- 21
- 14 090
Cars N CAD
Приєднався 8 бер 2014
Welcome to Cars N CAD! Where I combine my two favorite hobbies: Cars and making stuff! As an amature designer, you can join me on my adventure to learn and create some cool stuff.
Building the BIGGEST Ender 3!! 2000mm x 2000mm
Was thinking i could do something crazy and unhinged for some channel content! lemme know if you wanna see more!
@sendcutsend is not a sponsor or affiliate but check them out. I'm super happy with my brackets, and I'm sure they will be used again on this project before its done.
affiliate links for materials used below
2020 aluminum t slot extrusion- amzn.to/3ZtK8K5
2040 aluminum t slot extrusion- amzn.to/3B9EK6K
t slot brackets 90 degree- amzn.to/3ZpNCNA
v slot wheels- amzn.to/3VtD4M1
toothed belt- amzn.to/3ZtFmfm
@sendcutsend is not a sponsor or affiliate but check them out. I'm super happy with my brackets, and I'm sure they will be used again on this project before its done.
affiliate links for materials used below
2020 aluminum t slot extrusion- amzn.to/3ZtK8K5
2040 aluminum t slot extrusion- amzn.to/3B9EK6K
t slot brackets 90 degree- amzn.to/3ZpNCNA
v slot wheels- amzn.to/3VtD4M1
toothed belt- amzn.to/3ZtFmfm
Переглядів: 108
Відео
My wife is cool with engine parts in the house! Here's why...
Переглядів 51Місяць тому
thanks for watching, i decided to get the last bit of use out of my blown up ej20 before scrapping the rest for the aluminum Etsy: aboveallandbeyond3d.etsy.com?coupon=CNC20 code: cnc20 affiliate links: lamp sockets- amzn.to/3Z60skY lamp cord- amzn.to/4hHElZH lamp hardware 3/8 ipst- amzn.to/4hOMzyT lamp shades came from Walmart i think
How my 3dprinter saves me money on groceries!!
Переглядів 359Місяць тому
my child turned up the temp in our fridge, which resulted in an unexpected grocery bill. we had to throw out some perishables like poultry and dairy products. i know this video is slightly off brand but i felt it could make a good video because i love when tech solves real world problem, and you can do it yourself. please check out my amazon affiliate links to help support the channel. and drop...
What caused my Subaru wrx engine to fail
Переглядів 1042 місяці тому
just a video explaining how the ej engine experiences oil starvation under hard cornering
Subaru WRX Upgrade: DIY CNC Billet Aluminum Sway Bar End Links
Переглядів 363 місяці тому
this is the second time I've replaced a broken OEM plastic end link! no more! Were making our own! out of billet aluminum with poly bushings! below ill link to the materials used. these are affiliate links and i will earn a small commission for you using them but it cost you nothing extra. poly resin- amzn.to/3z83wmy bushing sleeves- amzn.to/3XtKhx7 amzn.to/3XxK63U aluminum bar stock- amzn.to/4...
What I learned when making my own carbon fiber parts
Переглядів 2,1 тис.3 місяці тому
this is my first time trying to make parts out of carbon fiber! I share what worked and what didn't music- Electro House - Lesfm Instrumental Deep House - hasenchat materials used: carbon fiber and resin- amzn.to/4cGYv2f mold release wax- amzn.to/4dTgNhB mold release gel- amzn.to/3z0jU8w cellophane tape- amzn.to/3yTdVSW vacuum bags- amzn.to/3T5ULAm
Carbon Fiber Car Parts Step-by-Step Mold Making (Mistakes Were Made!)
Переглядів 4,3 тис.4 місяці тому
gel coat- amzn.to/4c70VXx partall #2 mold release paste- amzn.to/4fvyENl fiberglass matt- amzn.to/4d6deod carbon fiber with resin (kit)-amzn.to/4d2HdgY epoxy resin (resin only)- amzn.to/3WrXhla pva mold release gel- amzn.to/3Wvur3d scale for measuring resin- amzn.to/3LM99cL shears- amzn.to/46sAevg paper cups- amzn.to/3WpAeYl paint brushes- amzn.to/3LOX06S
Stop buying Creality Ender 3's!!
Переглядів 2,3 тис.4 місяці тому
you get so much more value for your money if you buy something newer with more features vs. buying an older model and upgrading it! Ender 3 v2 neo- amzn.to/3W0dePe Ender 3 max neo- amzn.to/3y2iSbA Creality CR-M4- amzn.to/4cY3yMd Creality K1 max- amzn.to/3xTiQCV my 3d printer build- ender3- amzn.to/3VVTzjA ender extender 300x300- enderextender.com/collections/ender-3-v2-kits/products/ender-exten...
Fire-Breathing Supra: Mastering 2-Step and Rolling Launch Control!
Переглядів 485 місяців тому
Fire-Breathing Supra: Mastering 2-Step and Rolling Launch Control!
Upgrade Your Car’s Look on a Budget: Color-Matched Air Dam Installation
Переглядів 575 місяців тому
Upgrade Your Car’s Look on a Budget: Color-Matched Air Dam Installation
The Ultimate Jeep Liberty KJ Window Fix That Lasts Forever!
Переглядів 815 місяців тому
The Ultimate Jeep Liberty KJ Window Fix That Lasts Forever!
Custom Car Mats DIY: Quick & Easy Tutorial
Переглядів 9685 місяців тому
Custom Car Mats DIY: Quick & Easy Tutorial
Installing a standalone without a dyno
Переглядів 3145 місяців тому
Installing a standalone without a dyno
That's "Giganthor"
Ouch sorry to hear dude. Unfortunately it's a design flaw with the boxer engines during long high g turns. Great cars, addictive to drive but Damm.expensive to drive fast 😂😢
Im so glad I found your channel, keep the videos coming on this project
I'm glad you enjoy my content! I'm planning on making more videos about this as it progresses.
The comments on youtube/internet can be hateful and or discouraging. Dont let anything stop you on this project of biggest Ender 3, this may even get you in Guiness world records!! Looking forward to seeing giant benchy boat!
You're in for so much disappointment. Gotta waste time somehow.
The way I see it, the time isn't wasted if i learned something... I'm up for a challenge... maybe I'll see if i can print a giant benchy faster than 45 days 🤣
Do a core XY a good example of a printer that is similar to what you’re building is the orange storm giga we have one at work and it is amazing for what it is. It has a similar print quality to a bamboo A1. If you need anything, reply to this comment and I’ll help you out.
Yeah it's kind of an experiment and i don't even know if it'll work... I had a spare ender 3 sitting in the garage to rob parts from... right know I know it will be roughly 1800mm³... ender 3 board with some version of a modified firmware maybe klipper and a pi 4b... probably a cheap pellet extruder, infrared lamp bed heaters, 1 x stepper, 2 y steppers split off one driver, and the z will probably be 1 stepper with 4 lead screws connected via toothed belt
Definitely core xy don’t want the center of mass shifting on such a big machine
dayum
Make it a core x y
I would do a stationary so it can have more print volume
Good job man, I would love to do this but material is not easily accessed
I like that litho!! That's cool
I just used that same carbon kit, and I really like it. I'll be carbon fiber wrapping all kinds of stuff now. I 3D printed a new butt stock and wrapped it to make it stronger and look awesome. it wasn't easy, but came out really good, and next project I think I'll nail it. cut my pieces with my 40watt diode laser cutter
i kind of wanna try doing some carbon overlay/wrapping eventually... I've seen people using chop tow with good results "forged carbon" or whatever they are calling it
This was a fantastic view of what the learning curve looks like. Thanks for sharing.
thanks for watching! So far my strategy has been just to be real and honest with my audience. If i have problems with a project, I'm gonna show it in my videos, because there is usually someone that knows a better way and its a good learning opportunity.
So by not click bait you mean it's definitely click bait.
Not at all... I solved a real world problem that will save me money, or at the very least will prevent me from needing to spend more than necessary
That was good!
where do you get the wax?
The mold release wax? I got it just from Amazon, partall #2 paste there's a link in the description
@@CARS-N-CAD the fillet wax. yellow wax you used to fill corners
Oh no! The siver survivor is not the suvivor
oh look, another subaru blew up... brand shouldn't exist.
I'm gonna make another video about my findings tearing into it, no boxer fanboy stuff here it's literally just my s***box daily driver. So I'll be giving an impartial opinion lol
how many miles were you at
140k on the odometer, but it has an avcs engine so I'm assuming it got a jdm swap at some point...
Oh yeah. That’s a spun bearing. Could have happened from the oil pump plate backing out. Or more than likely a vacuum leak causing pre ignition. These engines should be regularly smoke tested for leaks. Pre-ignition causes the tolerances on left and right sides of the bearing to get all out of whack and then the bearing deforms and then spins. Could have been a MAF issue as well. After about 80-100k miles they are pretty worn out on some cars. Who knows. It’s a wrx. Lots of things that can go wrong. The engines are not exactly the strongest motors.
@joshuathomas4934 the funny thing was there wasn't even a check engine light even with the access port showing like 11-12 on the knock parameter (i don't remember if it was DAM, fine or feedback that I was looking at) 🤣
nice job
Thanks!
Pretty slick!
You had air in the syringe.
I know, while I was editing the video I was thinking why didn't my dumb ass just suck it up with the plunger? 🤣 but I included it anyways cuz I don't want my videos to seem perfect and fake... I make mistakes just like everyone else
Pretty good for your first attempts! Question: How would you have made the molds, if the 3D scan data turned out good? 3D Print? CNC Router/Machine?
@drrock5356 I would've 3d printed the mold with petg, from the research I did it's pretty chemical resistant and the resin won't bond to it. And when you do your final coat of resin on the finished carbon fiber part it gets rid of layer lines
@@CARS-N-CAD I 3D printed a PETG mold for compression molding chopped carbon fiber tow, and the release agent I used acted instead as an adhesion promoter. I had to chisel the PETG away from the part.
Good to know maybe I'll have to experiment
@@CARS-N-CAD I won't mention the brand, but stay away from release agents meant for metal molds/surfaces, which can be found in the "fine print" on the rear label.
@@drrock5356 what if you wrapped your mold in saran wrap? it doesn't stick to saran wrap at all. I used it to wrap my skinning project then wrapped it with electrical tape nice and tight, came out good. had some wrinkles in the resin itself, but they sanded out. on a mold the wrinkles would be on the inside so wouldn't matter
Try dabbing the resin on instead of brushing, this will ensure the resin penetrates all of the glass and not just the surface
@JonMorley1 yeah I learned dabbing with the flat side of the brush worked best for me, my biggest problem was my glass mat was way too thick and heavy for what I was trying to do... shredding the glass mat into tow fibers helped a ton
@@CARS-N-CAD 100gsm for first layer would definitely have have helped. Final piece looked good though
The newest ones are BMW's. NOT REAL SUPRA'S.
I agree with you... but by that logic, it's like saying anything with a JZ is a Yamaha... toyota has a long history of collaborating with other companies on R&D. And while it might not be suited to everyone's taste, I'm glad they were able to bring it to market... personally, imo bmw uses too much engine plastic and I'm not a big fan of direct injection
That was a good turnout. I had fun. Especially the party button
Karb on fiba😂😂😂
That’s killer. Been loving the updates on the “side” lol
I just get excited I can't keep secrets lol
@@CARS-N-CAD I think it's killer! It's almost like a "members club" lol 😆
wow i liked this it’s hard to find 2step videos on emublack
Making such a poorly titled, solely opinionated video also is not a good idea.
For anyone new to 3D printing who just wants something that works, the A1 Mini makes way more sense for the money and vs any Ender 3 machine in the lineup honestly. I'm not even a Bambu Lab fanboy. For someone wanting to get into more serious filament printing and especially for stuff like automotive prints, the Q1 Pro by Qidi Tech is incredibly capable for the money and would be my go to recommendation. Get an Ender 3 only if it's $100 or less and you want to learn how to mod it, even though they can of course print fine stock. The Ender 3 V3 SE and KE just aren't worth the money vs an A1 Mini. The Ender 3 V3 also isn't worth it vs the A1 regular or stepping up to a Q1 Pro.
my old Ender 3v1 has a microswiss direct drive and a glass bed - first thing I got for it after I printed a few cubes. It's been cranking out prints no questions asked since 2019 and honestly it's one of my favorite machines. Sure I use my Bambu more, but that old thing just won't quit and it's fun watching it trundle along. Never really had much issue with it (I print PETG, so I don't need to lather my bed in glue or anything, gross!). For 150 bucks new, I think I've got my money's worth!
I do agree to SOME extend that when buying new there are better and MUCH faster options on the market. However the old 'classic Ender 3' is still a strong and reliable machine, when configured properly and tweaked a bit can deliver very high precision for low cost. I'm running several of them for high detail parts (not just 'trinkets'), and they are still going strong years after we got them. Do have to admit that two of them are HEAVILY modified (till the point you can't even call them an Ender 3 anymore 🤣(aside from their frame). Those have (own) custom designed boards, touchscreen interface (own custom software for my industrial use and not some octoprint stuff) and more of the alike. But also the several other more basic Ender 3's we're still using (aside from using a microswiss hot end and my own adapted marlin firmware) still do a GREAT job in delivering high quality prints. HOWEVER, they are definitely not as fast as an CR-10-SE for example (which can peak at around 600mm/s vs the default Ender 3's with around 60mm/s). But then again they do go for double the price though 🤷♀ If someone would ask me which type of printer for not too much money I would recommend? I would then for example say a CR-10-SE, not to expensive, HIGH speed printer (does large prints in about 12 hours where the default Ender 3 would take about 2 DAYS and 9 hours for the same print). But if they are on a very tight budget and really want to get into 3D printing? Then the Ender 3 (V1) still isn't a bad choice to be honest in my opinion. It's a very decent printer to get started, to learn how to properly level your machines, how the mechanics work and more of the a like. And especially second hand they are "practically free" these days😊 So I do agree (in most cases/situations) that you should not buy an Ender 3 V1 brand new anymore in 2024, but second hand or as very low budget starter it still one of the best ones to go for in my opinion. Definitely A LOT better than some of the other cheap 'fire hazard options' that are out there (although a lot less these days luckily) 😊
The only "upgrade" im doing for my OG ender 3 pro will be turning it into a wire EDM. Or using the parts to build a newer more modern printer.
Got one for myself in 2020 as I wanted something really cheap, and at the time it was a great machine to tinker on. In 2024 there is no reason to get an Ender anymore, thankfully.
I made some updates on mine... Im now printing with 450mm/s on my old ender 3 v2. Its awsome. And its loud. Its like tuning an old vw beetle with a porsche engine 😏
My old boss owned a Beetle with a Porsche engine. That thing was WICKED. (Couldn't run it full torque of course, or the motor would have overtaken the chassis...)
@@feynthefallen Exactly 😂 I think upgrading the Ender 3s is the same. Its just for fun, experimenting with structural limits, and being excited about it when it doesnt rip apart 😂
Meanwhile, some people somewhere want you to spend 5 grand on a certain 5 head printer which doesn't even solve its own problems, let alone the problems it claimed to solve.
Ok, a few MAJOR points if I may: 1st, and most important: an entry-level machine like the Ender3 was never intended or built to print with things like Nylon or PC and is thoroughly unsuitable for the task. As a matter of fact, due to the hotend construction Creality uses, where the PTFE bowden tube reaches all the way down into the nozzle, that is actually quite dangerous, because it exposes you to dangerous fumes from the overheated PTFE. That can cause a condition known as "Teflon Flu" which can be deadly. 2nd, Ender 3 have been outfitted with a removable flexible PEI bed for AGES now. 3rd, the current Ender3 boards feature a 32-bit ARM SoC, which is PLENTY fast enough to run any cartesian in the world, heck, it would even be fast enough to run any DELTA out there. For comparison, I've run Deltas on Atmegas for years. There simply is nothing in the processing a cartesian printer has to do that would make a 32-bit arm even get out of breath. 4th, while Octoprint is an useful upgrade for a printer ecosystem, the Ender3 with its Marlin FW will happily print from an SD card any day. The only reservation about the current generation of boards I have is that they never included an USB host connection for regular usb sticks. 5th, The Ender3 is an entry level machine for hobbyists. If you aim to print professionally, get a professional-level printer and pay professional-level money. It's unprofessional of you to bash it because you are using it in ways it was never intended to be used. Conclusion: It's a tool. It does the job it was built to do. It's no more obsolete than c-spanners in a world that has ratcheting ring spanners. People should buy a better, more advanced one when I need it, not because it's available. So if YOU (like me) are one of the "poor souls" that have one, it's a good little machine, keep it and upgrade it piecemeal, but buy the good, well-fitting upgrades provided directly by Creality. Buy a better one when and only when you want to do things it can't do.
I totally agree with you
bro just casually rick rolls everyone lmao
Ender 3 v3 se is the bee's knees and I don't wanna hear any complaints lmfao I never level the bed idgaf and it takes Tpu, nylon, petg, asa, abs, you name it... Only complaint is I personally run it a bit slow to preserve as much print quality as possible - most of my prints are over night
My ender 3 v3 SE is a solid workhorse. Hasn't let me down yet. It just keeps going!
1:17 Hate that song. Moving on. Ender Extender... I think I ordered from that business for a replacement Z rod.
@seekertosecrets7618 I got their 300mm kit on one of my printers
I am running Ender 3 Max, and honestly, i am running on stock build. I am happy as I can be. Honestly, the idea behind Enders is price IMHO. You can buy base and then, if needed, expand and add more stuff to it. Or just go and get one of more expensive models with all the fancy things on it already...
@82Heniu82 yeah my big ender 3 that I built is basically a ender 3 max neo, when you compare the specs... but if you add up the cost of the build it's almost 2x the price of just buying one
I just bought a bambu labs a1 mini after seeing my ender 3 v2 collecting dust over the years. I did a full linear rail upgrade and it never worked and got scammed by a company that never sent the rail and never got my money back. Just for the cost of the linear rails alone o could have bought another a1 mini
I wanna do linear bearing blocks on one of mine, I think it would be fun to see just how fast I can make it go without too much vibration making it's way into the print
yeah but you can buy base model OG ender 3's on marketplace all day for 50 bucks. if you're just starting out, like to tinker and don't mind spending the time and a few extra dollars, refurbing a lightly used marketplace find might be worth it. I have a few bed slingers and my ender 3, while heavily modified is still my most reliable printer.
@droney_baloney 50-100 bucks is the perfect price point for a base ender 3 for the features (or lack there of) it offers... don't get me wrong I love tinkering with mine, I'm my video I was just speaking about value per dollar
Base ender is under half of an a1 NEW now. For americans the price difference doesn't matter that much though.
@@CARS-N-CAD Yeah that's kinda what I was assuming, hence my long and extensive reply, but this reply of you kinda confirms what I was thinking 😊 Indeed brand new the value per dollar (+ the REQUIRED upgrades to make it a fully suitable 3D printer) isn't "worth it" in most cases. Obviously there are still exceptions to this rule, but the 50-100 bucks is almost a 'no-brainer' imo, especially considering the still solid quality of the Ender 3 "Classic" 😊
I would never recommend a cheap printer for someone starting printing. Start with a Bambu. You don’t have to suffer from bad hard- and software anymore in the consumer market. Only do it when you have someone how know how to print and can help you.
@@Todestelzer @Todestelzer Also depends on where you're coming from I guess (as in field of interest and what your target is). My myself coming from the DIY electronics and 3D printing area, I would in turn not quickly recommend a Bambu for my group of friends, colleagues and/or audience due to the fact there is basically nothing you can do/modify with those printers yourself. They are not open-source and are taking more of the 'Apple Approach' amongst 3D printers. And neither would you really learn about the technique about 3D printers that way. But do note that this is because we/our 'group of people' like to be able to be in full control, customize our own firmware, adapt boards for speciffic needs for example and more of the alike (it's NOT a 'hate comment' against Bambu in general so don't get me wrong here please😉) However it it's just some one that ONLY wants to 3D print and doesn't care about the technique (internally), modifying it in the future etc, A Bambu might indeed be more suitable for them though😊. Less hassle and just made as 'ready to use consumer product' which require little to no prior knowledge to 3D printing 😊 I Personally would then still recommend a Creality CR-10-SE for example, but that's just a personal preference though😊. Nothing wrong with those printers in terms of hardware and software, VERY easy to "assemble" (basically can't even call it assemble haha), rather 'large' build volume and SUPER FAST printing with good results out of the box 😊 But to be honest the Bambu Lab A1 is also a very capable printer and even multi color support for those who don't care about the open-source and modifiability of their printer 😊
I bought the CR-10S 4 years ago... Has been nothing but a boat anchor. Now I did buy the new Bambu X1 Carbon a week ago, and man I tell ya, what a major difference. No complaints at all...
@@donnyinalaska I've heard nothing but good things about it, but I just haven't had a need to invest in a new setup
I got an original ender 3 as a gift and since then added: -Glass Buildplate -Dual Z Axis -Direct Drive -BTT Motherboard -Autobed Leveling Love my printer. I’d get an ender 5 and convert to corexy if I wasn’t already making a markforged clone
Well, i think thats the printer i have. Lol lol i actually have no clue. 😢
They aren't bad printers, they are just objectively bad value for the money spent.
Those crimp connectors have become my fave to use as well. Good job dude!!
yeah i was trolling a bit with those solder shrink tubes 🤣 thanks man
Great video. Nobody seems to be offering a similar metal replacement for the rear windows for the 2002-2005's - only plastic ones. you may have found a niche market. I know I need one, LOL