Відео

I'm not sure what from a radio would go through NMEA 2000. Are you wanting to have a radio at your chart plotter?

@@brentonpiercy I would like to connect a $50 Bluetooth/FM stereo for music to my charplotter via nmea2000. I would like to create a cheaper version of the Fusion Marine radios this way. Is this possible via an adapter?

@@ilcelle9901i don’t believe there is an adapter for that.

When it interferes with installing the head it does. The material that bulges in on that bore made it to where the head wouldn’t slide over the OD of the jug. Emory clothed it down but made the video to let the people that sell these things know their QA is pretty bad.

Unfortunately since these are resistance based units you can’t really get them to work with both an analog and the digital at the same time. I still have my handy dandy wooden dowel rods with notches carved into them for backup.

Thanks! It's been years since we built this thing so my memory is somewhat faded. If I recall correctly I believe we used this kit from Thunderstruck-EV. www.thunderstruck-ev.com/10kw-brushless-sailboat-kit-sevcon.html which was not the best idea. While I love thunderstruck our mistake was in picking the boat refit kit. The reason is that these boat kits don't come with an encoder on the motor since they're doing speed control and have low load at zero RPM. This isn't the case for the car unless you decide to keep the clutch and can rev the motor up before engaging the transmission. Anyway, not what you asked. I think the motor was around a 10KW setup. The battery packs I can't even remotely remember anymore.

@@brentonpiercy 👍

so you've got something like this? www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/en/lowrance-fluid-level-sensor/135930429/p plugged into your N2K network? The black box I've got is a system that reads a non-N2K sensor and puts it on an N2K network. My KUS level sending unit is just a variable resistance (240-30 Ohms) so it can't talk to a N2K network. To get it onto the N2K network I use the black box from some Chinese company via Aliexpress. Without seeing how you've got things hooked up it's really hard to tell what's going on. Perhaps make a video and post it then send me a link. One issue I could imagine you having is if you have the European standard fluid level sensor (the part in the tank).

@@brentonpiercy Hello Brenton, I'd like to jump in on this question. Like the gentleman that reached out to you I am having a similar issue with my Wema fuel tank sending unit reading on my Lowrance HDS unit. My boat is a 1997 Blackfin with Wema SL-16 sending units that also work on 240-30 Ohms. I have the fluid level sensor you showed in the link above wired into the Wema sending unit on one end and then plugged into the NEMA 2000 network on my boat and it's not working (it's not reading anything, not even a 0 on the Lowrance unit). Do think think I need I need an additional "black box" as you showed in the video or should this be all I need as is? Thanks!!

@@ironmule5200 Yeah. you can't just plug an analog sensor into the N2k network. The adapter box takes the 240-30 ohm signal (read as a voltage by that little black box) and converts that to a digital signal that is put onto the N2k network. N2k is a type of digital bus that allows your Lowrance HDS unit to see a lot of sensors on the same set of wires. If you don't convert the analog signal to N2k it will not be able to read it.

@@brentonpiercy Thank you very much for the response! So, just to be clear it's sounding like I need to add the adapter box you featured in your video into my system. From the fuel tank sending unit would I wire the adapter box to the fuel sending unit, then into the fluid level sensor unit (you linked in the answer above which I have on my boat) and then into the N2k network? Or should the adapter box allow me to take the fluid level sensor out of the system. I'm assuming the latter is correct. Again, Thanks for your help!

@@ironmule5200 I'm sorry. I think I missed the fact that you have the lowrance fluid level sensor unit I linked earlier. (www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/en/lowrance-fluid-level-sensor/135930429/p) If you've got one of those connected to your Wema SL-16 and the data line connected to your chart plotter and you're not seeing it on the chart plotter then I'm not sure what's wrong on the system. I'm not super familiar with the Lowrance HDS but you may need to do some level of setup on it. One thing I would check is whether you've got the right resistance range on your sensor. There are two standards (10k-0 and 33-240). Just double check you've got the right one with a multimeter on the black and read leads on the sensor itself. Slide the sensor to the full position and the empty position and see what resistances you get. If that's right and you're not seeing it on the HDS chartplotter there may be some setup you need to do on the chart plotter to get it to show up. Hope this is helpful.

@@akimrain To interface with the CAN network I used a PiCAN3 from Copperhill (pretty sure it's made by skpang). The code, unfortunately, isn't available for sharing. It was all written in house and includes some proprietary information I can't share.

@@brentonpiercy hi could you please have a look on my questi on pos, ted on Ardu,ino , fo, rum. my us,er name is akimzhankb. facing trouble on actuating that. thank u, youtube keeps deleting my comments, don't know why

Their previous models were based on Ben Katz motor controllers that were used for the mini cheetah project. They’re pretty shameless when it comes to selling products with other people’s code on it.

Controller code hasn't changed I don't think. Some things I've noticed though. If you've got other CAN devices that use extended ID's you need to get an updated firmware version from T-motor to fix some communication issues that come from that. Also, the programming from UART can't be done the same. With the old drivers I could change ID's with Tera Term or similar program. Now I've got to use the CubeMars_toolV1.3 program.

Bolted an electric motor up to the input to the transmission. Motor came from Thuderstruck-EV. Motor controller was a Sevcon. Batteries we mounted behind the seat. Definitely not enough batter capacity for long hauling but overall it worked out. I'll see if I can rustle up some more pics and whatnot of the build

@@brentonpiercy Oh, thanks. Right. EVWest, so likely an HPEVs motor 20AC. Did you put the controller and charger under the seat?

@@barondee5441 Sorry, made a mistake there. Motor came from Thunderstruck-EV. It was definitely not the correct motor as it was originally for a boat. The motor we used didn't have sensors (hall effect or encoder) so it didn't do low speed very well at all. If I were to do it again, I would definitely get something like the AC-20 motor but make sure you have and encoder so the controller can do commutation at low speeds. Otherwise, you could still use the clutch and make it a real ripper.

@@brentonpiercy Right. Thank you for the feedback Brenton. I just can't find people who have done it, so I appreciate the suggestions. The motor can be a reasonable power, or a e-motorbike motor, though it's the location of the batteries which has got me confused. If you think of something, very glad to hear. Cheers

@@brentonpiercy Did you ever rustle anything up? We'll be doing an Isetta 300 conversion here at the shop soon, and would love to have some other builds for reference of what's been done (and maybe what NOT to do lol).

Thanks, Jayson.

It's machined out of polypropylene sheet as a single piece. The hinges are something like 0.015" or ~0.4mm thick. It's definitely not the most robust thing but was a fun exercise in trying to make a compliant mechanism as a single piece.

Yes, very interesting exercice ! Thank you for your reply !

@@brentonpiercy what would be the best material for such things

@@syedwaleedshah2830 Polypropylene is pretty great as you get long molecular chains which help with strength in a narrow piece of material. However, machining it doesn't exactly utilize these benefits very well. You can do what they call "coining" to each joint which helps. It effectively smashes the material into the joint geometry you want which tightly packs in those long molecular chains. This might help you out. revpart.com/living-hinge-design-guide/

@@brentonpiercy thankyou very much sir. all i ask more of you is what are the refrence books to study compliant mechanisms so that one can build them... i am an engineer myself looking for something interesting for my masters