Відео

NOS might be a stretch when its still listed online in their current catalogue. At our shop we are sold out of all sizes now now but there is still some available stock to order at the distribution. Most bike companies don't stick to a new model/colourway every year anymore, so yes it may have been introduced around then but it was still current inventory for the past number of years. I think its worth the listed price honestly but it sounds like you are hunting for a deal? Depends on how bad you need a solid touring bike!

Love those bikes! Sadly those bikes are super rare in Canada. The good news is if you wanted to increase the load capacity - the travoy could work with that bike too!

I've seen people try to replicate this with an actual dolly. And it works although it doesn't fold and would not roll smooth or fast at speed and would also be quite loud. So for short distances that might be an option but also you need to devote time to build and troubleshoot your design. I honestly think for the quality of this trailer - it's pretty fair! It's made well and has a ton of features and folds up small. What's the alternative? Pay for a cab? Buy a car? Haul your stuff on the transit? I think this trailer would pay for itself if you need to move stuff regularly!

Seems obvious but I've had to remind drivers of this far too many times as well!

I've seen people retroactively punching holes to add laces with some success, but generally that splay shouldn't happen unless the saddle has gotten wet or perhaps run at a low tension for some time. Some people even trim off those sides entirely. But if there are already deforming I think there's not much to lose at this point!

Care to elaborate?

Riders always should exercise caution when "handling at speed". According to Burley's manual- the recommended max speed is 24km/h on smooth straight roads and should decrease to ~8km/h when turning. Just like a trailer on a car or truck - it depends greatly on how it is loaded for what is safe. Single wheel trailers will be more stable at speed but the convenience of the Travoy in an urban environment is where it really shines and 24km/h in the city with a cargo trailer is quick!

Totally agree. Single wheel is amazing off road. I've used a bob for many years and I love it for touring and even some more adventurous rides but it feels clumsy in the city exactly where the travoy seems to excel. Its like this lovely little "last meter" from bike to home or from shop to bike where most trailers are not nearly as neat (or enjoyable) to pop on and off and also continue onward without the bike!

I think cargo trailers often get forgotten in the urban mobility discussions. Cargo bikes are obviously amazing but cargo trailers are a nice stepping stone!

We go over the rail sizing in detail in this video. @07:37 But yes unfortunately some ebike manufacturers are not using standard shapes and sizes for their racks now which is unfortunate! But the good news is Ortlieb makes an adapter to solve this issue- if your rack uses up to a 20mm round rail you can use this adapter that we also stock and sell www.ucycle.com/ortlieb-part-pannier-2-ql21-hooks-with-larger-20mm.html

Hey sorry for the misunderstanding. There was a brief time it appeared that our Canadian distribution stopped importing and stocking them. Turns out they forgot to categorize it as a rack...so it was not visible to order in their catalogue. Just a simple human error! Once that was resolved we could reorder these in. No ill intention, just trying to be transparent with our customers!

Its been a while since we filmed this - it may have been a small? But you should check the sizing chart for reference and go do a test ride at your local Marin dealer to confirm the fit is right for you.

@@urbane-cyclist I checked with all the bike shops in my area (Southern California) and unfortunately they don't stock Marin Muirwoods bikes. I have to buy it online and have it shipped to the bike shop to have assembled. And from what I heard from bike store employees, either I can't return it or I can but I have to pay for return shipping. I have been eyeing the small Marin Muirwoods. The geometry looks good for me but I know different sizes have different angles and I am kind of picky on those details and wanted to see what a small looks like.

You know what, I just rewatched the video and you (or the person in the video) said specifically that these are small frames (at 3:10)

Both the D7i Node and Link have horizontal dropouts so no need for a tensioner. I don't really specifically address that in the video as the language around horizontal/vertical dropouts can be a bit confusing for novice/more entry level viewers and my goal was to share as many fact without getting into the weeds or confusing folks! Sorry for not clarifying -Owen

@@urbane-cyclist Thanks for clearing that up. You did a great job on the features of those bikes. Not having a tensioner is another plus feature. I should have realized Tern would have already figured that out. :)

The most important factor is comfort so you can *keep riding*. The majority touring cyclist tend to choose a more "slow and steady" approach. More aero... can mean "faster", but can also lead to more strain which may hinder your overall performance and speed for longer trips. Riding faster also burn more calories so you'll need to fuel harder which can also drag down your average speed. So if you are talking long haul riding "more aero" or a more aggressive position wont always be a considerable improvement (obviously super upright positions catch more wind and will be slower but most aero dynamic advantages are not significant under 25kms\h which most touring cyclist would not be averaging above).

@@urbane-cyclist I appreciate the response. I would like to push back a little on a couple of points though. More aero (less drag) does indeed mean faster, but it's also more efficient. Youre expending fewer calories to travel the same distance, faster. Not more calories. Also, there seems to exist this idea aerodynamics only "kick in" above certain arbitrary speeds, which is absolutely untrue. The degree to which it is effecting the rider scales obviously, but to say that under 25kph (16 mph) it isnt significant is so ridiculous I'm wondering if it was a typo. At that speed aerodynamic drag is by orders of magnitude the greatest force of resistance the cyclist is fighting against. I think youre thinking of aerodynamics as "speed" when it might be helpful to instead think of it as "fuel economy". And as far as comfort goes, thats so subjective it's impossible to base anything on. The people who ride the most miles every year generally do it on race bikes, with comparatively aggressive riding positions. Theyre not uncomfortable in doing so.

So for clarity - nothing I said is untrue - you are taking some generalizations and tendencies I've noted and tried to make them absolutes which will make them "incorrect". This is a shades of grey situation not black and white. Aero *does mean less drag* but *riding faster means more physical effort and yes that means you burn more calories* - this is well known and documented in ultra endurance racing as well and randonneuring. The extra physical effort to go faster is not in perfect balance with being more aero - *you will burn more calories riding faster*. And touring bikes tend to weight considerably more (when on tour self supported) vs high milage roadies. And a weekend warrior roadie usually take time off between large efforts vs touring cyclists that tend to ride back to back continually. Before you want to continue to discuss this in the comment section *aero discussion on touring bikes is frankly kind of silly* and you probably are not looking at the right bike if these are the things that you are considering when shopping.

@@urbane-cyclist I guess what Im trying to say is that aero discussion on touring bikes *shouldnt* be silly. It should be (and i think will be in the future) an important consideration for any serious touring cyclist or randonneur. Im just trying to introduce that discourse.

There are no rules - The UCI doesn't have any say in touring bikes spec. Anything can be a touring bike (you can do whatever you want). Buying a recumbent with a compound gearing and a fairing will be the way to get what you are after if #aeroiseverything for you.

A fan fave! A popular choice!

Right on!

Your best bet is always a test ride to verify. But yes you can lengthen a stem easily but there is a logical limit to how short a stem can go. There are exceptions to going smaller but typically on a loaded touring bike being able to comfortably stand above the top tube is important. If someone has exceptionally long limbs proportionally for their height and is in between sizes - that is the exception to going smaller.

check the standover height. The medium DT has an 800 mm standover. Which is taller than most large and some extra large bikes

I'm going to answer your question two ways. Your maximum load, according to Marin, for the rider alone should stay under 300 lbs, or 136 kg, but the maximum load for any luggage you'd like to carry on the bike, via handlebar bag or saddle bag, should be under 30 lbs, or 14 kg, even if you as the rider are under 300 lb. These are separate categories. So even if you're a 120 lb rider, you should still keep your cargo load under 30 lbs. When you add accessories like front and rear racks into the equation, you have to make sure you stay under the weight rating of the rack AND the bike. So, if you're a large person and want to carry a lot of cargo, this bike would not be the best suited for it. The second way I'll answer your question: You should try a cargo bike if you're looking to carry a ton of stuff. If you really want to carry larger loads using the Nicasio, you should try using a trailer. We've got another video up all about trailers if you're interested in learning more.

Thank you for this precise explanation!

It does! You can eat it! It can be eaten!

Yeah, it goes great while chanting "Cthulhu fhtagn! Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah-nagl fhtagn".

🐙

technically I think Nitto had some Campee front racks, and the Velo Orange (discontinued?) Campeur but these are still little platforms not nearly as utility driven as these Pelago Commuters! I personally think the Medium size is SUCH a good sweet spot for being big enough without getting in the way when not in use.

Surly has had one a long time if that qualifies as a large platform. Tubus makes a similar option as well as Nitto

@@michaelviglianco6121 I bought a large pelago one to my surly bridge club, i love it, but unfortunately i wasn't able to install the low rider support as it cannot fit the bridge club.I think i will order the surly front rack later.

The Fargo has a much taller front end so if you are sitting in a headwind on the road...not as favourable. But I know lots of people use the Fargo as their all-rounder setup and if max speed on the road isn't a concern the Fargo will work fine. But keep in mind that more upright you are the more your chest will act as a wall to catch wind and the faster you try to go-the more you'll feel it! So if comparing the Fargo/Marrakesh - I would opt for the Marrakesh for more road oriented riding and the Fargo if you wanna get into more rough stuff, but both are still fairly capable on just about everything IMO. -Owen

Yeah the Orox totally screams adventure. It's almost hard not to daydream a little when you start to appreciate how capable it is!

Respectfully...no. that's a considerable time commitment on our end! If you have questions about it please leave them here and I will gladly respond to your comments 👍

Depending on total rider/bike weight along with tire size pressures will vary. I would not start with a number- but I would first make sure you have either a pump with a gauge or a pressure gauge. The way I like to setup my tires is mainly by feel- Wider tires are going to be higher volume a generally be lower pressure while narrow tires would be lower volume but require higher pressure-if you rely on numbers too much you may be WAY off if you change your tire size or swap to another bike with a different size. I aim for the sidewalls of my tires to slightly flex out ward under load but not fold or collapse while cornering. The best way I have found to do this is stand beside your bike hold the brake of the tire to are testing and lean onto the saddle (like you would lean onto a counter) try to get a decent amount of your body weight on there and watch the side of the rear tire - you'll want to see a slight deformation on the sidewall where it meets the ground (just a little bit) this means the tire will absorb bumps but not flatten out if you hit a bump. You can adjust this lower if you are riding more off road and want more traction or harder if you want it to feel faster for tarmac. I would do a similar test by putting some weight on the bars while also holding the brakes and watch the front tire is the same way. I generally like a few less PSI in my front tire (proportion will vary depending on size!). I would then use your pump or pressure gauge to learn what pressure YOU like for your normal riding and in the future you can know what pressure to aim for without the testing! Sorry for the long comment - this might warrant a little video explanation in the future! Subscribe so you don't miss it! -Owen

@urbane-cyclist Thank you, I'll have a go!

Leather is a natural material so dyes (particularly aftermarket additional ones) may leech out and stain clothing. I Think it is likely possible but I have no experience on the subject but I'm sure there is more leather dying videos available elsewhere on UA-cam! Best of luck -Owen

@@urbane-cyclist thx

@@georgkampmann7330 as a leather craftsman black is a very difficult colour to use to change the leather colour mainly because it seems to always keep "leaking" out. Other colours can be more of a dye that penetrates the surface and excess can be wiped off with little to no "leaking" of the dye. Black leather in particular is dyed black in the process of making the leather, I suspect the other Brooks colours are also dyed in this fashion to have greater uniformity in the saddle colours. The edges are typically dyed after cutting and forming of the saddle.

@@chriscohlmeyer4735 thanks