Відео

I have done a door panel model with STL and DXF - same thingiverse link as the hinge stuff. I didn't include the hole for the door handle as I expect you may have a different preference for placement of that, but it will be easy enough to drill and doesn't need to be too precise - presume you could add it in if you choose as well. I don't have a laser cutter or CNC, and clearly can't print a panel this size, so I can't guarantee that the model is perfect, but I did try to be careful and checked a few measurements - if you do cut a panel won' t you please let me know if it works so that I can take it down if it doesn't? Hope it works for you! I will add the side and back panels when I get a gap.

...and if you're in a hurry, Nadir posted a full set of DXFs for panels here so you could use his side, back and top with my door - www.printables.com/model/879399-sovol-sv08-panels-for-the-enclosure/files

Thanks! Acrylic is 3mm thick.

I haven't tried ABS, but the internal temperature gets to the mid-to-high 30's celsius which is great for PETG (which is printing really well with the enclosure) and I imagine would work OK for ABS, but is too high for PLA. I've now installed an exhaust fan which I'm running with PLA which keeps the temperature under 35 which is still a little high but at least I can keep the top on and door closed to minimise the noise. As soon as I can get some proper filtration or ventilation set up and a project that needs it I'll try some ABS and ASA and post an update, but I don't have an immediate need. My main goal was noise reduction, though, rather than eliminating warping, and for that it's working really well.

With an unvented enclosure as shown in the video, a 100 C bed when printing ABS should passively heat the enclosure to 50-55 C, depending on the ambient environment which should be good for ABS or ASA. If you want a higher temperature, you can add insulated panels on the sides and top or you can add a small internal chamber heater.