’ve been driving around bumps slowly, backing over speed bumps just for fun. Ha

@chadmanl2121 I’m glad that worked out for you! I did the modification to mine and put about 22k on it with no issues up until I sold it last November. I have a set of plans drawn up I was going to have delrin spacer machined for a more permanent and factory looking fox however the foam tape continued to work fine even after a Colorado winter so I didn’t bother.

Chemical guys honeydew snow.

@@wrenchops719 thank you.

If I recall the 15mm bolts are 38 ft/lbs, 12mm bolts are 21 ft/lbs and the tow hook bolts are 43 ft/lbs. I highly recommend verifying these values and do your own research.

They did eventually. I should have packed the pump first with petroleum grease/jelly to speed up the priming process.

@@wrenchops719 Thanks. It Looks like the one in the middle didn't fill up as high as the others. Is that normal?

They should be all consistent when filling, figure the length the oil travel within the galleys so the timing might not be exact. Other factor is this engine was used so could have some sludge within the galleys causing a slower oil delivery. It’s not on video but I primer this engine again 24hrs later to ensure the oil was properly being distributed in a quick manner which it was, within no less than two seconds all the rockers were were full and great pressure.

Those were probably burner phones!

Would be neat to see! Maybe in a few weeks

Thank you!

Once it primed it was good. I should have known better and packed it with Vaseline to build suction but I didn’t want to pull it apart. Pump works great though, engine fires up with great pressure right away.

@@wrenchops719 That was my experience with used engines, never had it happen with a rebuilt . Used to run a salvage and service yard so I've done 100s of them.

@mountainmonk5874 the 4.0 has been acting up. Later this summer I’ll probably do a full rebuild on it. I think I have a cam lope that’s flat, new rockers, push rods and lifters it’s make a decent valve train noise which is rpm consistent. I’m in Louisiana for the next few months with work which is killing my upload consistency.

@@wrenchops719 How is the oil pressure? If it's not good I'd say park it until you resolve it.

@mountainmonk5874 oil pressure is spot on even on a cold start, goes to 55psi then to 40psi when hot. I sent my endoscope down the head to the cam and the intake side on #3 piston is in bad shape. It’s scored pretty bad. I took a gamble on the used engine so it’s no surprise to me.

Right on! I go through springer about four times a year, nice little town for sure!

Ha, it’s quite common unfortunately. Several people I know with tundras have gone to the dealerships with no luck. It’s a messed up problem and no one can honestly come out and say it’s a problem needs to be addressed

Valid points thanks for the comments.

Doing absolutely phenomenal, no issues with the sockets flexing or wearing, the ratchet is still smooth as if it were new.

@@wrenchops719that’s awesome I bought this set and the 3/8th 73 piece set you’re right they’re top quality sockets!

Wasn’t worth the additional dollar ten per plug, denso makes a good unit.

Stick with OE

.043

Great question however I’m not 100% certain and I don’t want to give you the wrong answer. If the #1 piston is at TDC I’m going to assume the lobes would almost be in a neutral position with no load. I’ll see if I can make another video down the road as I’m building a stroker engine next summer with a new camshaft.

Cool. I think that the valve positions have some bearing on TDC. Doing mine tomorrow. I'll let you know what I come up with. @@wrenchops719

You're right. Both valves closed and lifters dead even. @@wrenchops719

It’s my quick goto in the garage, absolutely love the quality and feel. Thank you for the view and comment!

Thanks man, 100% agree. Need to use my mic on future projects. Appreciate the watch and comment!

Yeah sorry about that, iPhone doesn’t pickup my voice really well when working outside the garage unfortunately.

I’m assuming you’re asking about a 120 tooth set?

I recall someone talking about that a few years ago and it was mentioned that the head of one of the ratchets is machined deeper than the other to receive a taller ratchet mechanism...so, no, they are not interchangeable.

I looked in the owners manual and it called for 0.043IN. I had to adjust two of them out of the box.

Yeah unfortunately my iPhone doesn’t pick up my voice unless I’m extremely close to it.

Thank you!

the audio turned out bad in this session unfortunately. Working with a new setup soon and editing software just need to learn all the features.

Thank you! That’s the girl friend’s favorite color.

Ha, I appreciate it! Thank you again for the views and comments!

Exactly same noise!!!

Completely agree, I bought mine last year used and when I pulled into my driveway & heard it creak I was like great what’s that noise!?

@@wrenchops719 At least thanks god this is kind of something easy and not too complicated. Again, thank you for this video. At least in case dealership refuses to fix it, it can be done ourselves. My Tundra 2021 used to have other terrible sound each time I added acceleration, there was some rattling noise in the engine bay. It was killing me since the moment it was new. Finally, I took my courage into a fist and went to dealer for them to figure it out. They even did not want to admit it there was some issue when finally their main technical specialist confirmed it. It took them 2 days or 16 hours of work to figure the cause and fix it. So under the dash there are air ducts and other wiring which was not properly attached at the factory, so when I pressed the accelerator due to the vibration those plastic ducts touch and rub against each that caused the terrible rattling noise. Whenever the problem is under the dash, it always takes lots of time to get there. I wonder how much they would charge me if I waited more time and my warranty expired. Those Toyotas are made pretty cheap these days and quality control drops significantly year after year.

I had the exact same issue you described on my 2008 tundra I had & it drove me insane! Only on acceleration as well, I went to the dealership a half dozen times and they could never figure it out. I’ll keep this one it’s been a great rig so far just unfortunate it has some quirks.

@@wrenchops719 it is a bit shame to pay such money for a vehicle and then have ridiculous issues like this. If they cannot attach the protector shield properly, what about the other more sophisticated stuff, should we worry about that as well, hahaha?!

The audio wasn’t working??

@@wrenchops719 yes. Very low

Well shoot, still figuring out the best ways to record. I’m just using my phone, I’ll upgrade soon with a different setup and mic.

@@wrenchops719 sound good thanks

I agree, typically have done that in the past on other engines, decided just to skip it on this one. Thanks for the view and comment!

I have on SBF and SBC & it works great, didn’t feel like taking the pump cover off to pack it n this one. Thanks for the view & comment!

If you mark and document the orientation of the camshaft synchronizer both the base and hall affect sensor you should be completely fine to drop it right back in without having to put cylinder 1 at TDC. You’re on the right track though just need to keep the sensor assembly in sync if you pull it. Thank you for the view and comment, do appreciate it!

Most welcome! Thank you for the view and comment! If you have any issues let me know.

Thanks again, That’s exactly what the problem was, so quiet now..👍

Outstanding great to hear you had success!

I think you’ll be just fine, eventually parts where out however with quality oil and maintenance schedule like you have you should be able to hit 300k at least. You might have a weak oil pump if it’s the original with 261k I sit about 35psi at a hot idle and fluctuates to 60 under a load. Rotella, amsoil, Castrol, all good oils and I personally use them all with a mobile one extended guard filter. Thank you for the view and comment!

@@wrenchops719 awesome advice! Thank you for the reply!