Відео

I think for the money they do the job. Agreed there are better out there but for under £30 not bad at all!

Because it shouldn’t. Only time that would happen is if A. You don’t put it in maintenance mode and leave hand brake on. Or B. You press the brake pedal with the pads out

Thank you! So I used 3 bottles of black for the lower half and the upper above the windscreen with a light dusting for the roof and 12 bottles of the tintable stuff with just over 1l of paint

Thanks ☺️

No, I’m working on it I got a copyright flag whilst using Supposably copyright free track 🙄

Google s new BullShit AI strikes again 🙄

Tell me about it!

I think this one is just a little too high, I agree with you I still will keep a reasonable garage area tho, thanks for commenting 😀

I didn’t keep the car for too long after but it was going strong

Yea haven’t gotten round to it 🤣

Yea really was! Wouldn’t have been so bad if every panel didn’t have a dent in 🤣

Thanks man! Glad I could help and thanks for advise in future (hopefully won’t need to do it again 🤣)

I believe it should be a yellow, black and white wire from memory.. was a while ago now tho! 😅

No, it doesn’t really change anyhing just blocks the flaps up. Asking as you keep the electrical component plugged in the car thinks they are still there

P0299 is low boost pressure. Sounds like a hose has either split or popped off

@@TrackAndBeyond Is it possible to be from this black hose, it's very oiled on my visual check today.

​@@ivanpetrov2280if you're still looking for the issue I had similar before my turbo went out, follow intake pipes after the turbo, to the throttle body and make sure they're not slipping off at boost. We had the serpentine belt replaced and the dealer failed to tighten the clamps on the short pipe near the throttle body 😅

@@shaunclaudemichael8127 Hi mate. I believe the issue come from the cooler pipe which is connected to the turbo, there was black dirt and little oiled , clear sign for air leak. Today i was in the local Jaguar dealer in Erdington for exhaust damper. I ask them for this cooler pipe seal, but the Dealer told me they sell the whole pipe only. That pipe is plastic with metal end and clip holder for the turbo. Hah i don't need the whole pipe just one litle ring seal that is. But this is how people want to make money. When i was abroad i just pull out the seal from the pipe bed and lifted on the top. Turbo have cone shape and when i put it back seal the thing better but this is temp solution, till i find better rubber for this place. Any way the EGR filter was completely block so i get the opportunity to clean it when i mess with turbo-cooler pipe. Good thing is that all 3 codes dissappear from pc and check light off. Now i need to fight the strong exhaust-engine-body vibration(Damper)

Engine mounts will be the cause of the vibration

I would say that is a bit expensive. A manufacturer turbo is around £450-£500 and in my opinion should only be around 4/5 hour labour not sure what the going rate is on labour but even at £100 an hour your looking at £1000. I’d expect about £1200/1300 for a turbo replacement on one of these. I’m not hooking when I say that these are a really simple turbo change

@TrackAndBeyond thanks for the quick response ,so it's about 500 quid too much you'd say ?

@jonbrookes6188 in my opinion yea

@@TrackAndBeyond thanks

3,500 is a little too soon for me but defo decrease the service interval from the stated 25k is a no brainer

Your welcome 😀

Yea still the same vehicle should still have all the same chassis holes 👍🏻

Thanks man, yea decent ones are becoming thin on the ground for sure p

17mm I think off the top of my head, I normally buy the pack of 3 spark plug sockets and you’ve covered all bases

Yea I filled it 5l as it’s half way for the tank and saves overfilling which can cause issues. depending on the model there are 2 different tank sizes one at 9l and one at 18l I believe. I

Thanks 😀

Yea if it’s low just top it up, put 3l in I believe is the standard top up. What year is your XE? I believe 2017 onwards there is an option to see the gauge for DEF.

Yea if you removed the downpipe from the turbo I can’t see why you couldn’t remove the head with manifold and turbo still attached, their is only 3 or 4 bolts holding the turbo to the manifold so you could infact split the turbo off the manifold aswell and just bring the head with exhaust manifold still attached

@@TrackAndBeyond the 3 bolts that hold turbo onto manifold, one head has sheared, so can’t get the e14 torx bit to grip, this is why I’m asking can I remove all with the head by just undoing the 3 nuts on down pipe 👍

@user-lu8fr9hv8y got ya, yea I can’t see a recon why not, may just be fiddly trying to remove it and will be heavy 😝

@@TrackAndBeyond yeah notice grey pipes near the turbo, hopefully they won’t get in the way, I’m just cutting the timing belt rather than lining all up before I remove, timing can be done after

@user-lu8fr9hv8y yea cutting it is a good shout done that before as you say can be done after

Did it resolve the issue ?

@@alrajiahmed5906 it did yes

@@alrajiahmed5906 it did yes

To be Honest these are quite easy to work on and best thing I find is learn by doing. There’s plenty of guides and info out there to help Google in your friend 😆

Only if you have the low pad warning on the dash

Yep! This was a bad one I don’t understand how either I was so shocked seeing everything wrong with it

Not powerful enough, plus not enough gallons/liters per minute.

Hope it goes well, good luck ✌🏻

@@TrackAndBeyond Thank you! The hardest part is making the time to do either one. Will get radiator first.

Thanks man! Still not finished yet it keeps getting put back to the like of projects 🙈

This was a long while ago take a look at the video before hand it shows how I removed it I think you can lock the fuel pump

I couldn't find the last video ​@@TrackAndBeyond

@deceaton7495 ua-cam.com/video/Y9Y1NHmUKQI/v-deo.htmlsi=RJ7ETkWvnP39jB7e Iv just watched it and yea you do take the fuel pump off

Been a while but I believe this is what I used: Caliper Bolts - Specification: 115 Nm Caliper Guide Pins - 58 Nm

FWD Bud

Here’s the link bud: ebay.us/blYvtQ just so you know when you delete the EGR in these they either need mapping out or you’ll have the EML on

Brilliant thank you i definitely need my swil flaps deleting might as well do egr at the time but loved the video was so easy to follow (that's coming from someone with no macanincal experience)

@deceaton7495 thank you 😄 that’s what inter to achieve so glad I can help!

Mine felt ok never had any complaints to be honest

Thanks for the reply 👍

I have done the same multiple times which was why this was su ch a big suprise

The sad truth 🤣

​@@TrackAndBeyondIs it the truth?? I am thinking about buying sport rs 172 with a crankshaft damage 230000 km, I could pay like $600 to fix it, but I need to be it reliable, am I delusional?

Could I do a K swap or something like that?

Not for $600 no way on either option dude

@@TrackAndBeyond I see, if it's fixed it's still unreal right?

Thanks pal! 😀

So these engines have floating sprockets so when the bottom pulley is undone the crank sprocket can spin on the crankshaft freely. Because the crank sprocket doesn’t have a key way, when you do up the bottom pulley on to the crank sprocket it keeps it in place. You can buy aftermarket crankshaft sprocket that has a key way which would have dropped the engine smashing itself to bits. Hope that makes sense

@@TrackAndBeyondA keyed pulley won't save you if the crank bolt comes out

@jamesbryan88 could have obviously if the crank cog managed to stay in situe. If the bolt came out and cog came off aswell then still would have had the same result yea

@@TrackAndBeyonddid you find the bolt afterwards?

@jamesbryan88 no I walked to Road but I couldn’t find it 🤣🤦🏻‍♂️

Thank you appreciate it 😄