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Unfortunately some times things just don’t go perfectly in photography and UA-cam video making. What looked and appeared in focus on the LCD and when reviewing the photo on the LCD was not when I got on the computer. At this time, the time I had with the camera cannot be reproduced, so I have to go with what I’ve got and thought the right thing to do here was to call out that the stack was slightly out of focus. As I mentioned in another comment, the intent of showing that example was to walk through how to use the files in NX studio, not to show performance of a finished merge. For that I would have picked a much more compelling image to begin with than just a bunch of lens boxes on a shelf.

Looking back, it just wasn’t my intent with that segment. I was just trying to show how to take the images and process them in NX Studio. Sorry that I didn’t have it!

Asking why it’s shaky or if it was shaky? It was definitely shaky…so hard to keep a lens steady by hand at 840mm while chasing a shot on a jet 🤣

@@willchaneyphoto Thanks, lol

I haven’t tried, but I doubt it. There’s usually a max amperage they can draw to properly recharge the battery and a small computer chip in the power bank that manages that on a recharge.

You can’t, but this also helps people trying to learn the differences between the two cameras so they can be better informed if trying to choose between the two :)

Well said!

Yup, the dedicated bird mode and extra AF points are huge for those shooting birds.

Everyone has a different need. Although in my situation I would choose the Z8 as well. But there was a time not long ago I would have gone with the Z6 III primarily because of money. It was videos like this that helped me in 2018 when I bought my Z6 to realize I was still getting a great camera even though I couldn’t justify a Z7. So I hope this video helps someone who’s trying to decide if the Z8 is really something they need or if the Z6 III will do what they need.

So much truth in that statement. The Z8 adds a few more features, but you still have to know how to use the camera.

I do think there’s some marketing buzz around pixel shift, but it does have its uses. Reducing moire being one of them and the way it works I found to be really interesting. I also really like the ability in a landscape to crop in if I don’t have a long lens on me at the time.

What do you mean it’s just marketing? It’s a useful tool…. Just because you don’t understand it doesn’t mean it’s a gimmick

Very good points! I should have had that included. Thanks for adding it here.

That’s a good point. I definitely overlooked that. The overheat warning I experienced on mine was actually an interesting one that none of the other two cameras being worked experienced. When I was shooting the solar eclipse in April I was taking photos every 30s and just the camera being on and in the sun on a 75 degree day brought it on. Fixed it with a box fan and opening up memory card slot.

I experienced the heat while shooting photographs in a hot weather so it goes beyond 8k and I shoot with reliable delkin cards.

Funny you say that, I recently realized how much interest there is in the Zf. I had written it off for a while as something I wouldn’t be interested in, but from what I’m seeing it’d be great to do a review on!

True, but there’s not a dedicated bird mode and the processor has to determine what it’s looking at which can cause delays in gaining focus.

Awesome! I can’t wait to test one with the Milky Way. I haven’t even had a chance to shoot the Milky Way with my Z8! Life’s been too busy.

Yup, still love mine! Shot most of the broll for this on mine.

Ya I agree, I have such a hard time justifying with how well my $120 Manfrotto one has done. The only things I like more about my Ulanzi travel one is how light it is and it’s compactness.

Thanks! I’ll have to look up the double fog filter!

That’s a great analysis. Battery life is also slightly longer on the Z7II. It only lacks in missing pixel shift shooting which is hit or miss depending on the scene. I suspect that will come with the Z7III. Great thoughts since I didn’t go very deep into talking about alternatives other than some surface level specs.

I’m glad I didn’t. the Z8s autofocus is still way ahead of the Z6III which was an area I was looking for improvement over my Z6. I like having the dedicated bird mode and faster overall auto focusing. I’ll have a video in two weeks covering the Z6 III and Z8. That said the Z6 III is still a great camera.

@@willchaneyphoto great that helps > considering Z9-8-6iii and AF (birds) is for me also key. Thx a ton✔️

I think it’s a great fit then. I started on a Z6 and still use it as a secondary. The III still lacks a bit in autofocus to the Z8. But that won’t stop you from still getting great shots of animals. I do wish it had dedicated Bird mode in the autofocus, but Auto mode is supposed to still have it utilized. I haven’t played with one long enough to know the DR issues I keep hearing discussed. My gut says it’s probably not really as big of a deal as it’s being made out to be. Myself included like to give some of the areas of improvement or flaws in the cameras, but getting your lighting right, composition, and editing down will carry you a lot further than the camera will in a lot of circumstances. The camera is just one piece of the puzzle.

what is Built-in intervalometer?

@@mrz1342 all your base are belong to us. They set us up the surprise.

Thanks!! I love mine too!

Yes, BUT…do you love your significant other more than your Z8? That’s a hard one 😂😂😂😂

What type of photography do you do? I can try to tailor an answer. My first camera was a d3200 before going to the Z6. I got great photos with the d3200 but it lacked a lot of the features that you’ll get going to a Z6 II in the same way from the d5600. Biggest differences I can think of is you’ll get a faster processor which means better autofocus and faster shooting speeds. More autofocus points on the magnitude of 10x more. A full frame sensor at 24MP which is awesome for low light shooting. And full frame helps you take more advantage of the field of view on your lens since there’s not a 1.5x crop factor from the APS-c sensor. I think the main point is it opens up a lot more advantages which in turn makes it a better camera, however it’s only better if you understand the changes, how it effects the photos your taking, and know how to take advantage of it.

Yes it can. You just need to set your interval long enough so that the flash has time to charge between shots.

@@willchaneyphoto GREAT ADVICE! THANKS😀

That’s a tough one. The Z6 series I think have the advantage for low light shooting with being full frame and lower MP. However, they all are great. I think the camera technology is overall so good at this point that there are technical differences, but all of them are going to create great photos for astrophotography.

Is the z6ii worth the extra money over the OG z6? I know there are some differences, USB charging, ability to make movie from interval shots, extra processor. Thoughts on shooting in P mode for Holy Grail as demo’ed by Richard over at Nightscape Images? Cheers from the Jersey Shore

Glad it helped you and that’s awesome to hear!

No problem!! Hope you got some good shots!

@@willchaneyphoto I did pretty good following your suggestions, thanks.

Thanks! I’m hoping to finally go shoot some Milky Way shots with mine this month. I’ve been itching to do a full Astro review of it, but just haven’t had the time. Let me know if you ever have questions on how something works. I’m always looking for video ideas!

@@willchaneyphoto Thank you for your response, One thing I do use is the in camera intervalometer with my Z6ii I also use a Adodelan "Pebble" Sutter release I would like to know some suggestions for a set up for a shutter release that would work well with the Z8.And I would like to hear how you like the Z8 intervalometer..Also I really want to have a complete "i" menu "how to"

Almost like I planned it ;) It might not be a bad idea to setup some different shooting modes to easily switch to if you have some different ones you want to try. I'd recommend dialing in the exposure you want first to get the right amount of trailing, keep your ISO at 64 or 100, and then if adjust your aperture as needed if you are over or underexposed. My opinion is it's better to be just slightly underexposed if you were to go one direction since some of the fireworks will be brighter than others and with the dynamic range on the camera, you should still be able to pull out shadows if you need to.

@@willchaneyphoto Thanks for those ideas. I’m really looking forward to giving it a try.

It wasn’t super hot yet in Texas yet but there was definitely some coming off of the heat on the runway. That will be an issue with any telephoto lens though as it’s an atmospheric effect and not something actually caused by the lens. It has to do with different densities in the air caused by the heat from the ground mixing with the cooler layer above. It’s going to be noticeable when taking images that are looking across the ground layer. But shouldn’t affect an image of a bird in flight or airplane that’s well off the ground. Concrete/asphalt will definitely be the worst culprit to cause it.

Totally understand! I’ve actually quit doing the background music in my latest videos. Great feedback to help me improve, just wish UA-cam had a way I could reupload the video without the track on some of my old ones

@@willchaneyphoto Hi Will, don't worry. It is not that important. Your content on the other hand is important and for me very valuable! So thank you again. Yo

Awesome to hear!! Im absolutely loving mine still. Had a great time shooting with it in Croatia a few months ago and hoping to do some astrophotography with it soon!

@@willchaneyphoto Thanks for getting back to me... I'm loving my Z8 too. I want to take her for a walk in Kenya and Tanzania at the beginning of the year. Great expectations.

@@gonzagasantos2290 that’ll be an epic walk!

I have not gotten to that yet unfortunately. I use an iOptron Sky guider pro though and love it. For deep space objects I use stellarium. For Milky Way I use a combo of stellarium and PhotoPills