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I wouldn't despair 1marcelfilms, although I didn't immediately fall in love with the look of NC500, when I reviewed my photo album a few months later (in which I print out a few of the best shots from each film), my favourite shots from the whole of last year were on NC500, so although not every shot on the film was good, when it was good, it was really good. I've shot a second roll, which I rated at 200 ISO in the hopes that I get less of the really depressing looking shots, but that film hasn't gone to the lab yet. I've also bought two more rolls, so I'll keep on experimenting.

Hi Jackie, I don't suppose you have a multi meter so you can check to see exactly how much current the radio is drawing while turned off. In theory the on off switch should cut the power to the radio completely, so either the switch is somehow still letting power get to part of the circuit while turned off, or someone has done a repair at some time that partly bypasses the switch......but thinking about it, if there's any sign of old battery leakage like my radio had, there could be some rusty mess on the circuit board that's conductive, not enough to stop the radio from working, but enough to drain power when switched off. Probably a good idea to have a quick look for dirt/rust/battery electrolyte on the circuit board. Are you using the big PP9 battery, or are you substituting a small PP3? my guess is that a PP3 won't last very long. For what it's worth, I haven't turned mine on for about a year - just tried it and it's working fine, so if you can track down whatever is ailing yours, you should have a nice little radio in the end.

@@GrumpyTimthanks, I’m temporarily using smaller pp3, but there’s definitely some kind of energy leak after turning it of, because sometimes I can hear hum in the speaker. It doesn’t happen all the time, but occasionally it comes alive like this.

Hi Jackie, yeah, there's definitely something funny happening there - if I get a chance I'll take a look at mine sometime to see if the switch is a multi pole switch that isn't turning off one side - it might be cutting power from the tuner but leaving the amp powered or something like that.

Cheers Rog, hopefully your Contaflex will be as good as described, they're a cracking camera. You're right, collection and using classic cameras is highly addictive - I've just got a couple of new arrivals to check over, and repair if necessary, before heading out with film in them.

Hi Kenneth, I think all makes of camera can suffer from reliability issues at times, and there's bound to be people out there who had issues with the Yashica FR cameras, but I'm definitely a fan of them. Glad your FR served you well.

Hi Alastair, there must be plenty of vintage camera repairers in the UK, but I've never had the need to seek them out, so I don't personally know of any, good or bad. I do occasionally repair cameras for other people, but I'm not a professional repairer and can give no guarantee of success, and in the case of one camera that I'm doing for someone, I started work on it but it was being awkward, so it keeps getting put to one side in favour of other jobs (I've had it since January!). Feel free to email me if you can't find anyone - you'll find the email address in the "about" tab of my channel.

Hi Tester, for the smaller holes I use a set of cheap punches (anything up to about 15mm diameter), and for the bigger holes I use a Olfa compass cutter. I just use scissors for the outer shape. If I'm cutting something tougher, like head gasket material, I place the gasket on a block of wood and use chisels (curved and straight) - many tiny cuts to make a circle, but it does the job.

@@GrumpyTim thanks for that - painstaking, but worth it, as that gasket looks perfect.

Hi Bob, I actually like the Kiev more than you might think from my video, it just wasn't quite as brilliant as some people seem to say. I love my Zorkis and I've just got a Fed 4, which was in a pretty sorry state when I got it, but it's now got film in and I'm loving using it. Compared to the Kiev, the Fed is a joy to work on, and everything fits, unlike the Kiev. The second roll was already in the Kiev when I got the first roll processed so I wasn't able to address the light leak for film 2, but, light leak aside, I was much happier with roll 2 - I'd pushed the film one stop, plus it was shot in spring rather than winter, so there was more daylight anyway - that allowed me to stop down a bit more and the results are great. The third film is now at the lab, so I'll see if I've managed to cure the light leak, or if it's going to be back on the workbench for more attention.

Cheers Joseph, I must get round to watching your Tractor Fest video soon, because that one will be great.

@@GrumpyTim Take your time to enjoy.

Hi Moriah, there should be adaptors available for most mirrorless digital cameras, ie M42 to Sony or M42 to Micro 4/3. It can be more tricky if you're trying to fit it to a traditional DSLR, because in some cases (Nikon) you won't be able to focus to infinity, and I believe the back of certain lenses can hit the mirror when adapted to mount on a Canon full frame DSLR. It's possible that Chinon also produced this lens in other mounts such as Pentax PK bayonet (for the later Pentax cameras), in which case you'd need the appropriate mount adaptor to adapt it to a mirrorless digital camera. If you're talking film cameras, then this lens will fit on any M42 screw mount camera such as the Pentax Spotmatic or countless Praktica cameras like the LTL and so on (not the B series Prakticas such as the BCA - those are all bayonet mount).

Hi Michael, that will be exciting getting your J5 back from the repair shop - I need to fix mine sometime so I can use it again - I wouldn't have had the skill/knowledge when I was a kid, but I should be able to tackle it now.

Wow, that would have been very exciting Mike, if I could travel back in time I would have loved one of those, maybe slightly second hand in the early 80s.

I'm sure I'll end up getting myself a Minister D one of these days - I have a few Yashicas in the collection already, but there's always space for one more!!!

I always regard Nylon as un glueable, but on the odd occasion that I do have to glue it, I always make the surface as rough as possible to increase the chances of success. I haven't tried an adhesion promoter, I might get some one day. I can't believe how well my dramatic reconstruction repair worked - still haven't managed to get it apart!

@GrumpyTim Nylon and similar plastics are near impossible to bond because of low surface energy. That's where the adhesion promoter helps. I'm impressed that your repair has held up. I'd probably try to source a little brass pinion or have one 3-D printed out of polycarbonate.

Hi Linjica, based on that, I'm glad that I've never tried Portra!!! Weirdly, although I didn't immediately fall in love with NC500, since then I've printed my favourite shots from the roll and popped them in a photo album (as I do with each film), and flicking through the album, the shots taken on NC500 are my favourite of the lot, so when you (I) get it right, it's a really good film. Just finished the second roll, so I'll see what results I get with that. I've also got a couple more rolls in stock for more gritty fun.

Hi Conrad, Yep, I know what you mean, there's a few formats I'm avoiding simply because I don't need yet another lens system. I initially got a 24mm Contax/Yashica bayonet lens because I wanted a 24mm to use on mirrorless, and it was cheaper getting the C/Y mount lens and an adapter than getting a 24mm in the other mounts that I already had. Then I figured I'd get a couple more lenses to use with the adapter, and from there getting a Yashica camera body seemed logical........and so it continues.

I found some old school books a few weeks ago, and there inside one of them was an old spirit duplicated sheet of teacher's notes - the smell had long gone but all of the feintness was still there!!!

Excellent, hope you have fun using the lens No. 7054

@@GrumpyTim I sure have! I dressed in my safari hat and walked about a park with the gun stock, and I only received a few odd looks, ha-ha. By the way, thanks for the part two too! It was also quite informative. Thanks again!

Ha ha, I'm sure people would pay to see you in your safari hat!!!

Hi David, hopefully I'm making some progress with the Kiev - I've just taken the third roll of film into the lab so I'll see if I've managed to cure the light leaks now. I was happier with the second roll of film (apart from light leaks) - slightly faster film and more daylight meant that I could stop the Jupiter 8M down a bit, which produced much more satisfying results. I was fixing a rather battered old Fed 4 last week - everything just fitted together better than the Kiev and it was much nicer to work on, but I still like the Kiev, so I'll keep on using it and attending to any issues as they arise.

Hi Virgil, if the fuel is leaking out of the carb when you turn the fuel on, that does sound like the fuel isn't shutting off when the float chamber is full (unless the drain plug at the bottom of the float chamber is missing or isn't sealing properly - that is assuming that carb has a drain plug, some do and some don't). Additionally, it could also be the petrol feed pipe that's split where it attaches to the carb - sometimes the petrol tracks round the carb, seeming like it's coming from somewhere else. Assuming that it is the float not shutting off the petrol when the float chamber is full, it could be that the float is sticking - probably unlikely, unless the metal pin that forms the pivot is damaged in some way. It could be that the seat for the needle has been damaged or has some grit on the surface that's preventing the needle from sealing the hole. Most likely is that the needle itself is damaged or worn out - some of the modern carbs have a little rubberised section at the tip which might have been damaged or has lost it's elasticity. If you take the carb off, and with the float chamber removed but the float and needle in place, blow through the petrol inlet and then move the float to close the valve - it should need very little pressure - it should seal completely, if it's letting any air through, then it's definitely going to let fuel through.

@@GrumpyTim thank you for the reply! Especially from the time past! Will give it a go tomorrow, following your excellent video! Thanks again, and have a good evening!

Cheers ohjajohh, I think my videos back then were even clunkier than they are these days - still haven't perfected the art of speaking!!!! I'm really enjoying using the Phoenix film, it's not perfect but I kind of like how it looks - it's a bit like when someone first gets hold of photoshop and tweaks all the sliders to get a really contrasty image.

Yeah it's a quirky little beast Ben, but very good all the same.

Yep, it's 46mm, although it's an external push fit cap rather than the more common internal type that clip onto the filter threads. It's a tiny little lens on the Miranda, compared to modern stuff anyway.

@@GrumpyTim Cheers, appreciated.

Coo, that's interesting David, I'd love to travel back in time and see the factory in operation.

Hi Tina, cheers I'll keep that in mind. Glad to hear that you're using and repairing unloved old furniture, it's very ecologically sound, aside from the fact that it saves lots of money too.

Hi Mno Liberal, I would think that if your Kiev is ok now, it'll probably stay that way - I have a hunch that my copy might have leaked from the day it left the factory - it would explain why it didn't look like it had been used much. Hopefully the latest work I've done will sort the problem, but if it persists, I'll just have to do a bit more work on it.

Hi Jose, I think even English people laugh at how I speak, so I must sound really weird to anyone from overseas!!!

Hi Monty, it could be that the AM tuner section is ker-put on your radio, or at least not working as it should. I guess if you can raid something else for a suitable speaker that you could transplant, I can't remember if it's an 8 ohm or 4 ohm speaker (or even something other than that). When I was a kid I used to just try whatever speaker I could find and if it worked, then I used it - I didn't get bogged down with things like the correct resistance and so on.

I've no idea how good these 3D printed mount adapters are David, but there are some sold on EBAY, search for "Kiev RF to Sony E Mount Adapter" - they do have a focusing helicoid but again it's 3D printed so I'd bet that the adjustment isn't very fine. There are also still people selling adapters like mine that use the actual focusing helicoid from a Kiev camera, grafted onto another adapter to fit the Sony, but those are more expensive.

The method is a little unorthodox Paul, but it worked and it so who am I to criticise. Excellent job, that's another one rescued.

Cheers Michal, someone else had also suggested a few alternative lenses including the Helios 103 - I'll keep my eyes peeled for something else, although I've enjoyed the Jupiter 8M more on the second roll of film - slightly faster film and more daylight allowed me to stop down a bit more, and the 8M performed much better like that. There seem to be loads of late model Helios 103 lenses on ebay at the moment, but no idea how good those are compared to earlier versions.

I agree, bang for buck F301 is one of the best camera's I've ever owned and used, even though mine only lasted 38 years! My earliest Nikon AF camera was an F100, which for the first few months I only ever shot in MF......I found my MF technique was quicker than the F100 AF, though that probably had something to do with how I'd set up the AF in camera. It took me a while to understand AF modes. Anyway, at some point I got lazy and switched to AF, then I got annoyed that I'd done that, and that I was relying so much on automation, so I went and bought another MF camera, an FM3a, which I don't regret now, its my favourite camera, but at the time it was just a case of GAS. Some of my best pictures were taken with the F301.

I only really shoot my F-501 as manual focus anyway, but I wanted a fully working example just to experience the AF system for myself. I think the F-301 or F-501 are brilliant cameras, I'm using mine lots - it's very 1980s but extremely usable at the same time. I've also got a Canon T-50 in my collection, that camera is very clunky, both audibly and functionally. My brother has a few of the Canon T series from the 80s, they're all a bit quirky whereas Nikon got the F-301/F-501 just right. I've also got a Minolta 7000, that one is even more 1980s with all those push buttons - the user interface is a little fiddly but other than that it works just fine.

Not as magic as your hands for old engines Joseph. Cheers for watching.

@@GrumpyTim ohh thanks mate

Funny you should say that ohjajohh, one time a lady proudly told me about the shooting star she'd managed to photograph at a location that I photographed regularly - I didn't have the heart to tell her that it was lensflare from a bright light directly opposite, and that I usually cloned it out when I couldn't avoid getting the flare in the shot!!!

Hi John, that would be Isopropyl Alcohol, sometimes known as Isopropanol and not India Pale Ale, which is something completely different altogether!!!

India Pale Ale sounds more interesting, 😜👍😂

Maybe the trick is to treat yourself to an India Pale Ale once you've finished using the Isopropanol on the camera/lens!!!

My older 4A has an extra baffle. They are lost sometimes. Though i don't know if there is the same baffle in newer Kiev4 models. You can see that baffle at 2.38 of my video on a 4A.

It's definitely worth checking that the extra baffle that chrisdowntherabbithole mentions is in place - I know these sometimes get ripped out when people try to repair these cameras - mine is there but I suspect that it isn't doing it's job very well because a lot of torch light can get into that gearbox area above the film drive sprocket.

Hi Chris, I'd watched your Kiev 4A video just before (or just after) I got my Kiev, it was good to see how stuff fitted together. Mine does have the baffle behind the rangefinder, but I'm thinking that it might either be fitted incorrectly, or damaged, or maybe just badly cut when it was made, because the amount of torch light that can get into that gearbox area above the sprocket is a bit of a surprise. I'll probably take the thing apart again once I've finished the current film and have another look.

Cheers Ben, hopefully I'll rattle through the colour film fairly quickly and then I'll know whether the fix has been successful or not - I would say that I'm confident, but I'm really not! I already have another couple of things to check next time I take it apart - I'll pay more attention to the baffle (that I didn't show) behind the rangefinder mirror - it is there, but it could be badly fitted, badly cut or damaged, because I was surprised at just how much light was able to get into that gear section of the camera.

@@GrumpyTim Some of the stuff from the USSR was shocking!

Yeah, that does appear to be the case at times, but it's still intriguing to see it all the same.

People on russian websites say to only look for Kievs made before 1965 - their build quality is much more consistently good.

@@ka4estvo Interesting information.

Hi Alisdair, yes I've still got the 3D file for the mount adapter, you should find an email address to contact me in the "about" tab of my channel.

Hi Eric, I'd have to persuade my brother (who did most of the technical stuff) to collaborate in that video, but maybe it'll happen one day. The actual physical stand and so on is a piece of cake, I just used whatever materials I had to hand and knocked something up in the shed!!!

Hi Wade, that's great to hear. I always find it easier taking something apart if I've seen someone else do the job first (or at least something similar) rather than just reading an instruction manual or something like that. Hope you have lots of fun using your Monroe.

Cheers worldadventuretravel, I used to really enjoy making videos like this, but somehow there just isn't the time lately.......maybe one day.... Thanks for the comment.

Hi Mno Liberal, I haven't got round to working on my Sensorex yet - too many other projects, but the Automex III is still working nicely. I've also got a Sensomat which I've mostly fixed, just one job left to do on that one and then I can use it. Glad you like your Mirandas.

Hi Paul, yes the Hamann Manus is a nice thing to have around, but there again, there are so many nice machines out there it's difficult to have them all, and I've definitely run out of space now!!!

@@GrumpyTim I own around 15 and around ten come into the very small industrial museum in my hometown. I currently negotiate with the museum chef. so hopefully these are on a own display at the museum in future and i look after them and oil and clean them twice a year.

Hi Paul, that sounds really good - if they're in a museum then more people get to see and appreciate them, but then you still get to play with them from time to time as well.

Hi worldadventuretravel, I haven't shot any videos like this one for a while, they were always fun to make but I'm not sure how many people wanted to watch non commentary videos like this - not on my channel at any rate. You'll be glad to hear that the stool is still is still standing strong, although it's become more of a place to pile stuff that something to sit on!!!