Відео

This is Jason Perry BTW.

I don't think so. I just took it easy for the first 400Km's (250 miles) or so... Not sure what others think or know.

It's largely similar to the Vince Bar.

I am really happy with them so far, it is a totally different car now. The sway bar links that came with the kit were a bit too long. I had to pickup adjustable sway bar links for my fitment. It could have just been a packaging issue, not sure really. I think the value for the money is amazing with this product!

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 How do you like them for street use? I just installed. At low speeds over bumps it rides like crap. The initial stroke is too harsh.. I have mines set at 7 clicks from soft. Freeway speeds its ok.. by no means plush. I have the triple s street coils also. I may go with regular lowering springs with koni or billies. You would think close to a $1k setup would ride just as good as oem. It knocked one of my kidney grill out on the road after a bump.. those are crap also..:)

@@bpowa I agree, very harsh on street. I have mine at full soft on street, and 3 clicks from soft on track. The springs are quite a bit stiffer than OEM and also have a linear spring rate, so not as much initial give. This helps tremendously on track for reducing body roll and nose diving. For street only use for lowering, there are likely better options out there with softer / variable spring rates. Thanks for the comment!

Yes, I used WPC treated OEM bearings. It is my understanding that the WPC treatment process does not alter the dimensions. The journals looked great, no issues for me!

any chance you can answer this question? ^

thanks! was about to take the collar nut off to get the jaw puller on it to pull off the output flange, but my 30mm deep socket was too small.. this helps so I don't have to guess :)

Did you do it?

My end links didn't fit well, maybe I was shipped the wrong ones?? In the end I replaced them with adjustable end links... I am really happy with these coil overs!

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 can you share you center of wheel to fender length on the front or difference between bottom to top small perch on the front coilovers? I'm thinking 13.5" or 13.0" center of wheel to fender height on the front for the track. Thanks.

I wouldn't think so, in this part of the video series you are coming in from the top and connecting to the top of the sleeves that the subframe bolts connect through. In part 1, when we are welding the enforcement plates, the forward mounting points are quite close to the tank. We removed the tank in that case for safety (and also to replace a rusted brake line).

Sidewaze Motorsports Alright thanks for the response. Due to limited time and resources I’m also wondering, without adding the plates on the bottom if I were to fab up a subframe support from the top of the mounting points as you did would that be sufficient to take the load off of the floor board; or at least distribute the weight enough? I currently have no cracks, this is preventative.

@@QQ-hm4nu In my opinion, I think the plates on the bottom help prevent any existing separation to spread, but don't really solve the problem. With the subframe properly supported to the chasis, there should be minimal force / deflection in the floor (/ rear axle carrier panel) which is the cause of the tearing and weld failure. I would probably do the same if I had to make a choice, ie, properly support the subframe with a custom or after market brace and monitor for cracking and tearing.

Sidewaze Motorsports Okay sounds good thank you for your help and the quick responses, keep up the great content.

Thanks! I need to figure out a custom panel to cover where the rear seats were. Still thinking about what to do there...

Thank-you. I'm hoping it will be useful information for someone... the great thing about the Internet is you can share, learn, and connect with so many people around the world. Cheers!

Love the sound of a Corvette!

I would definitely check the constant pressure valve, which is known to leak. Perhaps you can inspect the area of the engine where the CPV goes in, although it is difficult to see. I just did everything since I had my car up on the hoist anyway doing the rod bearings... It might be easier to start with the CPV unless you know for sure it is transmission fluid.

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 Should I still check my CPV even though there is no residue around it?

I can see your point. Thanks for the comment!

Hmmm.... do you mean the cost of material for the Rig, or all in including the Fanatec gear and fabrication labour? Not sure if I want to state the latter on a public site.... 😏

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 Yes, we'll call the rest sweat equity :) I can only assume it was a fraction of the cost of purchasing one, and much better built.

@@DuaneAvery Probably in the $75 CAD range... I don't recall the specifics, I bought other material as well for fabricated race seat brackets for the M3

Brad Black thank-you! It was an interesting job, and you don’t see this repair online that much. 👍

Absolutely! Almost as good as the racing duct tape! 😂

Looks good so far, I will be able to inspect more easily in March when I put it back up on the lift to do the rod bearings. I think the cross bar I added under the floor solves the problem; everything else not likely necessary. The strut brace is for reducing body flex only. With the bar under the floor all the forces are now transferred to the boxed chasis rails directly versus a thin panel which is prone to tearing. With reinforcement plates only (and no bar) the stresses transfer to where the rear axel carrier panel connects to the outer body in the wheel wells, so you would have to keep an eye on that. look for popped spot welds. Sounds like you are going to be rocking a killer tune! Sounds exciting!!

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 Nice ! Very much appreciated feedback ! I did go on the M3 forums and read a ton of threads that go in-depth just so I understand the issue completely. Definitely going for plates+ top mount bar for rears and something for the front mounts aswell, either CMP auto engineering's solution or Vince bar+ front cups or alternatively might aswell ask my father to fabricate some of the stuff rather than spend a fortune on a ready setup. Aye, the 3 liter diesel is quite exciting once remapped and sorted but they are torque monsters and that's what's worrying me the most that the rest of the car won't handle it, haha..

I have 330d project, different nozzles, r90 mod, gt2365v, big fmic,"race" clutch, quaife diff,bilstein coils. Rear end is next work to do, i already ordered those plates but do i need more reinforcement, strongflex bushings are going in

It is custom. I posted a video on making it. We first welded a cross bar under the floor connecting the rear subframe carrier to the chassis rails. Then made a removable rear strut brace which you can see in the video. I can remove the brace and still have full protection from tearing on the rear axel carrier panel. For good measure, I also welded on the re-enforcement plates. It was a fun project with my son and friend. We have a really exciting winter build coming up this year as well. Thanks for the comment!

@@sidewazemotorsports1529 I love people who take initiative! I on the other hand have opted with CMP engineering's topside reinforcement and front side reinforcement with reddish plates to maximize trunk space!

@@ninofajardo1288 Nice, that kit looks sweet! I did something similar under the floor, but not as beast! At least we can both rip it without any worries... Cheers mate!

Brad Black thank-you Brad, it was fun making it! 👍

Went well... He is getting pretty good with a wrench. Key is to be patient and try to remember how it all goes back together! LOL

Thanks for the comment Felix, I appreciate it. It is pretty cool having a hobby we can share together. Also handy, I am going to the track this week-end and he helped my prep by changing the air filter and all the spark plugs! 😎

Thats awsome man i know hell appreciate it as he gets older, have a good one!

buy a replacement. I have the same. part number is 32416774215

Why do you have coolant leaking from a power steering hose is my first question

Are you referring to the timing chain guide (that commonly breaks - I called it a tensioner in the video) or the actual timing chain tensioner (large bolt like part, requiring a 32mm deep socket to remove) ? In my case, when we replaced the the broken chain guide we did have the cam's locked in place with the special tool, and did remove the exhaust side cam sprocket. As a result, our assumption was that we would need to re-establish timing so proceeded on that basis. I would think you would need to re-establish / check the timing anytime the sprocket is removed from the cam for sure. Again, I'm not a mechanic, just our own experience in how we did this following both the ECS and Beisan job aids. BTW, I am in GTA my buddy is in Eastern Ontario. It is so worth it, my engine is so much smoother and pulls more consistently. All the best!

I am halfway through, vanos on the bench doing seals and pump. I cannot see the bottom of the top chain guide at this point, I would need to remove the exhaust splined shaft and get the timing chain out of the way. I was asking about the chain tensioner as I think there's a leak and I wanted to change the gasket, but now that I've read about the chain guide I'd like to have a look too. I think it's not convenient to buy the cam tool though as I would not have any use for it after... of course I could try to sell it, but I'd rather borrow/rent it. I just can't find any in my area, I've asked on the forums and facebook groups but no results :(

Right, yeah I don't think swapping that out would be an issue... It is pretty tricky getting in there. I recall my 32 mm deep socket is half inch drive. We cut a small piece of half inch square bar to put inside the socket so we could get a half inch wrench on it. As you say, you can replace the crush washer or try tightening it up a bit.