Відео

What is your approximate AC voltage feeding the condenser during operation. Also, just out of curiosity what town and state is the unit?

@@johnstonecg When at 80hz, the AC Voltage reading was 238V and when at 60Hz it was 240V. The unit is in Pleasanton, California.

@ So your watts would be 238 * 12 or 2.8KW plus the KW from your blower so 120*6 (if at 6 amps) is 720 or .72KW . Total would be 3.5KW to produce the TC (total capacity).

I checked your KW and therm cost and found them to be $0.399 KW and $2.29 therm for NG. At no point is the heat pump make sense to run from the economic balance point.

@@johnstonecg thanks for the cost calculation. I do have solar and battery storage, but I will factor above and see how to further optimize for cost. How does the Compressor DC voltage play a role in KW consumption, if any? I was using 370*12 amps to calculate 4.4 kw.

If you do add the RF000142 it would drain with a separate drain hose. It would run down to a drain with a loop in the hose to create a water trap.

B3 is an over limit on blower motor (to hot). Check the ESP of air handler so positive in the duct above unit and neg in inlet but between unit and filter. The difference is total external static pressure and you need to be around .5" water column. Over that the motors get hot and you get B3 codes. The largest restriction is a poor filter, if you use a pleated filter it needs to be the right size and type and nothing pleated below 4" thick. We have a video on our sight on ESP.

I’ll look at that video. You mentioned filters, system has the Daikin filter box with a MERV 15 filter. I was thinking airflow issue so I replaced with a MERV 13, to no avail.

@ MERV tells us little about TESP but the model the Daikin filter itself tells me more. It can be between .29 and .17 at 1800CFM, they have 5 different filters in the DV15 lineup. Have them (under warranty) tell you the TESP and if its .5"wc and under the motor is the issue, if its higher than .5"wc it could be duct work issue. Every start up requires the total external static pressure to be read, just be sure the negative reading is between the unit and filter.

Daikin actually authorized a complete system replacement, air handler and condenser and the code still showed. Ducts were replaced as they were too small even for the old system. I’ll have them send a guy up who can do the measurements when I have it serviced in the spring. I appreciate the insight. Too bad you guys aren’t here in Northern CA, Southern Ore, you’d have a new client.

@@ScotCastle Well thank you for that and I am glad you took advantage of the Daikin Guarantee. Do request the total ESP from any company working on system. In HVAC air flow is number one.

AMOUNT OF WIRES Legacy always requires 3 to 7 wires

The original number 0164F00029 per Daikin TSB C-NP-FN-0059. The number Goodman now uses 0270F20724, confirmed with Goodman parts Texas 1/20/25. I removed the section of video to prevent any confusion but the number has been confirmed correct.

LOL us TSA's don't make enough for fancy tools!

Start with going to your menu and going to humidity (maybe comfort if its not updated) and see what level the red numbers are set to, 35 to 40 is comfortable but getting high for the home. Make sure wifi is on to update stat. If all that is good you will need to remove stat from wall (just grab it and wiggle off)and look at wires, tell me if anything is on aux1 or aux2.

Do let us know we can do a video of what to check for

Yes Bosch requires dedicated 2.4 gig for wifi. But you can go to advanced settings code 1886 and change the SS level to 8 (1 cycle). Other wise the honeywell T6 or T10 have been great

T10 has been best for my Bosch IDS BovB and BOVA customers

je t'en prie

It can not on the side discharge (DX6 or DZ6). When the 12RC is utilized with a comm stat the legacy (RGYWC) needs to be unplugged and the blue tooth will not function.

@@johnstonecg thanks followed the video and and worked great,

spaces.hightail.com/space/CM7AT2NGvk

Your BTU output will be set by the CFM but you are correct it will work with either and an AHRI is available for either (Section 25C, 2000.00 tax credit) just be sure you get proper numbers to match AHRI. Your next step is to look at the performance data to be sure the 48 will move the required amount of air, if not the larger AHU will have a better profile. The 48 is more than enough in 95% of applications with medium to good duct work.

idL just means the system is idle and has no call. It will always display unless you have a signal for operation. Energizing G would run continuous fan and will change the display to FAn and display the speed set on the board, F01 in your case. There is no way to remove idL from the display.

@@johnstonecg Thank you, yes, HRV was signaling to the Furnace through the G wire, Disconnected the G wire from the thermostat, HRV and Furnace, it's all good, fan has stopped continous mode.

It does not. Communication wire, especially really long lengths, is preferred stranded and sometimes shielded but not necessary with the protocol adaptor. 10 Solid will do just fine in most all cases.

Christopher - thanks for the post! I agree, that the Bluetooth setup is a great way to do this. I finally got mine dialed in (communicating mode), but it took some effort. I am still using my NEST Gen3 thermostat and here is what I did to get it to work: At furnace, connect White and Black wires to 4 conductor Phoenix plug. Wired NEST with a single Y and W - no need for Y2 or W2. Left C and G wires to furnace only. Did not use R and C to outdoor compressor - it has a 24VAC transformer installed. At compressor, removed 6 connector Phoenix plug (used for non-communicating mode between furnace and compressor) and install 4 conductor plug (1,2, R,C). R & C connected to 24VAC transformer. Only 2 wires required from furnace! My Observations: The CoolCloud (IOS app) Bluetooth poor connection issue is the main reason installers avoid using, in particular, if furnace is in the attic. You have to be really close to the unit to keep connected. However, I arranged my wires inside furnace away from the integrated Bluetooth chip (lower left side on board) and made sure the high current wires were move as far as possible from that area of the board. I also arranged wires so that the panel door did not have to be removed to get the 3-digit code. After completing this, I was able to get an addition bar of signal strength - while in bedroom. I no longer had to be in the attic to stay connected! Yay!! I wanted to monitor performance of the communicating mode and try to compare with the NEST modulating efforts. The code resets after 8 hours or so and I did not want to climb back to attic to get the new code. The thermostat Off, On, Off procedure works but is cumbersome to me. So, I mounted an old Amcrest camera with a magnetic base inside the furnace. This was an idea my wife gave me and it turns out this was a brilliant idea!! This 10-year-old WiFi camera now allows me to view the 3-segment display without going to the attic. I even monitor it while away from home. If I need to get a new code, I just look at the camera - have not been in the attic all week. I use the camera most of the time now to monitor since the 3-segment display shows what is going on, mode, airflow, etc. After about 8 days of use, I can confirm that the communicating algorithm (mode 4 for me) seems to be working great. This thing runs in Stage 1 most of the time and I see the 1/2, 7, and greater, minute changes occurring with different CFM readings. Although I use the 30-minute target with Cooling Trim Factor=0, I do see the CFM reporting 1245 at times. I am going to give this a good week or two and go from there. The CoolCloud IOS app does not seem to be supported by Goodman anymore. When looking at google reviews that are current and over 4 years old, they are still using the same canned reply, "we are working on it". I am really hoping that the folks that did the app programming are NOT the same who did the modulating program algorithms. I will be posting a UA-cam review of the app I will name, "CoolCloud - Unmarred by Progress". ComfortBridge is such a good concept that is unfortunately destroyed by horrific CoolCloud app. The whole security code nonsense is such a waste and roadblock to AC technicians trying to use. Thanks again for your post - I was wondering if anyone even looks at this video anymore.

Thank you for that piece of wisdom, my favorite install class to do is when every one gets a install guide and a highlight marker and we review it together. It has 99% of the answers in it.

Neither the BOSCH BCC100 or Honeywell T6 and T10 series I normally suggest allow upstage for Y2. An easy fix would be ICM102 delay on make between Y1 and Y2 at furnace board and choose your timing, this will also function with the heat pump. It does sound like a balance issue for needed CFM during cooling not getting upstairs where needed, increasing CFM will increase to both main level and second level. Does the second floor have its own trunk? If so a balance will be required using dampers. An easy test to see if that will help is pinch off registers on main floor and see if you increase CFM to level 2 and change the comfort.

@@johnstonecg I will take a look at the ICM102 to see if I want to go that route...it sounds like a reasonable solution until I can figure out the ducting. This is a side-split and the 2nd floor has 6 x 5" round risers and 2 small square returns going up 2x4 walls that open up to 4 floor returns. There is evidence of multiple past attempts to fix the issue...lots of baseboard heaters on the outskirts of the 2nd floor and some capped off vents on the main floor. Over the last couple days I did some duct sealing and moving dampers but it was not enough to make the inverter work substantially harder.

@@SteveRivett Yes some times we hit that brick wall called poor duct work. Best of luck, let me know if we can help.

spaces.hightail.com/space/5lxU2KvRQX

@@johnstonecgplease tell Diakin there app fucking sucks

Just Google Johnstone Supply, there should be one near you

spaces.hightail.com/space/xQ62iFJgsl

No, put 3 wire hard starts on both units to resolve your locked rotor code. They are slightly slow to start and the board has no forgiveness for timing. CSR-U-1 is Goodman part number., the schematic shows where to make connections. You can use any brand but do not use the 2 wire.

All my stores have a chip loaner, ask the store you work with if they do.

ODS is not set! Go to ods setting and set to AC1 or AC2, then go to ton and set the number to match tonnage of your outdoor unit.

Cooling season it is a ten speed and does its best to maintain around 86 degrees on the outdoor heat exchanger. During Heating we would get 8 speeds but under 50 degrees outdoor temperature it really is a 3 speed. The need for heat extraction with the size of the coils requires a certain amount of CFM. The fan speed is dependent on the frequency of compressor and outdoor ambient. If the Outdoor heat exchanger were twice as large, or multi pass for surface area, we would move less air. The size of unit and cost of coil is a trade off for required cfm.

​@@johnstonecg Thanks! Ok thank you.

Thanks ahead of time if you respond

If the outdoor unit is communicating (I need model) you can wire the 1 and 2 only and the stat will be RCWYG only and set up as a 1H1C stat non heatpump and it will control the heatpump and electric heat. If you wire legacy (standard) you can wire up a heatpump thermostat and standard wires outside but the 12RC plug is unplugged and replaced, the RC power from outside will not be used.

@@johnstonecg I just got the model numbers. The air handler is AMVT42CP1400 Heat pump is GSZC703610.

It could possibly be the anti cold air fan delay. If you have a BVA20 AHU it cycles the blower off with low temp on the hot gas line. The board should have 3 blinks at his time. Turn SW6-3 to off on the BVA20 to disable that feature. You will have blower come on right away with call and may feel some cold air. at start of cycle.

@@johnstonecg it's an avptc61 and I didn't see anything like that in the settings. When I got into cool cloud, I have a lot of indoor unit can not communicate with outdoor unit. My first thought was the control board on the condenser.

So sorry I have you confused with another reply, No reason at all. Make sure the ODS is set to hp1 (or2)and the Y (Y2 if wired legacy mode) is connected to the board. if the outdoor unit is communicating with the 1 and 2 make sure the stat is in standard mode (1H1C) and not heat pump. Let me know on that Id be happy to help

@@johnstonecg thank you, I'll try that when I get home

In your climate during heat cycle, it would not produce enough BTUs to be of any help. during cooling the 2 speeds would be helpful, you would most likely not need all 4 tons most of the season. If you chose to leave it moving it to Y2 Y3 (Im not sure your model or ESP) the Unit is not really going to operate below 50% long and the OSU is a 5 ton set up as a 4 ton (only available in 3 or 5 ton) and the max lowest it will run is 2 ton and will most likely be at 3.5 ton most its life. So if your primarily heating just jumper Y1 Y2 for the heat season (add jumper in the furnace on control board leaving wires in place). The higher CFM will produce more BTUs.

So I should setup SW6-1,2 to ON in order to have fan speed at 3 (médium) with Y1 and fan speed at 5 (high) with Y2. Right? Thanks for support

Presently fan speed is 1 and 3. So less BTU.

@@fontainejean-philippe775 The Unit Btu output is based on the temp (related pressure) of the large line, either suction or hot gas mattering on mode. It will speed compressor up to maintain one temperature on the line, the more you speed up fan the more heat you remove from the exchanger making the coil cooler and in turn the compressor speeds up.

It is a departure from the format used by most other manufactures and I am sure a lot of test and review groups were involved. the important thing is in the back round it runs algorithm's properly. We are up to in excess of 3000 sold in my 12 stores and now launching Goodman and Amana Versions and to be honest have more complaints by percent from Nest, Sensi and Ecobee on the set up portion or the control portion. I think the future view is 'set it and forget it' .In saying that all three of the stats mentioned above user interface is by far better.

@@johnstonecg Mmm. Your experience is surprising. I just had it installed, so we'll see how things work out as time progresses. The algorithms working correctly is super important, and that's assuming I understand the goal they want to reach. I'm adjusting still. I'm finding the heater doesn't appear to be efficient when compared to my previous gas furnace, but that's hard to quantify. Comparing gas to electric isn't easy. Made a substantial dent over night into my back up batteries. I'm assuming AC will be noticeably better. I'm still adjusting and learning.

Thats a surprise statement on energy use, is your unit a Heat pump? I am not sure your area or temperatures but at .13 KW hour and 1.50 per therm NG we are close. Are you all electric heat? If you are a heatpump let me know we can give the Heat pump a bit more stage time and keep that back up off for a bit.

@@johnstonecg I'm new and the terminology is unfamiliar to me. I had a blower/furnace, so gas. I switched to the Daikin FIT heat pump invertor with air handler, so electric? Not Apples to apples i realize. but I remember using my AC with my old 9 seer unit and my solar app would show it using aprox 3.5 kwh. My new Daikin FIT HEAT PUMP using HEATER uses aprox 3.5 kwh. Yes, one was AC and the other heat. I'm told the AC will use noticeably less. I have my doubts, but we'll see. Original AC I'd watch for about 20 minutes to pass the initial startup. The Daikin, I had to wait for it to wind up and start blowing (it's slower). Yes, Daikin does wind down after temp is attained. But it still managed to put a huge dent in my battery storage (2 Powerwalls ) over night! I'm not sure what old AC would have done to Powerwalls over night. So I know I don't have apples to apples. But it seems like a lot. "Guessing" Daikin may have sucked down 14-15 kwh hours just overnight, probably more. Being as it's just reversed AC, I'd expect AC in the summer to be similar. I imagined/guessed it wouldn't have sucked down that much in a 24 hour period, let alone maybe 10 hours. I was surprised.

Yes it will function fine, Unico had AHRI matches in the past but may no longer have ratings if your looking for rebates. You would still use the Unico Coil.

D0 code can be corrected by data transfer, simple has connecting with unit (may show up as a shared data card). It will request model of unit and transfer data. If that will not function a data chip can be used (programable shared data) and is loaded on the Cr function of the menu. If none of this works for you let us know and we can do a short video on the data transfer. If your D0 is on a Unit over 5 years old and not bluetooth a standard chip can be ordered and is simply installed in data slot poer unit up 60 seconds and done.

The equipment is in constant pairing mode, you will not see it if something in the home has paired with it. I get this in lab when students pair with it it locks me out. Cycle the power and try to pair right away. If you still can not pair send me the serial number and I will see if a production run had issues.

A is for airflow so A05 is fan running at 500CFM

training @johnstonecg.com

As long as we are speaking of the Humidity setting and not dehumidify setting then yes both function with complete different set ups. Either a humidifier is added as equipment in the settings to Aux on subbase, and wired per instructions only, or in section 3 equipment the humidifier relay can be turned on. it is a dry contact on the board and operates with call when blower operates or in some cases turns on blower. If the set up is correct and the contacts do not close Daikin suggest flash the board but in my experience the board ends up getting replaced.

Any Johnstone would have the BTSC (blue tooth service checker) under part number B23-292, Daikin would use part number 999172T.

@@johnstonecg do we need training on the dchecker to purchase it and the service check 4 too???

Any Goodman / Daikin Distributor or Johnstone Supply near you should carry the Bluetooth Service Checker (BTSC), exporting the data to your laptop and importing with d checker 3 free software. You also can blue tooth with your laptop and the D checker 3 software directly. Service Checker 4 requires special training form Daikin and can only be purchased with a certification.

@@johnstonecg getting some weird looks around here. Lol

That series would not be the comfort bridge series. On a standard board a plug with legacy connections is all that's needed.

@@johnstonecg so your telling all I have to do is use the other terminal block ? I want to put a Nest thermostat. I know, I know don't ridicule me for doing so. The wife wants it🤷🏾‍♂️

yes, but the outdoor unit will need to be legacy wired as well. The board and outdoor unit will respond to the legacy signals and the comm wires 1 and 2 will not function.

@@johnstonecg alot easier than I expected, I wired it like a normal thermostat indoor on the extra terminal block.The blower worked, but the outdoor unit didn't kick on as you eluded to in this video. Haven't looked at the condenser but I'm assuming the condenser has the same terminal connectors as the indoor unit? I'd have to order another terminal connector like the one I have for the indoor correct?

@@dl7481 The outdoor unit gets the same 24 volts as the board. So Y will run high speed fan indoors and compressor outdoors. The indoor board does not tell the outdoor what to operate, that's done by thermostat. Your indoor may be running off the G signal for fan and the Y is not functioning? If you have a meter check for 24 volts between Y and C outdoor. If you have a separate transformer wired to R and C outdoors unhook it and use R and C from indoor.

The IDS18 and IDS20 do the same, although Y1 and Y2 can be used for 2 speeds. Yes this is different from all the other inverters I support but look at the SEER, SEER2, EER, HSPF they rival or exceed all of the other products. The variable blower is comfortable but when you have a room or two in your home with poor airflow and you slow your blower down? Then it is less of a benefit.

There up to 4 different communicating air conditioners and 4 heat pumps but all of them will have standard 208/230 connections for L1 L2 and a earth ground connection and should be plainly marked. with 2 of the models you can wire legacy (RCY1Y2OW) but if taking advantage of the indoor blue tooth set up your connections on control would be 1 and 2, never the R and C from inside on new equipment.

Sorry to hear about you connectivity issues. The last few years have been incredibly successful for the application with contractors I have worked with and is capable of any needed adjustment. The sensible heat ratio is set by the home and environment and is used to set blower speed, don't overthink it when it comes to a blower setting, if you need to verify it just use the delta of the temperature and humidity. I'm sure the app isn't for everybody but Goodman and Amana and some lower end Daikin product have partnered with Emmerson for production and adopted it for the long run.

@@johnstonecg Contractors do NOT have time nor understanding of all of these parameters. This is way over the top for complications. Again, this is just a thermostat with turn on turn off...this many menu items... is simply ridiculous and never used.

@@jonnymakers9560 What your explaining is stage up on timing and is no different than the old dip switch for stage 2 delay only you can adjust every bit of it down to the minute. It seems you have not entered the CFS menu and adjusted timing or the CFM settings for the 2 speeds. You are correct it is not a simple drop in and walk away. We are in customers homes for one thing, human comfort and this unit gives us the ability to customize every aspect of operation. We have contractors installing it every day with success but I have to wonder if its not what you wanted why the purchase? I think a review of the installation instructions can clear all the questions or issues you have posted or feel welcome to ask any questions on a specific setting.

Totally I agree with you. They make it so complicated...system should be easy to troubleshooting for any technician without going to call help desk or manual book that is not available most of the time and if it's there is not covering all this info..

@@abdorakeebnaji1527 I am an independent distributor and not Goodman but all the books are available from many websites or where you purchase equipment. The days of installing a piece of equipment and walking away are over, the ESP must be correct and airflow set to assure proper SHR. With the A2L refrigerants liability will be a factor in the industry and the responsibility of proper working equipment and safe operation on the shoulders of technicians. The HVAC technicians need every tool they can get and equipment like this offers that. None of would buy a TV and bring it home and its 10% smaller than advertised, we wouldn't put up with that and this type of equipment allows us to make a professional installation that meet all factory specifications.

You can not use the fan speed for dehumidification via the SHR but reduce the BTU output and increase cycle length. Using Y1 Y2, so 2 stage stat would do very well with the 20 SEER AHU. Just set the Y1 to about 600 CFM and Y2 to 800 CFM, if the thermostat allows you to latch on stage 2 do so. Still keep cycle rate of compressor at 1.

It is not a question if it was activated, it is part of the system. But in the set up the cfm can be set as well as a dehum profile to assist in de humidification. excessive airflow is the enemy of de hum.

@Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group how hard would it be to adjust the cfms and set up humidification?

@@jerryees If you do not understand the CFM and the relationship to de humidification I would proceed with caution. But if you down load the cool cloud app and talk to your unit or view all the settings before you do anything, at give yourself a chance to ask questions first you could be ok.

Other than remote view of an error I do feel it does lack. The other functions can be completed without need for adding the product. I have a small amount of experience with the control and app under a different name (product produced by Midea for Bosch) but have not ordered any of the Premium Connected series units.

You have all the benefits of an inverter with just one speed cool, as long as the CFM are correct for the BTU. Never enough time in the videos but having Y1 Y2 separate would be a discussion on velocity of air in your duct work. If the Bosch is added to existing ducts I am sure they were not designed to keep velocity high enough to get the recommended throw from registers. With an inverter I am a fan of a single Y if your not zoned.