Відео

No specific plans, but I think you could make your own using the video as a guide. 1/4-20 thumb screws and tee nuts. 2-3" hole saw then improvise. I also grabbed a little person toy to make the cab size since my girls play with those.

Yeah, I agree. If a little lubrication can fix it, it will make a nice set. If I need stiffer springs, then it will probably make it have more back drag which won't be good.

@@Roger_Icce A real quick google told me ATF, and I just went for it. Thanks for sharing, I'll definitely try superlube or the permatex.

@@northwestwendover umm I found a Ryobi number to call by googling. They told me a day to set it outside in a box and the shipping company grabbed it. I think it was 3ish months for the replacement to arrive.

@@not_the_creator_of_blender for sure. Maybe I have a bad one, but definitely worth checking it out if you do purchase.

@@ВладимирВладимирович-д7ш2я you are probably right. I'll definitely be ready to use that method in the future.

The parking brake was loose. It being rusted and stuck to the hub was the issue. Once it broke free from the hub, I could remove it over the parking break by hand.

@@georgeparker555 yeah, one of those heavy ball peen dead blows is in my list to buy for next time.

@@shewchuk1996 I tried, it isn't meant to come off... But would with more persuasion and prying.

Definitely a trick I have not learned.

@@billyjoe-du9hk Parking brake shoes were loose. The cable going bad probably helped there. It was breaking the rotor free from the hub that was the issue. Once it broke free from the hub, I could get it off over the parking brake shoes by hand.

@ I imagine you already got the rotors on but, if you pop them off while new and put some copper anti-seize it will help in the future. Dealt with many vehicles namely trucks that did that and doing that make it a breeze to get off. Saves a lot of whacking and sweat.

For sure, I know for the future. Definitely used anti-seize and coated rotors putting it back together.

@@ИгорьПолозков-с2б yeah, as mentioned in the video is looks quite similar. Slightly different features like the bevel gauge further forward. I don't see the back blade guard, no blade nut cover...

@ClassicActWorkshop and new metal horisontal scale, helping 90 degree to ajust mach easier.

Yup. that is the cordless model with an AC adapter, right? Should be a nice setup if you need the cordless option.

It's a great saw Got the older Hitachi branded and this is almost identical

@@stevet.4820 1st I hope everything is alright. Next good luck getting a new drill.

@@Poaf-1 yup, TTI I believe. Also make Hart and Rigid.

@@Return2Kayfabe for sure, nice saw, but very heavy I think 59lbs it says on the box.

@@jk-kr8jt you do you

Another classic DeWalt/Milwaukee fan boy. Go home and work on something.

@@TonyCantShoot Not yet, I switched over to some woodworking projects. I was going to take apart and soak in ATF to lubricate. I'll try to get to that this week and I'll drop you a comment if it helped.

@@kazemhokm9605 Good info. Thanks for sharing. I've seen torque test channel show better performance with Makita but didn't know about Ework!

@@ElishaAsbury Very interesting. A little research and maybe a Makita PN A-44672 stuffed in there is what is needed. Never saw any information from SeeSii that this is a JIS style impact chuck, but it makes sense. Thanks for sharing.

@@ClassicActWorkshop that could work or some people will just stuff a little rubber plug in there so that it stay. The benefit to using rubber is you can use a screw to get it back out and it does not fall out like the little chuck of metal.

@@AlexY2-b6y 👍 The 12v DCK drill is my go-to woodworking drill these days. I agree on DCK, but don't think there is good contact information to warranty a DCK product if needed, but I could be wrong.

bot behavior

@@Ping-i9f 😂 I ignored a license plate bulb for years, but I won't risk that with an alternator warning.

@ClassicActWorkshop just kidding man. He should've disconnected the battery first before removing the alternator so he don't damage the ECM.

@@winner1604 Thanks. I have videos for a boat and trailer to go with the truck and a helicopter. Monster truck is a good idea but I will probably be doing an excavator or digger next.

@@CaptNash I try. 250k would be nice.

not true! mine is better maintained M54 engine 80k miles :)

@zontarr22-zon at 80k miles you should only need oil changes. I've had 2 M54s as well. Good engines, but the oil pump gear scares me for high rpm use.

@@ClassicActWorkshop I dont rpm it a lot , mostly in overtakes in some situations and 5000rmp max. I do every 4k miles oil changes that look like brown olive oil when I take it out, I has no leaks or ticking noises or any vibrations. I replaced the thermostat and the coolant with original BMW blue one and the oil pressure hose with original parts, 2 new original spring on the back and rocket gasket and the oil filter housing gasket with new original ones, now engine is spotless and I have no rust anywhere around or under the car. Seriously, from all the cars I had and much newer, this one is the best build, feels in metal material used on it and even the plastic is high quality. really love it and I have 26.9 mpg :) and is cold around here, always with auto clima on. :)

@@zontarr22-zon nice, both m54 cars I had needed oil filter housing gaskets as well. Nice cars when they are maintained for sure.

Yeah, I think you would just have to swap out the bearing before the shaft gets messed up. If the shaft gets scored, I would think it would ruin a new bearing pretty quick unless you resurface the shaft too.

@@j.miller5565 Someone else said that as well. This is how they came out of the box, but I'll definitely open them up and try. I have some older Craftsman's that could probably use some TLC from old age too.

@@HueManna yeah, fair point. You look more top down and the light coming from the other direction is annoying when dark.

I have the tri-beam. It is great!

@@moej6014 is that on a newer Ryobi or another brand?

@@ClassicActWorkshop older Ryobi. P237 is the model number. I also have the 1/2 hp impact gun P262 which also has the tri-beam light. Edit: I guess the 1/4 impact is over 10 years old

@@heavyspam1 Model numbers are in the video. These would be gen1.

Thanks for the advice. That's how they came out of the box, but I'll definitely open one up and see if I can lubricate it or see about a stiffer spring.

@@ClassicActWorkshop Got the 18 inch 3/8ths ratchet today and it came bone dry sounding like in this video. Packed it with grease and its much quieter and the ratcheting seems smoother. If you change the springs or add lubrication, you should record a before and after!

@aarliann sounds good. Thanks for the heads up.

@@kingtutt61 Thanks, much appreciated. Glad it was helpful. I was very surprised myself with the result, but as mentioned I typically use drills and not impact drivers.

@@ClassicActWorkshop I really like the HP, Compact series. I love the feel and lighter weight. Especially good for a DYIer. I’ll get the HP, Compact drill and try that awhile. Later, if I need an impact driver , I’ll go with the HP, Big dawg instead of the compact. Thanks again!

Where at? I'm trying to get tf out of Oklahoma

😂

I watched a pro water-skier hit one over the weekend on a tournament webcast. Idk man 😂

at least you know your getting a Republican Governor....North ummm nope.

There are gators in Texas, Louisiana, Arkansas and the Carolinas

There’s a swap or a lake down south, there’s a gator in it.

@@InsIdeouslol I was in Florida in early August to rebuild a dock. The heat and humidity was real bad.

Boredom is actually one of the worst things a human can experience