Відео

I'm a full blown film nerd nowadays, it's just more fun than digital for me. Thank you for the encouragement, and for taking time and commenting. Have a great day!

The wonders of the Internet :)

Thank you! I did use T-Max developer, I've since switched over to Rodinal. And I do prefer Rodinal semi-stand for most, as it works as a compensating developer. This though, was developed in the standard dilution t-max and rotary-development in my jobo-tank. I'm not sure about the time, I think I did 9 min. But I forgot to note it...

@@O.Persson Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll give it a try. I also try to keep darkroom notes as well, but I don't always follow through with it....

I have great ambitions of being super careful, but more often than not, I end up just winging it and hoping for the best. Luckily BnW negative is often fairly forgiving :)

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.

Glad to hear it was helpful

Glad you enjoyed it! I don't know if I'm very scientific in my approach, I'm just a simple enthusiast, as you said :) I do highly recommend the naked photographer and his film comparison, for a bit more scientific approach. I think he done a stellar job to compare almost all BnW films on the market. Ludvika (and the whole of Dalarna) is beautiful! I do wish we had a bit more snow down here in the south. Have a great day!

I made a video recently for my process with Darktable. I use a tripod head that I screwed onto an old enlarger I bought for 120 SEK at a charity shop. The Lomography Digitaliza has a built in spirit level that you can easily take off and place on the camera. I use an old Canon EOS 7D I had lying around and it has a built in spirit level, though.

I'm going to check out your video. If you haven't tried aligning the camera with a mirror, I highly recommend it. Super fast and accurate once you get the hang of it. Unless the setup is up constantly, then it's kinda set it and forget it

@@O.PerssonThanks for the tip! I never shoot digital though, so it kinda just sits there. The enlarger makes it easy to raise and lower the camera just the right amount. I did notice after uploading said video that I majorly fucked up the colours in the photo I scanned for the video. A corrected image is linked in the description. I almost exclusively shoot b/w and hurried with the colour correction not to make the video too long. Anyway, great channel! I found it because I just inherited my grandfather’s old Ikoflex.

@@erikalvner not to unlike myself. I even did the same thing in my video. There's just something to B&W that I really like, and it's easier to print in the darkroom :)

Thank you for the kind comment. Glad it was of some sort of help! The lobster holder looks brilliant. I haven't tried one myself, just came across it on Etsy. But I'm intrigued, and might order one myself just to try it out.

Great to hear! I actually just cancelled my Adobe subscription, and switching over to Darktable. It's a bit of a learning curve, but I'm super impressed as well :)

@@O.Persson powerfull

thank you so much. I was thinking im getting crazy. Great video.

​@@chriscard6544 Sorry about that. And thank you for the support!

I know you already found it, just leaving a bit of a trace if someone reading your comment is wondering which video it is. It can be found here ua-cam.com/video/Dz3Lp1Y-YUw/v-deo.html

@@O.Persson reply for the algorithm

I'm inclined to agree. With the right expectation it's great. One needs to remember Instax is fairly limited in resolution power, and Instax wide isn't that much bigger than 6x9 (Instax wide is 10,6x8,4). If one wants the best colour photos, MF is probably a more sensible option (rollfilm-backs are available for LF-cameras). But it is an easy way of shooting some colour with a LF-camera, just because its cool and fun :)

@@O.Persson Yes, I also have to agree it is closer to MF 😀

Hi Stephen! The Jobo-system is nice, but expensive. I have one of the smaller tanks, it can hold 6 sheets of 4x5 or 9x12. I do rotary development on a homemade rotary base. I usually go with the times for constant agitation found on one of the big dev. charts, if it's available. Otherwise I just reduce the dev. times with 10-20 % I've gotten good results on LF, but unfortunately had some issues with some rather ugly streaks on 120 that I never figured out. So nowadays I do LF in the Jobo drum, and 135 & 120 in my Paterson with normal agitation or semi-stand. The Jobo drum is quite thirsty for normal agitation, mine take ~1,5 litres for normal agitation but only 275 ml for rotary development. Another option for LF development is the tanks from Stearmanpress, they look really nice. I went with the Jobo-system because I shoot both 4x5 an 9x12 cm, wich is supported native with the Jobo-drum. However I do think I'm going to order the tray developer from Stearmanpress, as it supports 4x10 and looks easier than doing normal tray development (a bit pricey though). I'm also a big fan of Adox, I think they do really cool things. I have shoot CHS100 II on 135, can't really remember any details more than that I liked it. And I do have a few rolls of it in my fridge , that I ordered not that long ago. Thinking of picking up a pack of it in 4x5 on my next order run of film. All the best! EDIT: I feel like I should add that I don't think it's the Jobo-tanks fault that I got some streaking on my 120-film. Probably down to uneven rotation, or something else that I did wrong. Nowadays I mostly shoot handheld and I'm fairly loose with metering on 120, therefore I've switched to semi-stand rodinal (wich is a good compensating dev. method) as my default developing method for 120. I therefore never actually figured out what went wrong with my 120-rolls (never done 135 in the jobo, as it only holds one roll).

Great to hear you're getting along with Fomapan and Rodinal. I find it an excellent combination, and very affordable. I have very little experience with HP5, as I'm not a big fan of it. Not that it's a bad film, on the contrary, it's just not to my taste. Rodinal can however be a bit temperamental at times. My theory is that's because it's highly diluted. I've personally switched over to 1-25 as my default dilution, but the Jobo drum I use only requires 275 ml of chemicals. Which means at 1-50 the actual amount of dev is very little, and even at 1-25 it's stretching it (I've read somewhere you shouldn't use less than 5 ml/roll or sheet). I'm getting better and more consistent results at 1-25, and Rodinal is still very cheap so I don't mind using that little extra chemicals. But as you said it could also just be over agitation. Have a great weekend! And as always thank you for the kind comment

Simple as that

Thanks for your comment, and excellent input! I'm aware of the prism finder, I want one, however not enough to pay the price for one. ;) I enjoy the waist level finder, and would probably still use that most of the time. Someday maybe... I've since recording this video started using the hassy more handheld, and landscape stuff on a tripod is nowadays primarily done on LF. I've locked at a 200-series camera in the past, but coulden't afford. But in my mind the most refined and decked out of the Hasselblads. Then again I do believe it was the last series before they switched over to the H-series of cameras. The H-series for me lost some of that Hasselblad charm.

This is very true. Happens surprisingly seldom for me though. But important factors to consider, and keep in mind especially when shooting Fomapan 100. As it falls off a cliff fairly fast.

It is a bit of an oddity that they differ so much. I have no idea why, though, but you might be on to something there. Btw. Kinda jealous that you had some velvia, I've never had the opportunity to shoot that. And nowadays it's almost impossible to get hold off.

Thank you for the support. And I'm glad it was helpful/interesting

That's true! Love myself som Agfa-film. I'm not sure in what capacity they still are around as. My understanding is that some ended up being bought by adox, but I still see some films branded Agfa. And Rollei RPX, is supposedly the same as Agfa RPX. German brands and their licensing, it always makes things so confusing. 😆

The effect might be tapering off at some point. I haven't read anything about it though. But an interesting observation, nonetheless. I've actually ordered a pinhole camera from Ondu, so we'll see how it goes for me :) I do semi-stand rodinal for most of my street photography (as I'm very loose with metering there), and happy with the results. Haven't tried it for long exposures though.

@@O.Persson I have many pinholes and one Ondu. I never tried semi-stand

Thank you for the support. Hope it was helpful and/or interesting :)

@@O.Persson it was both those things haha

The last time I heard, Agfa APX was being made in/at Ilford. I used to be a great "devourer" of APX, but then I discovered Foma 100 in 120 and that was my (so much used word) "gamechanger"... Too bad that Foma does not have the Ortho 400 on 4x5... I would love to see that!

Agreed, I would love to see some more ortho film on 4x5. And we are the same, considering how cheap foma is, it's great. The falloff in reciprocity failure and the somewhat ruffer grain is its biggest drawbacks, but it's by far outweight by its price and general performance.

This is very true, thank you for mentioning it in the comments! I do go into more detail about reciprocity failure in my blog-post, as I didn't want to go into details about it in the video. However, I could have been clearer in the video that this only affects us analogue nerds and our precious film ;D

@@O.Persson funny thing. I use film for myself and digital professionally (I'm one of the photographers on one agency of the European Commission) and I never look at it as a "film nerd". I actually have a tendency to see it as others being "digital nerds". I like the way they discuss between themselves that camera X has 800 autofocus points (when in reality you just need one and the camera only focus on a specific length), or they debating themselves which photo camera has the best video...

😆 that's one way of seeing it. And I agree it's fairly funny hearing people complain and discuss especially AF performance. And I'm like AF is to good today, it's no fun. Maybe I should just buy a bigger and slower larger format instead :D I did photography semi-professionally for a while, a small side-thing. All on digital (of course). Then the pandemic hit, and well since I've more or less moved over completely to doing it as a hobby and only analogue stuff.

Ohh. I must add I consider being a nerd a compliment :D

Seems like you have a quite robust system. Thanks for sharing! I myself slack on my notes keeping, all my film holders are marked and I do have a fairly decent system in place. But I keep forgetting to take proper notes once out in the field. Especially when I'm juggling video as well, even though it's a bit of a contradiction as that's probably when I should take extra care. I've heard good things about CatLabs, but it's almost double the price of Fomapan here in the EU (at least on retrocamera.be). And more inline with pricing of Adox, which I do like (not shot it in LF yet though). I like Foma for the simple reason they provide most of the different photography materials, like film, paper, chemicals etc. All have performed well enough for me. It's not as good as the Ilford stuff, but considering it's generally half price compared to ilford it's hard to beat price/value wise. I'm going to switch over to Fomapan 200 for LF though, it's already my favourite in the smaller formats. And I just finished of my last sheets of Fomapan 100, so next order will be Fomapan 200 and some Adox CHS. Reciprocity usually isn't a big factor for my kind of photography. It's rare I get exposure over 1 s, with a 100 or 200 -speed film. Thanks for the support and the useful comment.

Thanks for the encouragement. We all make mistakes, it's just part of being human.

You're right, I've never thought about it, but that should be for 6x9. But yes, I've shoot multiple rolls with the camera (maybe 20-50 rolls) and never had any issues att all. All have been loaded as shown in the video, and I haven't noticed that the frames been missaligned on the negatives. It's also how it's described in the manual, wich I actually have for this camera :) Small warning though there's multiple versions of the Ikoflex, and some even share the same name, so that's something to watch out for. Hope it was helpful, and the best of luck with the camera!

Thanks for the input! This old video still lives, I must admit my earlier videos contains the odd miss here and there. As you wrote, you can set the f-stop to half stops (I'll add in a correction), thank you for pointing it out! I agree about the CF-lenses, they are better suited for the 2000/200-series of cameras. My 50 mm is a CF-lens, much easier to use and match the camera better. However, it must be said that, the c-lenses are cheaper by some margin. Quality wise they are excellent, if one can live with the short comings and in some cases the lesser coatings. Have a great day!

Yes I did, sorry for the late reply. I've been on vacation and tried staying of Social Media/E-mail etc. Sometimes I just need a digital break :) It was great seeing though! What a great letter from Ansel himself.

Thank you! I've abandoned HP5 for now. I'm never satisfied with that film when I get the negatives. Technically speaking, it's one of the best and most versatile films out there; I just don't like it. Kenmare 400, on the other hand, gave me some of my favourite negatives from a camera ever. I ran a roll of that through my 35mm camera and pushed the film one stop (winter time). And as I'm writing this I'm ordering another pack of Foma 200 ;) That's great to hear! Looking forward to seeing some of the results (I do follow you on IG). I have some old Adox paper that still has some life in it, and I love it. I haven't tried the new stuff. But in general, I've been happy with whatever Adox produces. I've tried some of their (new) chemicals and films, and I'm sure the paper is also excellent. Hopefully, you get some digitalisation going; many options are available. Keep it simple, and as I think I mentioned, I would seriously consider the lobster film holder (found on Etsy). I keep hovering over the buy button for that. Even though I have the Pixl-ltr (for 4x5) and the Essential Film Holders (for 35/120-film). Neither is perfect, but they work well enough (and are fairly priced). I'm also considering buying an Epson V800/850 to save some desk space, as I keep leaving my tripod and scanning equipment up. It just doesn't look very nice in my office. All the best!

Agreed :) I never had the opportunity to try Polaroid 4x5, but I trust you own that :P As said in the video, I preferred the monochrom version, but then again I'm a bit of a BnW fanatic.

Thanks :) And I've seen that episode now, what a wonderful photographer she is. Might need to try and find some more of her photographs.

@@O.Persson Thank you or I'd never seen her work!

I made an honest mistake and accidentally calculated for each pack you buy of Instax containing 10 frames per pack. This is true, but they are sold in packs of two. As added as a flash card, in reality, I would say it's about the same cost (instax vs. fompan 100). (That excludes printing, and scanning the negatives at home, and assuming you already have the dev. gear.) I want to add that my point was that it's not significantly cheaper to shoot Instax over BnW negative film. If you are interested, here's the math (I also made a blog post about it) 50 sheets of Foma 100, incl. Vat costs €42.5 Cost per sheet Foma: 42.5 / 50 = €0.96 Jobo alpha developer and fixer, incl. Vat: €37 Developing cost per sheet: 37 / 50 = €0.74 (It will do 50 sheets according to specs) Total cost for fomapan 100 per sheet: 0.96+0.74 = €1.69 Cost of a 2 x 10 Instax Wide (colour) pack, incl. VAT: €13.42 Cost of Instax Wide per sheet: 13.42 / 20 = €1.35 Of course, the cost of developing will differ depending on your choice of chemicals and how many sheets you do each run. Another example: Rodinal 500 ml costs ~15 € I use 10 ml per dev run, and I can do 6 sheets on each dev. run*. 15/50=0,3 €/dev run 0,3/6=0,05 €/sheet Fomafix 500 ml costs ~ 7 € Mixes 1:5, and 1 l of working solution will do 17 sheets (according to specs). 500 ml will give 3 l of working solution 7/(3x17)= 0,14 €/sheet Dev cost Rodinal & fomafix: 0,14+0,05=0,19 € Foma 100 (still): 0,96 €/sheet Tot: 0,19+0,96€ = 1,15 €/sheet All prices are EU prices incl. VAT. (taken from fotoimpex or retrocamera, which are my resellers of choice) The cost of development will vary greatly. You can often stretch chemicals beyond specified numbers (at your own risk, of course). I would say a good approximation would be 1-3 €/sheet for development alone. On top of that comes the film cost. Fomapan 100 is the cheapest film I've found, and even so, it works beautifully and is what I shoot the most. So for me I would say the cost is about the same. If you instead shoot, for instance, slide film and have it lab-developed, that's another story. That I don't want to think about, luckily I'm a B&W fanatic :D Hope that was helpful! And feel free to correct me if I made a mistake! * note that using less than 5ml rodinal per sheet is not recommended. I do use, as stated, 10 ml for 6 sheets. So, I'm stretching the developer slightly. If you use 5 ml/sheet instead, that would be 0,15 €/sheet. And that would mean a total of 1,25 €/sheets instead Side note: I use tap water as a stop bath, and the final rinse is done with tap water and a few drops of rinse aid (for dishwashers). This is not included in my calculations. EDIT: I cleared up the formatting and the language.

I haven't seen that episode yet, perfect as breakfast tv :D Sounds like she's a photographer I would like very much. In general Denmark have some great photographers, and I personaly love the melody of the Danish language. But than again it might be some childhood nostalgia from growing up watching danish TV (growing up close to the danish border and all). On another note, you must soon seen all my videos. I love the support :)

Thank you! The last images where with the 50 mm as well. I can't say I noticed any big issues with difractions at f/22 with the 80 mm. I would say that it preforms best at f/8-f/16, but I don't hesistate using f/22.

Thanks! Great to hear! Bad wheater is often the best wheater for photography. Perhaps not always for the gear though ;) Regarding RC paper I do prefer the look and feel of fiber, but RC is much faster and easier to use. According to a couple of old books from Pär Lundqvist (Swedish photographer who wrote a lot of books about darkroom stuff back in the days), he claims RC papers longivity problem was mostly a myth with "modern papers". With that said I do have a local exhibition (street photography actually) comming up in september, I'll probably print on fiber paper for that. I'm thinking of ordering some Bergger Prestige Variable CB, that I haven't tried but I have high hopes.

@@O.Persson Wow, Congratulations on your exhibit in September - what a Birthday present! Looking forward to that video! I am starting to think that Par Lundgvist is correct and the bias toward RC may be unfounded. I think it was co new in the 1970's and RC has probably improved since then as well. It is a lot easier to develop I will try out a batch at least for contacts and try to locate Mr. Lundgvist books although they may not be in English! I received a letter from Ansel Adams concerning RC back in the 70's, which I treasure, and will sed to your email if that's okay? Not sure how to post here.

I don't think Pär's books ever was translated to English. However his book "Foto min Hobby" (translates to, as you probably can guess, "photo my hobby") is pretty much the standard for learning film-photography, and was used by many schools and photo clubs back in the days. I remember it vaguely from my school days, I did take a class in photography and film was still the norm. How cool to have a letter from the master himself, I would love to read it, feel free to e-mail me (the email can be found on the front page of my channel).

@@O.Persson Yes, I looked him up and only one book was in English but it was more about Line work whatever that is. I am going to try and learn a bit of Swedish. We have been watching Scandinavian mystery shows like Backstrom, Wallender, Rebeka Martinsson, etc... and find them very, very well done. We hardly watch any North American TV, I generally don't like much from here, and watch UK and European shows. Yes, I'll email you the letter right now. Keep in mind I was 20 at the time and I believe AA was just being kind to a youngster as he was and encouraging me... which he did!

Thanks Stephen! Didn't know lingonberries where a thing in Canada, the more you learn. Cloudberries I had to google the translation for, that's really rare in my area, fairly common up north though. Love me some cloudberry jam :D The images from that day where some of my best with the X-H2, and probably the second to last time I used the X-H2 for photography. I also photographed a dance event, but after that it's been all analouge. My initial idea was to use the H2 for colour and do B&W on film, but instead I've became alomst exlusive BnW film photographer. Cheers!

@@O.Persson Hi Oskar, We pick Bakeapples aka Cloudberries in August so I'll see about sending you a sealed jar of our Cloudberry jam for your Birthday in September! We pick Lingonberries AKA Partidgeberries in September usually after a frost (like like the veg Brussel sprout, they are sweeter after a frost). Just had a Lingonberry muffin from my sister in -law from last years berries (we freeze some for baking and future jam every year).

@@stephenwiseman3780 that would be something that :D

Love myself some Tri-x, expensive though as with all Kodak film (at least over here).

The 500's are the famous camera, and the bigger legend. However the first system camera from Hasselblad was a focal plane shutter, so I like to think that the 2000-series is Hasselblad return to it's roots :)

@@O.Persson Indeed, plus you can use leaf shutter lenses if you want with the 2003 FCW. It is a superb camera.