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Pt5 is on the channel bud, have a look through our shorts, should be there 👍

Probably a good idea to have it on unless you're looking for something during testing in safe conditions. Any debris getting in could damage the engine and you'll probably get a lot of oil coming out. Is there a reason you want to run it without?

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys is because I bought a new cylinder head and is missing the cover. I tried turn it on and still won’t turn on

Your ratio with those teeth is 5:1 which will mean high torque and high acceleration. If you make your rear bigger, you will gain more acceleration, but less top speed, and if you make it smaller you will gain a higher top speed and lose acceleration. The opposite will happen changing the front. Smaller will mean more acceleration, larger will mean more top speed. 15 front and 60 rear would be 4:1, you could give that a go.

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys Thank you so much. And also thank you for responding have a great day.

What setup are you running at the moment? How many teeth front and rear? To get a higher top end you could reduce teeth on the back to get a lower ratio. When you use gearing to increase top speed you will always lose acceleration.

Nice work bud! Sounds like your mixture screw might not be set quite right. Might be worth giving that a tweak so see if it improves 👍

Is that the little cover up the top end of the engine? There's a bolt which comes through from the opposite side of the head and screws into the back of the plate. Be careful not to overtighten it when you put it back on. Those plates can crack quite easily, but luckily they don't cost too much to replace!

We don't have a WhatsApp for the channel, we can probably help you out on here though. What problems are you having?

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys when i put my bike in first gear thn it dies

Is that as soon as it goes in gear whilst you've still got the clutch in or when you try to engage the clutch and pull away?

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys as soon as i go in gear while the cludge is still in

What bike have you got? Is there a neutral indicator on the dash?

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare. Clicking top end would likely be valve clearance rather than timing. We would recommend setting the timing chain back to where it was on the timing sprocket and then setting the inlet and outlet valve clearances as they can work loose after new engines are worn in. We set our clearances to 4 thou on the inlet and 6 thou on the outlet, but your engine may have different specs. Check the manufacturer specs and you'll need feelers gauges and a valve adjuster/locking tool. Let us know how you get on 👍

Have you got fuel flowing out of the line when you take it off the carb? If you have, and it's not filling the carb bowl, then you might have a problem with the float in the carb sticking. If you can't get fuel to flow out the line there's a few things you can check for blockages. Let us know, happy to help 👍

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys fuel is coming out of the line but not into the carb . We took it apart for the first time today and the carb looked almost brand new . Hope I explained this well enough 👍🏽

We've got a few videos on cleaning carbs if that helps? We use an ultrasonic cleaner which does a pretty good job of shaking any blockages loose. We usually strip them down fully and check the inlet and jets are clear using compressed air. Sometimes flings a bit out, but if something is clogged you could use a very thin bit of steel wire to gently free it up.

Also check the float mechanism isn't sticking. It should drop away from the inlet freely, if it catches at all you might need to check the pin and plate holding the plug.

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys thanks a lot mate . I’m going to have another go in the next few days . If there’s no luck I’ll order a new carb and filter and hopefully that sorts it ✅

Sorry for the slow reply, it's a DNM Hornet, think it was the 295mm, but they do a few sizes depending on what you want/need. No idea where we purchased it from, was a while ago now!

Honestly can't remember what they were specifically. Take a look at pitbikeparts co uk, they've got a few options on there, including DNM Hornets if you wanted to match the rear. Hope that helps 👍

Sorry for the crazy slow reply, did you manage to get sorted?

and how much

This is a fairly generic carb, we always recommend looking for specific settings for yours if you can identify a make/model. DRZ 125 is four stroke (I think) so same principals apply. Every bike and engine is unique after being ridden for years, so you will need to fine tune it to get it running sweet. Hope that helps!

Hi Jason, glad you enjoyed the video. We've got a longer up on the main channel going through timing which may be helpful. Were you trying to get more pops out your exhaust? 😁 I doubt you will have done any permanent or expensive damage. If the timing is off, just make sure you don't run it as you could smash the valves into the piston. The flywheel itself will generally only lock in one position on the shaft, the timing adjustments should be done with the timing chain on the sprocket on the side of the head. Does that make sense? As long as the timing marks on the flywheel and head sprocket line up at the same time and then again after two full rotations of the flywheel, you should be golden! Hope that helps bud! Let us know how you get on.

Sorry for the slow reply! The carb we were adjusting was on a stomp 125 pit bike so will hopefully be similar. That said, every carb and engine is unique, you will likely need to fine tune the settings once you've got it running ok so you get the best settings for your bike. Hope that helps bud!

Sorry to hear that Zander. Every bike/carb combo is different. You'll need to tune yours to your bike. You having problems with it running right?

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys I can’t get it to start

Incase anyone else is like me and found it to not work I also had to fix other things. 1. Replaced spark plug 2. Make sure fuel is on lmao 3.new air filter 4.fuel screw 1.5 turns, air screw all the way out 5.turned air screw in half a turn until it wanted to start this was at the fully seated position. 6. Turned fuel screw to 2 turns out 7. Did fine adjustments as needed I also tried the choke on and off for each try just incase it was due to it being a cold engine

Did you manage to get her running right in the end? Thanks for sharing the other stages you went through. Sounds like you're being very thorough 👍

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys yes she runs good now

Hey Potatis! Sounds like you've checked the most important bits, we have had it before where the spark wasn't strong enough and a new plug got us running again. The chain snapping can send a bit of a shock through the engine depending how violent it was. Have you removed the flywheel cover to check inside for damage? Whilst you've got that open we'd recommend checking the timing chain and sprocket are all aligned, could also go as far as to check the valve spacing as well. Hope that helps. Let us know if you have more questions!

Hey bud, sorry for the slow reply! Have you managed to get it running any better? If your idle is too high when you're not applying any throttle, you could try unscrewing the idle screw to bring it back down. If you think the throttle is stuck there are a few places that can happen. The throttle slider in the carb might be stuck and not dropping all the way back down, the throttle grip could be getting stuck on the bars, or maybe even the throttle cable is jammed or damaged. Does that help at all?

You can adjust the height of the needle to allow more or less fuel through the carb. Setting it too low could restrict fuel too much. Have you adjusted yours or are you just having issues starting?

We had a viewer do exactly that only a couple of weeks back 😂🙈 poor lad, he's going for a full top end rebuild now.

Hey AK! Sorry for the slow reply! Yes it's the trellis frame and subframe. We bought the one in the video used and it came with a forks kit. Are you buying it all new? Pitbikeparts co uk sell both the frames and fork kits, they would be able to make sure you're buying parts that will fit together. I've got the 730mm (770mm) on my CRF70 and I'm riding on 17" front / 14" rear wheels which are SDG fitment. Hope that helps!

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys yeah I gonna get one for my full mod crf70 build thanks

@ak_beast_509 nice, hope it goes well!

Hey Jaymel, have you wound in the idle screw at all? Also is this when engine is cold? If you have a choke it should help get you running and warm the engine up before you get the idle set right.

@@MoonshineNaughtyBoys thanks sir