Matt your video is just what i was looking for, is there any way icould get a parts list, i have a jenny K15A-8P with a KU pump it is set up just like yours before the conversation. It also has a Marathon 1 1/2 hp motor. The big problum is when i got it the start & run capacitors where missing. I was able to track down the right capacitors for it but i cant find a wiring diagram for it anywhere, i need it because they also removed the wire nuts on the groups of wires in the box on the motor. If you could help it would be much appreciated thank you.
Great information on the valve to switch the motor to on and off. All these years I didn't know I could switch out of the constant run position. Thank you!!
About 20 years ago I bought a new Emglo 2HP dual voltage wheelbarrow style compressor with a 20 Gal tank. Maybe it’s a K15A-17A but I was told it had a 20 Gal tank. It rarely gets used in my home garage. It came with a qt jug of Emglo brand oil N-100. I had to add a little oil a few years ago and now I’m thinking the oil should have been changed a long time ago. I’m guessing the compressor has close to 100 hrs on it and is still in excellent condition. Since Emglo was bought out (DeWalt?) what type of oil should I be using now? There is no sight level glass or dipstick. What volume of oil does the reservoir need to be considered full when I change the oil? Thank you. Rick W in Santa Rosa-Calif
I believe it uses blue synthetic air compressor oil. Emglo did get bought out by DeWalt, but they only bought the name and a couple of the models. Jenny compressors is the company that formed after, with workers from the original factory. Anything Jenny makes is pretty much compatible with the original Emglo. They are a great source for parts and OEM schematics. Jenny compressor oil should be fine to use with it. Oil is easy, simply drain via the pipe on the side near the base, cap off, then fill with new until oil is at the bottom threads of the oil fill spout.
Originally it was a copper line with flared ends and a full loop in it. This is the new part from Jenny compressors. They used to be emglo. Same models so a lot of the parts are interchangeable.
I had one that the tank finally rusted out all the other components were still in decent condition replaced the tanks and still runs great after 30 years! Just a work horse!
Dear Sir, I came into the possession of a K15A-8P compressor without a motor, if you see my message I wonder if you would mind sharing the mfg. and model # of the motor on yours so I can begin the process of finding a compatible used motor. Thanks in advance.
This has been a great compressor, but I have a weld leak on the tank now. I found a replacement tank from a different compressor and I am currently moving this motor/pump to the new tank, maybe I'll do a video on that.
I have the same unit and currently no way to turn on and off without pulling the cord. My pilot valve is acting up and I'd like to a add a pressure switch. Where can I find unloader fitting that connects to the head unloader?
So yours is continuous run, correct? You can convert to only start/stop if you want or you can do a combination like I have. Message me if you want to talk more.
@@spotlightinspections yes mine is only constant run with no on/off switch. If you plug it in its running. I had a switched outlet I use to deal with that prob. Main problem is when it hits full pressure it will not bipass. It bumps back and forth several times a second until I turn the power off or use the air dropping the tank pressure. I don't know if it's the pilot valve or something in the compressor head not allowing full bipass.
I have this EXACT compressor with original power switch and different belt. It's 115v/230v (or something similar.) The wiring is not connected. I have no clue how to read the diagram. And no clue how to convert it. Looking for help, please! I can't find anything specific enough online. I'll add a few specs and model to this comment later today but if this is enough for anything I'd very much appreciate feedback.
Jenny makes these now. Emglo is DeWalt owned. Jenny should have all service documents and parts. I think I got some of mine through west. Last compressors, there are a few other small compressor shops that sell online
Matt, is that the LU80 head on your compressor and is the LU80 head with unloader valves needed to unload the head or can unloading the head be accomplished another way when compressor reaches pressure? The L50 head doesn't have unloader valves.
I'm not 100% sure on my head model, but that sounds right. The pilot valve has built in unloader pins controlled by the pilot valve but those pins spring load default to a pressurized position making the pump build pressure. Sometimes emglo would use the same pump and head and simply plug the unloader port on the head to use a simple start/stop, pressure switch operation. The switch unloads the pump head in a different way. It doesn't actuate those internal head pins, but instead via the check valve with 1/4" side port piped to the unloader valve on the switch. The unloader valve unloads all pressure between the pump head and check valve, doing the same thing just a different way. So when motor starts it doesn't lock the rotor.
All copper for the unloader valve and the pilot valve to the head is 1/4". Originally there was copper for the pressure line but that's been replaced by the braided line. I don't have any other copper on that machine. Everything else is black threaded pipe.
Matt, I doubt that you will ever know how helpful your video has been for me. I made the mistake years ago of adding a pressure switch to go from constant run to start/ stop. But I made the mistake of not adding the check valve to relieve the pressure off the motor for startup. Lots of trips to the circuit breaker. Now I'm trying to do it right. Your description is exactly what I needed. I borrowed some parts from an old Porter Cable pancake compressor. Hope they work. Waiting for the check valve in the mail. Got it all painted spiffy and ready for the parts. Thanks again
Hi Matt, thanks for the informative video. I am working on the exact same compressor, set up the way yours is (ball valve for selectable constant-run or start/stop mode) but it's missing some parts and I have a couple questions you might be able to answer: 1) I am missing the motor run capacitor (the one to the left on the motor from the perspective of your video), and have been hunting for the correct replacement. If yours has the same or similar motor (mine is a 1.5 HP 110/220V 1ph Century MagneTek 168697), is there any way you can pop that cover off and get the specs on that capacitor? 2) What is the model of the Square D pressure switch you have on there? 3) This is probably a stupid question, but how are the two tanks connected together? The only thing attached between the tanks that I can see is the 1/4" copper line going from the backflow valve on the far tank to the pressure switch which I think is just for blowdown purposes. 4) Another dumb question, but what is the function of the pressure switch when the compressor is in constant-run mode? Is it just set higher than the pilot valve pressure, so the compressor unloads before it sees the cut-out pressure it's set to, or does it still bleed the line going from the compressor to the receiver tank when the compressor is unloaded?
When it's in constant run mode it's so it doesn't cause constant sharp spikes in current from the outlet. It bleeds the air off once it's full like a gas air compressor. The new Rolair have this feature the older one we have is start stop.
@@bryanmartinez6600 Thanks Herp, does the pilot valve have to be set lower than the pressure switch for it to work in constant run mode? From the vid it looks like in constant run mode both the pressure switch and the pilot valve are exposed to tank pressure as it builds up, so is the lower setpoint of the pilot valve what makes it unload the compressor before the pressure switch cuts power to the motor? I finally figured out the answer to question 3), it's through the handle over the wheel, it's a piece of hollow pipe.
@@5spyderboy sorry about the horribly late reply, I must have had notifications turned off. Short answer on the capacitor, my motor is different than original so not sure it would work for me to look (you've probably already figured it out). There are motor resources type in the info off of the nameplate and it recommends the correct capacitor. The pilot switch does have a setpoint that is lower than the pressure switch I believe it's 90 cut-in, and 120 cut-out, the switch is 95-125.
The pressure switch controls the electric for the motor, and since the cutout setpoint is higher than the pilot valve (which controls the pump), the motor continuously runs since the switch pressure is never satisfied. The pilot valve is how gas compressors function allowing the motor to run continuously but not overpressurizing the tank. There are pins in the pump head that when pilot valve puts pressure on them (when pressure is over cut out) they disengage open the pressure side of the piston. When pressure is released (falls below pilot valve cut in) the pins drop back into place allowing pressure to build.
@@spotlightinspections Believe it or not I called the tech support number for the company that bought the company that bought the company that was Marathon and a nice old lady named Dolores answered and asked for my motor serial number (which didn't come up on Google) and gave me the capacitor PN in 30 seconds.
Matt your video is just what i was looking for, is there any way icould get a parts list, i have a jenny K15A-8P with a KU pump it is set up just like yours before the conversation. It also has a Marathon 1 1/2 hp motor. The big problum is when i got it the start & run capacitors where missing. I was able to track down the right capacitors for it but i cant find a wiring diagram for it anywhere, i need it because they also removed the wire nuts on the groups of wires in the box on the motor. If you could help it would be much appreciated thank you.
Great information on the valve to switch the motor to on and off. All these years I didn't know I could switch out of the constant run position. Thank you!!
Hey Matt can you give me a list of all fittings and switches from your compressor
About 20 years ago I bought a new Emglo 2HP dual voltage wheelbarrow style compressor with a 20 Gal tank. Maybe it’s a K15A-17A but I was told it had a 20 Gal tank. It rarely gets used in my home garage. It came with a qt jug of Emglo brand oil N-100. I had to add a little oil a few years ago and now I’m thinking the oil should have been changed a long time ago. I’m guessing the compressor has close to 100 hrs on it and is still in excellent condition. Since Emglo was bought out (DeWalt?) what type of oil should I be using now? There is no sight level glass or dipstick. What volume of oil does the reservoir need to be considered full when I change the oil? Thank you. Rick W in Santa Rosa-Calif
I believe it uses blue synthetic air compressor oil. Emglo did get bought out by DeWalt, but they only bought the name and a couple of the models. Jenny compressors is the company that formed after, with workers from the original factory. Anything Jenny makes is pretty much compatible with the original Emglo. They are a great source for parts and OEM schematics. Jenny compressor oil should be fine to use with it. Oil is easy, simply drain via the pipe on the side near the base, cap off, then fill with new until oil is at the bottom threads of the oil fill spout.
Hi, Matt. Wondering what kind and where you bought the Braided Stainless Steel Compression hose for exhaust? Is it just water hose? Thanks John
Originally it was a copper line with flared ends and a full loop in it. This is the new part from Jenny compressors. They used to be emglo. Same models so a lot of the parts are interchangeable.
@@spotlightinspectionsDo you have part number for hose? I really need that hose for replacement. Thanks for quick response.. John
So I have same compressor,what all will I need to do this conversion
I had one that the tank finally rusted out all the other components were still in decent condition replaced the tanks and still runs great after 30 years! Just a work horse!
Dear Sir, I came into the possession of a K15A-8P compressor without a motor, if you see my message I wonder if you would mind sharing the mfg. and model # of the motor on yours so I can begin the process of finding a compatible used motor. Thanks in advance.
This has been a great compressor, but I have a weld leak on the tank now. I found a replacement tank from a different compressor and I am currently moving this motor/pump to the new tank, maybe I'll do a video on that.
I have the same unit and currently no way to turn on and off without pulling the cord. My pilot valve is acting up and I'd like to a add a pressure switch. Where can I find unloader fitting that connects to the head unloader?
So yours is continuous run, correct? You can convert to only start/stop if you want or you can do a combination like I have. Message me if you want to talk more.
@@spotlightinspections yes mine is only constant run with no on/off switch. If you plug it in its running. I had a switched outlet I use to deal with that prob. Main problem is when it hits full pressure it will not bipass. It bumps back and forth several times a second until I turn the power off or use the air dropping the tank pressure. I don't know if it's the pilot valve or something in the compressor head not allowing full bipass.
I have this EXACT compressor with original power switch and different belt. It's 115v/230v (or something similar.) The wiring is not connected. I have no clue how to read the diagram. And no clue how to convert it. Looking for help, please! I can't find anything specific enough online. I'll add a few specs and model to this comment later today but if this is enough for anything I'd very much appreciate feedback.
I can help, let me know. Email or something.
Where did you find parts for yours I have 2 of the same ones
Jenny makes these now. Emglo is DeWalt owned. Jenny should have all service documents and parts. I think I got some of mine through west. Last compressors, there are a few other small compressor shops that sell online
Matt, is that the LU80 head on your compressor and is the LU80 head with unloader valves needed to unload the head or can unloading the head be accomplished another way when compressor reaches pressure? The L50 head doesn't have unloader valves.
I'm not 100% sure on my head model, but that sounds right. The pilot valve has built in unloader pins controlled by the pilot valve but those pins spring load default to a pressurized position making the pump build pressure. Sometimes emglo would use the same pump and head and simply plug the unloader port on the head to use a simple start/stop, pressure switch operation. The switch unloads the pump head in a different way. It doesn't actuate those internal head pins, but instead via the check valve with 1/4" side port piped to the unloader valve on the switch. The unloader valve unloads all pressure between the pump head and check valve, doing the same thing just a different way. So when motor starts it doesn't lock the rotor.
Hey matt,,,can u tell me the sizes of the copper u ran was...I know that there is 1 larger size and 2 smaller ones...love 2 kno the size.thanx
All copper for the unloader valve and the pilot valve to the head is 1/4". Originally there was copper for the pressure line but that's been replaced by the braided line. I don't have any other copper on that machine. Everything else is black threaded pipe.
Matt, I doubt that you will ever know how helpful your video has been for me. I made the mistake years ago of adding a pressure switch to go from constant run to start/ stop. But I made the mistake of not adding the check valve to relieve the pressure off the motor for startup. Lots of trips to the circuit breaker. Now I'm trying to do it right. Your description is exactly what I needed. I borrowed some parts from an old Porter Cable pancake compressor. Hope they work. Waiting for the check valve in the mail. Got it all painted spiffy and ready for the parts. Thanks again
Yes the trick to making this work right is the check valve at the tank combined with the port piped to the pressure switch unloader valve.
@@spotlightinspections Its working like a charm. Thanks again.
Emqlo (EMQLO)
Hi Matt, thanks for the informative video. I am working on the exact same compressor, set up the way yours is (ball valve for selectable constant-run or start/stop mode) but it's missing some parts and I have a couple questions you might be able to answer: 1) I am missing the motor run capacitor (the one to the left on the motor from the perspective of your video), and have been hunting for the correct replacement. If yours has the same or similar motor (mine is a 1.5 HP 110/220V 1ph Century MagneTek 168697), is there any way you can pop that cover off and get the specs on that capacitor? 2) What is the model of the Square D pressure switch you have on there? 3) This is probably a stupid question, but how are the two tanks connected together? The only thing attached between the tanks that I can see is the 1/4" copper line going from the backflow valve on the far tank to the pressure switch which I think is just for blowdown purposes. 4) Another dumb question, but what is the function of the pressure switch when the compressor is in constant-run mode? Is it just set higher than the pilot valve pressure, so the compressor unloads before it sees the cut-out pressure it's set to, or does it still bleed the line going from the compressor to the receiver tank when the compressor is unloaded?
When it's in constant run mode it's so it doesn't cause constant sharp spikes in current from the outlet. It bleeds the air off once it's full like a gas air compressor. The new Rolair have this feature the older one we have is start stop.
@@bryanmartinez6600 Thanks Herp, does the pilot valve have to be set lower than the pressure switch for it to work in constant run mode? From the vid it looks like in constant run mode both the pressure switch and the pilot valve are exposed to tank pressure as it builds up, so is the lower setpoint of the pilot valve what makes it unload the compressor before the pressure switch cuts power to the motor? I finally figured out the answer to question 3), it's through the handle over the wheel, it's a piece of hollow pipe.
@@5spyderboy sorry about the horribly late reply, I must have had notifications turned off. Short answer on the capacitor, my motor is different than original so not sure it would work for me to look (you've probably already figured it out). There are motor resources type in the info off of the nameplate and it recommends the correct capacitor. The pilot switch does have a setpoint that is lower than the pressure switch I believe it's 90 cut-in, and 120 cut-out, the switch is 95-125.
The pressure switch controls the electric for the motor, and since the cutout setpoint is higher than the pilot valve (which controls the pump), the motor continuously runs since the switch pressure is never satisfied. The pilot valve is how gas compressors function allowing the motor to run continuously but not overpressurizing the tank. There are pins in the pump head that when pilot valve puts pressure on them (when pressure is over cut out) they disengage open the pressure side of the piston. When pressure is released (falls below pilot valve cut in) the pins drop back into place allowing pressure to build.
@@spotlightinspections Believe it or not I called the tech support number for the company that bought the company that bought the company that was Marathon and a nice old lady named Dolores answered and asked for my motor serial number (which didn't come up on Google) and gave me the capacitor PN in 30 seconds.