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Absolutely! My name is John Van. I wish you were in the Los Angeles area....I could get you back up and working real quick. Even at a distance, We can troubleshoot and find faults.

@rileyandikeysplaytime5936 if I could get it to you I would I just want it fixed haha I am used to going on it everyday pretty much. I am a good learner and I can send you any vids you need and try whatever you need me 2! Thank you I appreciate it

I am happy you are inspired by my tinkering! I wish you the best outcome with your projects. My current project is a 1 year old Cannondale Treadwell Neo 2 Ebike. I bought it without battery, controller and flat tires for $250 at a swap meet. I went down to our local bike shop that is a Cannondale dealer, and found out "nobody can buy a battery charger, controller or battery without the serial number of the bike. Too many biked are stolen and thirvs buy parts and ride them. The prices also were crazy expensive. . This bike is the current model selling in the bike shop for $2,100! What I did was buy an Amazon controller, and 60 lithium 18650 batteries plus all the Nicole straps needed and built 2 batteries myself. The first battery fits in the frame tube 10 amp hours 36 volt battery. (20 cells) The 2nd battery is 20 amp hours 36 volt battery (40 cells) it will sit behind the seat on a book rack above the back wheel. I'm presently fabricating a good looking stainless steel battery box that will keep it safe. A punctured lithium cell will burn out of control and is very scary. Ive had a fire before and don't want to do that again! Anyways have fun with your project!

@RooskiRooski0 having the same suspension as a Tundra IMO is hit n' miss. Some years are the same then others are different from all the junk yards I've been through looking for all things Denso & Toyota Truck. Presently I'm needing a genuine Toyota driver's door lock actuator. I installed a Amazon budget copy of one 2 years ago because I didn't want to spend $170 at the time. I want my key fob to always work instead of hoe it does now...hit and miss.

@rileyandikeysplaytime5936 lol my front passenger door lock actuator just went out yesterday. But yes I understand what you're saying and makes sense.

@yoshawnsmith3573 I know a professional audio guy who told me "seriously" Jack up each corner of the truck independently and no jackstand... With a oxy-aceteline torch (have water or big extinguisher handy for emergencies and heat one spot of spring about 2 inches down from the top.....heat it till red hot then turn floor JACK handle rapidly and let truck slam down! Do this the same to both front springs back and forth till you get same height across front. Worst scenario, you go to junk yard and buy 2 used springs for $75 total price. He says the ride is not bad. Still had comfortable roll over bumps.

@yoshawnsmith3573 a knowledgeable friend says "With a floor JACK and a blue propane cylinder and torch tip he watched a guy jack up one front wheel ( place floor JACK directly behind one front wheel and pump floor JACK all the way up.) This will compress only one coil spring completely,,. With torch lit and maximum flame burning, heat the coil spring about 2 or 3 coils down from the top of spring. Keep flame directed to only one spot on spring. Just get that one little spot of spring glowing red red hot. Then very quickly put torch down safely and as fast as you can turn handle of floorjack and let that corner of truck slam down onto the ground. You'll for sure see the truck lower on that corner due to spring loosing it's hardness. Be sure to only apply torch only in that one little spot of spring. This is a good place to say HAVE A SOURCE OF WATER STAND BY IN CASE YOU HEAT A PIECE OR RUBBER UNDER WHEEL WELL.. A GARDEN HOSE AND A FRIEND DOING FIRE WATCH FOR YOU IS IDEAL. Now do exactly the same everything to the other front wheel. Same amount of heat applied to spring same everything. NOTE: maybe when heating spring for the first time, don't heat it balls out till it is super glowing. I'm saying this because that much heat could collapse the spring too much! Try to halfway heat it up. You can always do it a 2nd, 3rd time but if you heat it too much you can not go back on that spring! I have not done this way but I had him explained it twice to me in detail. He took his time and I learned this trick is from an old school Lowrider fabricator! A guy with years of experience lowering 64 Impalas and Regals ect.... I believe this trick was originally used on cars that already had been lowered but over time one corner of car sagged a noticeable amount. This was used as a quick fix leveling trick. Later it was successfully used on stock coil springs and got the right amount of drop by gradually letting the hot coil spring drop to the ground rapidly a bunch of times. This concept makes sense. You'll still have an ok ride because the majority of spring still has its flex and flex == good ride.

@@rileyandikeysplaytime5936 I should have said "Bagged Sequoia" so you wouldn't have to quote your entire video as if I didn't watch you talk about how long it took for you to slightly lower it.

@yoshawnsmith3573 There's the proof that I need to join that 12 step program....you know the one ...called "On and on and on!😍

Sorry for the late reply. Being dual motor your controller has 2 separate controllers in one box slightly smaller than this box. I'm going to assume your 48 volts (battery) If your bike has a display that shows battery percentage and speed your able to adjust the P settings by putting the controller into "programming mode". Usually it's by holding down the power and mode buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. From there your particular bike will have the sequence of settings listed on your owners manual. They are written something like P1= battery voltage P2= kilometer or mph P3= brightness of display ect... If your paperwork doesn't show the settings then scour the internet and look for the same controller and display you have. It takes little effort but you'll find it. Endless sphere e bike forum is also excellent resource for this and more info. I just picked up a damaged Cannondale E bike retails for $2,200 mine I bought for $300 with no battery and electrical problems. I put another $60 Chinese controller on it and a good 36 volt battery and WOW! This is the best quality and riding E bike I've ever had. My hub motor is 250 watt and I've over voted it with 1000 watt controller.i went through the P settings and adjusted everything to the highest power output it had. I also got rid of Candis (peddle assist) and now it has a throttle! Such a good trade. Throttle let's me give power when I want it, not when I peddle. Buying a replacement generic dual motor controller that has good power you'll spend $150 and it probably won't fit into original location like my current set up. But it will beef up take off power. If your bike is peddle assist only you might want to put throttle on your bike. If you bought the bike on Amazon you can easily contact seller and ask about throttle connection, P settings and get info to make better off the line power. It's always a trade off.. lots of power take off = not a lot of miles in 1 charge. Or low power = more distance on 1 charge. I hope this helps. In in Los Angeles area if you need more help I'm good with everything brushless motor. And I'll do work for 1/3 the cost a shop will charge! The best e bikes have "Mid drive" the motor is part of the peddles below your feet instead of in each wheel. Thanks for watching video.

Hey, ok good news for you! On UA-cam, type in Tuttio seeker 24 & 26 must know settings for the.... This video shows you everything I mentioned. P SETTINGS. WATCH HOW THE SEXY LATINA PUSHES THE BUTTONS TO GO INTO PROGRAM MODE. Your all set with her video. Good luck..BTW, She says 38 mph! Wow that is great.

Idk if it's related but it doesn't matter what upgrade the controller is as long as your motors isn't a high enough wattage you only got faster maybe better acceleration at best

Sorry for replying late..... I'm Not 100% tire literate, but I do know this. The very first number 265, let's say is literally 26 1/2" I do know that. The other numbers have to do with sidewall height (the measurement from the lip of your wheel up to the tires tread) and last number is actual rim circumstance (yours is 16) Watch a tutorial on UA-cam abut tire numbers and other markings. An important marking on all tires is the manufacture date that DOT mandates. When buying used tires many tire shops will not mount any tire older than 7 years old! I learned this one the hard and expensive way when some guy conned me into buying his tires that looked great but were over 7 years old. The rubber compound gets brittle and can disintegrate while driving at extremes from heat and pressure on the seams.

......You had to be there!

....You had to be there.......

I guess you had to be there

You had to be there......

The bumper sticker is of a half naked female pornstar that came from Porncom in Las Vegas! A hand out from the pornstar to fans and followers! Apparently these two grandma aged women spend their leisure time at porno conventions and are big porn video fans! Wouldn't you like to see the two of them in action late night in their living room performing disgusting sex acts on each other? No? We'll, me neither!

@ElMorroPerez FYI: The 1st gen non VVT 2UZ-FE is not an interference engine but all VVT engines are interference! Meaning a 1st gen timing belt breaking while driving will only stop running and leave you stranded...but Later VVT engines the broken timing belt will absolutely grenade the whole thing...valves hit pistons! I finally solved that argument after a buddy's 1st gen belt broke and was not catastrophic.

My thoughts are to simply cut the rear springs about 1 complete coil or circle. Use an angle grinder it cuts fast and doesn't overheat the metal. My front end I cut too much coil off. The A arm exaggerates the amount of coil you cut meaning 1" of coil cut will drop front end 2" and so on. I watched a UA-cam video where a guy made his own custom sized struts for his front end. He cut open the stock worn out strut at the top and inserted a thinner strut cartridge and it came out exactly how high he was looking for. I'm no expert but I'm gonna buy " coilover sleeves" and create my own adjustable coilovers. Look on Summit racing for Coilover sleeves UA-cam will show you basically how to assemble them. Fuck, I'm not spending 2 grand for new coilovers. Also unscrew your bumps tops on front end for more A arm travel. There's 4 of them that hit A arms on both sides. Good luck.

any update on cutting the rears ?

Let’s see a video of the rear I’m curious about doing this also

@LawrenceGerman OK, I understand that the front end springs you only cut 50% the desired amount your trying to lower the truck. So if I want to drop 4" I should measure 2 " of spring and cut there. Reassemble struts AND DO REMOVE ALL 4 BUMP STOPS ON FRONT BEAM. If you don't, I'm sure just a couple inches of suspension travel will be met with a hard WHAM!!. Spring bottoming out on bumpstop. They un screw so if yours doesn't interfere with ride then put em back on.

@LawrenceGerman I've got a set of Pro-Comp aluminum 20" wheels and Perelli P Zero 245 45 20 I think it is .middle number is wrong I think but the tires are super low profile like 3 inches from lip of rim to tire tread. And stock suspension my tires are still about 5 or 6 inches away from wheel well. I'd be ok with maybe 2 inches away from wheel well. I'm looking at Range Rover HSE older models and want that wheel to body look. After cutting 1 complete coil off my original front struts and removing bump stops, that's when I did video. I had it like that for the day but immediately ordered Amazon all 4 corners struts and shocks for under $200. I know if I drove it too low like that I'd get stopped by bored police....I just don't need attention like that. A reasonable lowering I can handle but on the ground won't work for me. I'd say anybody ready to experiment with lowering the front of gen 1 sequoia 2WD, only cut half of a full 360 degrees spring coil. Not a complete 360 degrees. For every 1 inch cut off front springs, you'll achieve double that much in drop. That's in the front due to pivoting control arms. The rear is very straight forward. But again here's a rear spring cutting tip.. Before any cutting, if you've been thinking the rear of your truck sags to one side a noticeable amount, take that amount into consideration when cutting rear springs. That sagging bit is more for Chevy 1/2 ton trucks with original worn out springs. It happens from years of accelerating and motor pushes opposite direction then flywheel rotates and it compresses the spring on one side as well as wears out same side motor mount more than other side mount.

Yeah, No One is trying to lower one of these. Mainly because they perform so well at stock height. I thought the suspension parts for a Tundra would work for this application and then use those to help lower it.

Gotta remove all the bump stops

There's a coil over sleve kit that will lower the front.

@organicportalphobic9601 I've been seeing in my mind all exterior stuff like running boards, mod flaps removed and just the tire an inch or so from going inside wheel well...stance would be entire truck sitting level....It's gonna make Range Rover snobs look twice! For the money, for the dependability nobody can beat a street Sequoia for performance! A first hen Sequoia with 160,000 is perfect truck for single turbo kit! 11 lbs of boost with a tune you'll be at 500 hp dependably! I'm at 317,000 and MI 1st gen doesn't leak, burn, any oil. Passes smog. It does eat a little more gas niwdays. I'm getting 13.5 mpg. But I'm ok with that.

I would go check it out there hard to get