Відео

As you've been looking inside it, maybe you can help ? I bought one brand new when they were discontinued. Played it for only a few hours before all my gear had to go into very long-term storage due to lengthy house repairs, then disruptions of lockdowns. Amp was kept clean and dry at normal room temperature... It was stored idle for several years because of family circumstances beyond my control. No one touched or moved it in all that time. When I finally got it back out and switched it on again, the light came on but absolutely silent. No sound with or without a guitar plugged in either input socket. Despite this serious problem the amp still looks mint condition. Please can you advise. Do you have any ideas or suspicions what might have gone wrong while it was unused ? Some blokes who don't know much more than I do about electronics, share a low opinion of Fender quality control. They suggested it could be dodgy solder joints failing, cheap components expiring even though unused, or the shock of being powered back on again after such a long lay off. It makes me very nervous about switching on any of my other valve amps that were stored with it for all that time. Cheers...

Lovely sounding amp, but a friend asked me to look at one of the same model that was misbehaving, and while I have it partially fixed so it's "working" it's not "right", so a couple of months ago I enquired of Laney about a replacement VC15 Pre-amp board 9416-6 and got the response "Sorry but those PCB's are now obsolete and no longer available". So when it dies it's dead.

This video generates more queries than it answers. (Actually it doesn't answer any.) A matched pair may or may not be matched according to the accuracy of matching that you're looking for. Perhaps an approximate match is OK - after all most amps with push-pull output stages have masses of negative feedback which irons out a lot of irregularities. Is the test circuitry on the two versions of the tester different? If so, what are the differences? If not, is the calibration different or are there faults in the machine? Heater current differences are no big deal. As long as there is sufficient emission then it's OK (within limits). Not quite sure about thermal runaway, never come across this in decades of work with valves. Perhaps it's another word for interelectrode shorts. We don't know about the capabilities of the tester. Is one able to plot the characteristic curves of the valve under test? What about the valve bases? I saw an Octal one (presumably not a Mazda Octal) a B9a or noval holder and I suppose the third on was a B7G. Is there a way to cobble together other bases with flying leads, (side contact, British 4 and 5 pin bases and so on? Does the company provide a booklet with thousands of different valve data sets (like the Wireless World data books of years ago)? Finally - for the time being - are the internal circuitry and the method of working fully explained? When reviewing a piece of equipment it is essential to review the accompanying documentation.

Ive recently bought this amp and got it serviced. Not a tech myself but the clean channel sounds very stiff and cold to me - no compression or warmth. Would altering the bias help with this?

I have the same amp, early version with spring reverb and Jensen C10Q speaker, made in UK. I'm an total abuser, using it fully cranked (vol max, mid max) for hours at gigs about 2-3 times a week. Never had a problem. I love it.

Hi Paul! Thank you very much for this and your previous VC15-videos, very informative 👍 I have the second version of the VC15, still made in the UK. A question about discharging the filter caps. How to you discharge the caps when the leads are on the underside of the board and also the traces to the caps? I read on some Marshall forums that you can connect an insulated alligator clip on a wire from pin 1 on preamp valve V1 to another clip to ground and that will discharge the caps after a while. Is that how you do it or do you have another preferable method on the VC15? Thank you :-)

Its a hot amp! Thanx for posting! ♨️

Mk1 has a parallel fx loop whereas later versions have a series fx loop which is more useful for most people. It’s a stretch to say it’s similar to an AC15, the preamp is Marshall-like with a cold clipper stage. It’s got a LOT of gain on the drive channel.

It's interesting that you appear to be doing product testing for the design, I wonder if they layout diagram has been updated after all your issues?

Thanks Paul for the follow up video and posting the voltage chart. I think this additional information will be very helpful for anyone interested in building this amp. I am considering building one after my current amp build is finished. (Fender Blonde Bassman)

These amp build videos have been absolutely great. Invaluable to those of us who are interested in starting such a project but are a little intimidated. Really appreciate you taking the time to document the process and the troubleshooting involved. Nice tone too! (Also very interested in a kit amp sound round-up video!)

Just play some chords and dial in some different tones with and without using the master to give us an idea of what the amp is capable of.

Another potential buyer of this kit here, thanks for making this video series, they've been very useful. Still can't decide between the Rox 15 or a TubeTown kit. I don't need 15w's to noodle in the spare bedroom.

Good troubleshooting job Paul. Those generic silver mica caps (just marked "SM") can definitely cause issues. I have been considering building this kit and those would all be replaced with CDE silver mica or Vishey ceramic disc caps. How about some more playing videos so we can hear what she sounds like. 😎

Hi Paul, well done in completing the build. I have followed your journey on the amp from the beginning and found it very informative. Where you were testing the amp towards the end, do the instructions for voltage measurements come comllete with the amp, or is this aspect due to your expertise in working on valve amps in general? If the latter, would you be able to post the measurement details to enable myself and perhaps other people might find it helpful, if they are going to build this particular amp from modulus. Thanks again for highlighting the whole amp build process.

Hi Paul, looks to be an interesting build & progressing well. I'm thinking of this kit also from Modulus. How have you found the assembly instructions as part of the build? Steve

Cool! I have been thinking about building this kit, your videos will probably be very helpful, please an audio test at the end, thanks!

part 10 lol

Can’t wait to hear the end result!

How about cut off this short leg the strap, that more hinder than help?

Hi, I dont understand the issue with the two 100r. It should only reference the virtual CT for the heaters to a positive voltage. You had different bias voltage on pin 8 of the power tubes with them?

Hi I have built a JTM45 using Modulus transformers and chassis Using solid state rectifiers and 100uf smoothing caps it sounds very sweet on clean. I hope you don't mind me saying so that the heater wire should be lying down, you might get to much hum the first pre amp tube is very sensetive