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Service A is engine oil, air filters, and inspection. Service B is A plus transmission fluid, fuel filter, differentials and transfer case fluids, and brake fluid.

Real

Do the air filter and cabin filter at the same time!

Happy to help!!

😂😂

I was able to get Xentry from a forum. If you do some digging around you’ll be able to find it. The oil pan does not need to be replaced or even removed.

Sorry for the late reply! They still work great! No issues. Two minor notes: the magnet switch in the sliding door has to be placed just so. We had some issues early on with the step deploying over bumps when the door would jiggle. We adjusted the magnet a couple times very slightly and the issue went away. The other thing to note is that if the battery gets low the steps may fail to deploy. In that case, usually the system will need a “hard reset”, which we accomplish by removing and reinserting the fuse. We haven’t had to do this in a long time since figuring it out.

Sorey you feel that way 😂

@@OutofIpswich 🤣

That's so weird - I didn't see your comment at all! Sorry about that. Comments aren't super reliable all the time. But anyways, it sounds like you have the same symptoms as we had. Regular driving, usually after a short warm-up period, it would start to squeal in the rear and would vary with vehicle speed. If we applied the brakes, the squeal would stop. I believe I narrowed it down to a design flaw. I don't have any confirmation of this, but it LOOKS LIKE when they changed the parking brake from cable-actuated to electronic, they didn't remove part of the casting on the axle flange that was part of that system. If you take your rotor off, you'll see a big nub sticking out that does nothing. On our van, that nub had clear signs of metal to metal contact. It was rubbing against our rotor inside face ever so slightly. Whenever we'd apply the brakes, it would move the rotor just enough to break contact and the squeal would stop. I put Power Stop rotors on and applied some grease to the worn part of the axle flange nub and it hasn't made a noise since. If you're at all inclined, you can replace your brakes for way less than $2500. That's ridiculously high in my opinion.

Thank you so much! I think MB knew all along, but still pretended they didn’t and made me change the front at only $1500 to “isolate” the issue. They am not sure I visualize what you are describing, I would be curious to change the brakes myself, but I have never done it on a modern car that I use on long distance with the family, so I am a little scared. When changing the rotor, how can I know the noise is not going to reappear? The grease is enough? Isn’t there a part that is better designed?

​@@EdTwoMRif the rotor offset is slightly different, it could alleviate the issue. It could be as minor as machining tolerances. I'm not really sure that the grease did anything at all, to be honest. You could file down the nub if you want to be totally sure it won't come back.

@@robertwcote Thank you so much for these answers. It really helps me understands better what is going on. Overall I absolutely love my sprinter, but MB is a real pain to deal with and between the EGR valve getting clogged, the automatic sliding door not always working fine in winter and now that brake issue, I am quite annoyed.. I wish Toyota would make a good looking van like the size of the Sprinter.. 🙂

Thank you so much! It has held up very well so far. No complaints!

So happy you found them helpful! We love it when people choose to do it themselves.

Okay! No one says you have to.

Glad it was helpful! That cover is tricky the first time!

Woohoo! You're welcome!!

@@OutofIpswich hey! After doing the change, the parking brake stopped automatically coming on. Did this happen with yours?

​@@tylerdawsey377nope! Did you unplug it?

@@robertwcote turns out it was a loose connection on the front right ABS sensor!

You can do it!

Great tip! Thanks for sharing

All wonderful ideas!

Thank you! Hope it helped!

i am gonna do mine on my 2020 sprinter next week only question ihave is buttons to reset parking brake motor would be nice to have videoed that cause weather its sound i cant make it out claearly ty Bro

Thank you so much! We'll travel again, we're not sure when yet

Hey you guys!! Thanks for watching!

At least we know it was never going to fall out on its own! How satisfying it feels to have done it yourself though!

No, it's not.

Ok, wanna explain how does the electric handbrake motor make the rear brake work when the are on?

@@thequattro20v It squeezes the caliper onto the rotor.

@thequattro20v @OutofIpswich - to clear it up for future readers, electric handbrake indeed applies force on a caliper, using same brake pads as your normal pneumautic hand brake. Model with manual, old fashioned mechanical emergency brake, indeed has separate braking pads called "shoes" which are semi circles, applying pressure from the inside, against inner walls of your rotor's central hub. Those also can be replaced if you already have your rotors out. It is important to recognize it, because of this difference rotors for models with electric vs manual parking brakes look different, you want to check before ordering. Also, for duallies, rear rotors do not have this hex retaining bolt, they are just held by wheel bolts. Lastly, also for dually models, you will need to tackle one more set of stubborn bolts holding up wheel flanges, those remind of wheel spacers, allowing for different positioning of wheel retaining bolts.

I'm pretty sure I just used a properly sized common 12-point box end wrench.

@@OutofIpswich That's a good idea. Its an e10 6 point Torx bolt, but the 12 point wrench should work by division.

@@chasealstott1 It does!

Thanks so much for sharing!

Great recommendation! Thanks for sharing

You can easily do this with just a Velcro strap if you wanted. In case you've never worked with gas struts before, the ends disconnect simply with just a small flathead screwdriver or similar prying tool. There's a spring clip on each socket, which just needs to be slid out of the way, then the socket can be pulled off the ball. I'd suggest disconnecting the lower joints then secure the struts to the bed frame with a Velcro strap. It might be slightly difficult getting the rear ones on and off the ball (those seem to carry the most load), but if you pick up on the bed while you do it, that should help make it easier. Good luck!

I like to follow existing cable pathways whenever possible because they're in areas deemed safe by the manufacturer. Also, it keeps the cable safe from road debris. Those were the main factors.

@@OutofIpswich fair 😊 thanks

I think the recommended service interval is 40,000 miles. It's been a while since I looked it up, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's commonly included in service B, which is a 40,000 mile interval.

I just go until my old wrist clicks

It's convenient to not need to jack it up!!

Thanks so much for sharing!

Hell yeah! That's the best feeling! Thanks for sharing and we're so glad to help.

You could! Do we know who the OEM is for the air filters? I suspect it's probably Mann. The filters shown here fit correctly, you just have to not be an idiot like me as you're installing them. Once they're in, they're great. I just struggled to get there.

Try rockauto.com. You may want to know the part number on your original filter if you want to do an exact replacement, since there were different filters used for different regions of the world. The part number will be marked on the outside of your filter; you'll have to lift it out of its bracket to read it. The OEM is Mann, if you want to stick with the original brand.

Hey John, so glad we could help you out. We love that feedback!! The transmission fluid goes in through the drain hole. Sorry if that wasn't clear in the video. There's a tube around the hole inside the pan (when you take the pan off, it will make way more sense). The tube sets the depth of fluid so you can't overfill the transmission. Just add fluid until it runs back out, with the engine running, and then replace the drain plug.

Great question! You can measure the rotor thickness to ensure they're still within the specified dimensions. If they are, best practice is to resurface them so they're nice and flat again. This allows the new pads to work properly with the old rotors. I always do both rotors and pads because it's only a little bit more cost, but less effort to not have to bring the rotors to a shop to be turned. Plus, new rotors will give a longer service interval over reusing the old ones.

Yeah it was out of control to remove the front rotors. The new stuff has been outstanding for about 25,000 miles! Very happy with the Powerstop hardware. It's clean, quiet, and stops great.

I'm not sure if the NCV3 uses the same front differential as the VS30, but there seems to be an issue with the front driveshaft input seal on the later models. The seal is not available to purchase anywhere. Our whole front differential was just replaced under warranty to remedy the leaking seal. I think the differential is around $4,000 If you can do it yourself, but it requires removing the entire front suspension and subframe.

Thanks for sharing! Guess we got lucky as it hasn't been a problem in 25,000 miles!

@@OutofIpswich There were enough adverse incidents from mechanics just twisting it out of the way that they issued bulletin V-B-09.00/01

You're very welcome! We're so glad it helped you! Thanks for writing.