Відео

Where do you get the cutter for the circles?

Is it possible to make these combustible paper cartridges for muzzleloafing rifles too (specifically the whitworth)? Or is it just for black powder revolvers?

It amazes me how many on here can yap away for over half an hour and not really say anything. A five minute video dragged out to 32:54. I guess people just love the sound of their own voices

The quality of this video and clear presentation confirmed my decision to choose your Paper Cartridge Former Kit over others on the market. Well done.👍🏼

I have an antique shotshell hanloader with an adjustable shot/powder cup that uses the black powder dram measurements. I think Lee still makes these out plastic .

How do you load and shoot your shotgun

Perfect 50 state legal defense weapon that can be delivered right to your door...

That's good to know !

Isn’t it easier to just load your revolver? Or just use extra barrel that you can change in 3 sec

You save time when loading but the remaining not burned paper needs you more cleaning time

very informative and interesting..where did you purchase the round paper cutter..do you have a link?

great video,very informative. Where did you purchase the craft cutter for the circular pieces?

Rolling paper works the best 👌

Tweezers or a small pair of pliers help in handling/inserting the bullet into the cartridge.

I wear gloves when handling the lead zinc bullets and the powder. As a measurer a .380 cartridge case with the spent primer still intact. Gives me a touch over 12 ounces for my 1851 navy revolver

Cześć. Można u ciebie zamówić kopytko do cal. 36. I ten dziurkacz do Kołeczek papierowych

Correct! I use the zig zag 1.5 but your punch is mine also... 5/8 and 3/4 I use elmers glue that is purple but dries clear. I made the 31 kit using a block of teflon 3/4" thick. The mandrel is made of wood and tapered and has an O ring at the cutting off edge. it is a great guide for a razor blade. The holes in the block are tapered slightly.. but I have like ten holes. this allows me to make em and leave em till they dry.. by the time I get to the tenth? the rest are dry. The O ring makes for a flare that sticks up a tad above the block. this allows a glued ball to 'fall' into the formed case. I drive the ball down with the edge of the cover for the glue stick. Not important for the conicals you use but essential for the round balls I use. again... by the time I finish the last I can punch em out of the block... having now 10 finished paper cartridges Oh... powder? I just use a flask I cut all my papers ahead of time I leave excess at the top and the bottom and just trim it off with a razor blade that I touch up with a stone every few rounds.. this is simple and results in sharper than factory. I said finished but they are not. I use a tray with lube (half beezwax and half tallow) and dip the ends into it. For 31 caliber I use a 22lr plastic case of 100 And yeah... LOL I get glue all over my fingers gluing balls... that is why 10 holes is better than one. and yes.. rolling a straight paper onto a tapered mandrel is problematic... but who cares? just roll it and trim both ends. a wrinkle? who cares? long as the small end goes into the chamber and the rest goes in far enough to turn the cyl under the ram? The gun does not care how ugly you made the round. nor... how compact the powder charge was in the cartridge. if that makes sense. I think the flare in the 'case' is important as you do not get the 'goofs' you mention. Kits... could do this by simply making the ball/conical end on the mandrel have a flare... none I know of do.

Can I use powerbelt instead of sabot

What powder grain is the scoop

En vez de papel deberías probar con lámina de cobre.

I'm dizzy now.

I like to use papers that are not burned after shots co chambers are protected from residues that stick to them becouse paper cover. Ans when i shoot and reload i have something to take that half burned paper out. For cicles i use tea bags. (For constant paper thicknes and sure that fit my chambers , templates that i make i use paper from shop receipts. I was use flash papers but in shorts i stop use it becouse with time they make more problems that pros.

Is there no primer?

Big rolling papers work great too. They are also pre glued. They combust very cleanly. I used them for cap n ball revolver cartridges

Ohhh!! I was trying to figure out wtf this was!! There musket shots! Am I right??

I thought the official ratio was 8 parts beeswax to 1 part tallow

Sinceramente,per la lingua, non ho capito una mazza, sono italiano, purtroppo non sono molto preparato con le lingue straniere,ma guardando e riguardando il video, e facendo attenzione alle mani della donna, devo dire che mi sono confezionato cartucce niente male, devo dire che sono soddisfatto, complimenti per il video e vi ringrazio, saluti dall'Italia

Oh also, this demonstration video is an excellent tutorial. Your camera work is perfect, and the young lady has a great voice and articulation. Thank you for the video and for the products you provide the muzzle loading community. Best Wishes.

Just checked out your website and am impressed! Your products look first rate, totally practical and useful, so I'll definitely be a customer. However, there is an important distinction between terminology that needs to be used with muzzle loading cartridges. I hate to sound so "pedantic" but here goes. Revolver paper envelope cartridges are historically referred to as "combustible envelope cartridges". This is because the entire cartridge envelope is not torn, but is instead inserted into the cylinder chamber and then rammed in with the loading lever. A "paper cartridge" in muzzle loading refers to cartridges that are torn open, the powder poured in and then the bullet / ball removed, and rammed down, the remaining paper then discarded. In the 1850's and 1860's the U.S. Military Arsenals loaded both a revolver paper cartridge and a revolver combustible envelope cartridge, making the terminology distinction extremely important to the user of the cartridge as to how to load the cartridge in the revolver chamber!

Great video, thanks!

Great video thank you.

Do I need a patch when making a cartridge with round ball or should I just snug up the ball to the powder? Plastic sabots are illegal for hunting in my state.

I've been watching these videos and don't have a black powder revolver, but I want one now. This looks like a fun hobby. Thinking of an 1851(?) .36 replica. Any recommendations?

Do you make kits like that for the 1863 sharps?

My mouth makes my patch lube. In 50 years it has yet to be improved upon.

Looks like 3d printed kits

Good video

This is fantastic! I just ordered a kit and block for my 2 ROA’S. Can’t wait to try them out.

It doesn't seem her parents had a problem with it.

Interesting. So, for a New Army in .44, do the paper cartridges drop easily into each cylinder? Then use the load lever to seat the cartridge? How long can the paper cartridges last if kept in a sealed ammo box? Thanks!

I have now used the .44 kit for 4 months. It is easy to use and makes good cartridges. I have personalized your steps . I recommend the kit. The beewax lube is very good. I do not always use paper cartridges at the range.

Good basic info, thanks.

60-40 lanolin/beeswax works very well.

You can even use a muffin tin and line then with cupcake baking paper cups.....perfect once the lube cools.

Rendered Lambs tallow is the best fir any black powder lube.

I recommend a water dish as opposed to licking your finger as you handle bare lead.

Mine is Gato Feo type. I wanted to stretch the components and bees wax being the most expensive it was the least amount in the ratio. I made 10 pounds of lube so only 2 pounds of bees wax. Just enough the bees wax adds its sticky adhesive character and higher melting temperature to the mix. I do have a few pounds of 50/50 bees wax/olive oil meant for earlier muskets and long rifles. Its nowhere near as effective as tallow base lubricants but it certainly makes a good case lube for sizing brass. The 50/50 tallow and bees wax blend is correct for musketry. Arsenals called for this blend on minie balls and Johnston and Dow pistol bullets. Ultimately to each his own. I do firmly believe the tallow is a must and that it unlike anything else, has a specific effect on carbon fouling. I've yet to find another natural material that so ably lends itself to softening black powder fouling without itself becoming gummy or ineffective with subsequent shots.

Does it go rancid after a while?

Thanks for the video. Not as easy as it looks. Seems like every one I make, I screw up three 🤦

"and that...is..a perfect paper cartridge.........................Except it isnt..." LOL excellent delivery.