Відео

And it even has software now :)

@@AndersNielsenAA Cool 👍🏿

I like that perspective :)

@@AndersNielsenAA well how else should it be describe? The only way to make it more in line with it is to include basic with a keyboard

There’s a link to it on my GitHub in the description :)

@@AndersNielsenAA I see the github just kinda overwhelmed but it. I think I need to use a arduino and then just build some stuff together. But not sure where to start I was given a 5150 project and while it works it needs a keyboard 😀

Yes, of course. The demo you see here erases the ROM, burns a new one, and reads it back for comparison - you can skip the first two parts ;-)

Thanks for your support! :)

Not the easiest to port to as it doesn’t have 5V tolerant IO - wouldn’t be too hard to make a RPDuino with level shifting tho :)

Thanks for watching :)

I like the 555 as boost regulator - haven’t tried that.. yet :D

I don’t think I’d use a Pi for sensors at all - more of an MCU task :)

Yes - I haven't tried though, so no software support. And of course it doesn't need 12V+ so it can be done on a breadboard easily - but the programmer would also be more practical.

@@AndersNielsenAA Okay thank you, I see you don't ship to the UK anymore however

@@afkafkafk luckily someone ordered a bunch of boards and is selling them on eBay :) More info on Discord if you stop by.

@@AndersNielsenAA Ooh I have just seen that, thats great, I am quite new to the concept of programming eeproms, the 28c256 has a different pinout to the 27c*, Is this something I can remap using software is it a hardware limitation? For example the A14 pin

@@afkafkafk Yes - they can be swapped in software.

Thank you. Kind of. The code needs to be changed to use another whole port, like PORTK, and it has to be wired onto it using jumper wires.. so kind of.

Thank you - there IS a link in the description :)

@@AndersNielsenAA I missed it. I'll try to find it later thanks

​@@AndersNielsenAA Found it. It just says sockets. I was expecting a more explicit link.

Thank you - it's not quite there yet but it's better than nothing :)

I doubt it - the design relies heavily on the JEDEC standard pinout of parallel EEPROMS - most pins in the same place.

Thank you 😀 The socket on the programmer expects the ones with the order: GND, VCC, SCL & SDA

@@AndersNielsenAA thanks but how many columns and rows?

@@whetphish SSD1306 based 128x64 ones :)

@@AndersNielsenAA many thanks - I've ordered one from Ali.

Thank you!

Thanks! :)

Thank you :) Yes, had no way to see what I was doing under the camera XD

Yup!

@@AndersNielsenAA Fedt elsker dit 6502 projekt

That's actually surprising, since I assume they have UV LED's - which are crazy expensive in the <260nm range. I guess I could've been unlucky that my T8 tubes were >400nm and the UV LED's are just low enough. Is it a lot slower than my 10 minutes?

@@AndersNielsenAA well mine has a U-shaped quarz gas discharge light on either end

@@VVerVVurm Ah! I believe I’ve seen those tubes too, those should work just like this - but the first many results from the markets show LED versions .. which I guess are also less effective at their advertised purpose.

Thank you :) I like to help where I can.

I think the school children might take offence with that statement :D I'm really not proud of my box - but at least it works.

And/or the lid too. Good idea!

Yup, I've noticed the T8's - actually I could've just replaced the tubes in my "UV-B" lamp with those but this was... somewhat insignificantly.. cheaper :) Wouldn't shorting all the pins make it worse - letting current flow where it doesn't belong? My logic can be very flawed. I wonder why the datasheets don't mention this.

@@AndersNielsenAA All UV erasers I have ever seen had conductive foam in the tray. I think the risk of photoelectric charge build up will be low. Shorted, resistive or open pins will probably all work fine.

Thanks for the insight - I didn't really have much experience to go on for this little project.

Thanks for your support!

It doesn’t do serial flashes - those are normally easy to do with an even cheaper CH341 style programmer @ 3-5V ..or just on a breadboard since it doesn’t require any higher voltages :)

@@AndersNielsenAA when I saw your zif socket, I doubt it can't program the serial flash, yes, it's true, I know serial flash would much easier, but you said almost every flash memory on the market. anyway thanks your reply..

Thank you :)

That would be 79DKK - not $79 :) And that also includes 25% Danish VAT (which isn’t applied if you login with an account from outside the EU) You can switch to Euros in the sidebar or divide by just around 7.

It doesn’t raise or lower VCC during programming or verification - as far as I know it’s rarely strictly necessary for a programming to stick. And if you need more reliability for those specific ROMs I believe a double programming might just accomplish that. But hard to know anything for sure with 30 year old EPROMs

That's interesting, I made my own progammer a few years ago and went to the hassle of two voltage regulators!! And you're saying I didn't need to? Darn it !! Lol

Thanks :) An 8748 not only requires 21V programming supply, it also requires an 18V pulse at the same time, and the pins in no way line up with a standard JEDEC ROM pinout, so that'll have to be a no for the 8748. I guess technically you could use two of these.. But that gets complicated fast :)

That's for <=5V serial i2c/SPI flash ROMs. This is for up to 32pin parallel EPROMs and EEPROMs with up to 27V programming voltage.

@@AndersNielsenAA its been a while since I looked at it and immediately realized I was wrong when looking at the pin count😶.

It does doesn't it. But I do think it'll be good to separate the addresses and control signals "high voltage" indicators. We'll see soon :)

Thank you :)

Funny :)

Thanks :)

🚥🚥🚥🚥 :)