Відео

@litewatefitr welcome to the cult! Wizard robes are distributed upon your first successful chrono, wands and staffs are handed out after your 100th time swearing at your build. Really though, welcome to the party!

@kccockerdoc 🤣🤣🤣. Thanks man!

@MarkeetMD In theory, the sweet spot is the point at which the bell curve for the hpr pressure and the bell curve for the hammer spring pressure intersect at the lowest possible value that still results in being able to reach desired velocity. That being said, there are a ton of other variables in the equation of achieving velocity in a cocker. Efficiency throws even more variables into the equation as things like flow path, turbulence, friction, volume, etc. can cause major disruption to the airflow, which would result in needing higher pressures to achieve velocity and causing negative effects on efficiency. So I guess the answer is, I'm honestly not 100% sure. In my experience, it has been at the "sweet spot" that I find the best mix of efficiency and velocity, but I haven't run enough tests to give you a definitive yes or no on the subject. To satiate both our curiosity, give your experiment a shot! I'd be interested to see whether you found a notable drop or increase in efficiency. I think I know the answer, but I don't have the figures to be confident, and I don't want to give you bad info. There's more than enough of that on the internet.

@@kccockerdoc awesome. Thanks man. Really been enjoying these videos and have been embarking on autococker journeys for the first time this year. Having a ton of fun.

@@MDPB3 cockers are an absolute blast, especially if you like to tinker with stuff. I haven't uploaded in quite a while, but I hope the info that's on here can be of help to you, man. And if you ever have questions, feel free to reach out!

@@Mr.Thermistor7228 no problem, man!

I dont remember if I went over tuning or not in the walk through videos. However, I would back off your 3 way a little. Because of how fast these frames cycle, you want a little extra room in the timing as opposed to a normal mechanical frame where you might time it nice and tight. Also, I found that trigger stops can be quite helpful in finding your "rhythm" with these.

@@kccockerdoc I have the standard LPR which has an internal adjust if I’m correct. I’ve just got some upgrades as well, Inception on/off, trident bolt and inception HPR v4, plus just waiting for an AKA Tornado valve

@donovannewton9507 sounds like you've got a good build going! And you're right, the wgp "sledgehammer" lprs are internal adjustment. Degas the marker completely, then you can separate the aluminum body from the brass base fitting and there's a flathead adjuster inside. Screw it in to turn it down, back it out to turn it up. Little at a time and you'll find where you want it.

I believe so as I've done them on hinge frames before, but I can't say I've done one on a double finger hinge frame. Don't see why not though!

Could you do a video of such a thing

@@lucasnoel4062 I'll have to see if I have any of the parts around, but if I do, I'd be happy to

You can do it, man! They're not bad to do, just take a little time.

Unless your lathe is in really bad shape, absolutely!

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If you have a straight enough angle on the fastener, absolutely. In steep angles the 3mm Allen gives you more wiggle room and still grabs.

Yup! All trilogies came with the "integrated" front block setup. The pro models did have a 15* asa, but it was still integrated. However, it also became popular fairly quickly to mini them and use a standard mini front block on them so you could use standard pneumatics.

@kccockerdoc mine definitely has the mini front block. But it came factory like that. Gonna have to see if I can find the original box. Haven't thought about paintball in 20 years and now I've got questions. Hahaha. Thank you for the reply. I sincerely appreciate it.

@bigwooly8014 any time! If it was factory with a regular front block, then it couldn't have been a trilogy. But in rereading your first comment, it couldn't have been a trilogy in 2000. They didn't start manufacturing the trilogy line until 2008 iirc.

@kccockerdoc figured it out. I've got an 05 pro stock orange/black. Thanks for reigniting the PB fire in my crusty ol bones. Going through all my old stuff brings back some memories.

@bigwooly8014 no problem! Dust em off and get out to mow some muppets!

Thanks man!

Mayyyybe!

@@kccockerdoc your videos made me dive into an autococker! I've been sucked into the interwebs of info! But the one thing I can't understand, is the marker shoots money one balling, getting on the trigger it starts to fart 😂

@nbouk32895 hell yeah! Glad to see you diving in! They can be a little fiddly figuring things out, but the more of them that you work on the more you'll be able to identify and fix. Your farting issue could be a couple of things. It could be that your lpr is a tiny bit too low, your lug is a tiny bit too high, or that your timing is a liiiiitle bit off. Start with the easy stuff and bump up your lpr just a tiny bit, then move to the others

@@kccockerdoc the motivation I got just from you responding is awesome! Come back and make videos we miss you!

@nbouk32895 hopefully soon! Not 100% sure what to make videos on alot of the time:/

I've actually been debating it recently. Left the pro shop I have been running for 5 years so I have more free time

If there's anything you'd like to see a video on, I could use the inspiration!

@@kccockerdoc Maybe docs personal favorite setup eclass/mech/pump etc etc

@shredZ not a bad idea! And it gives me an excuse to build stuff

Hopefully soon I'll be back up and going full force. Finishing up some life projects, then reworking the shop so I can make more weird stuff!

I need to for sure!

There's a couple slightly different sizes, but usually it will be a 015.

@@kccockerdoc so you know everything about cockers it seems. Love your timing video helped me out alot

@@vincentvincent5710 I wouldn't go that far, but I do love them dearly. I love to tinker and I've been a paintball tech for a long time. I'm glad some of my stuff has been helpful, I just wanted to help other people enjoy these markers as much as I do.

On a cocker, your lpr has no bearing on your velocity. All it is responsible for is providing enough pressure to the pneumatics to cycle the marker reliably. So if you're setting up a new build, you can run your lpr as high as you need to make sure it cocks correctly while you set your velocity, then adjust it to your personal preference if you would like it higher or lower.n

Great videos im learning a lot for my first Autococker rebuild

Glad it helped!

The system x frames do often have a bit of a stiff sear spring in them. You can experiment with different sear springs in the frame, removing the front leaf spring if there is one in the frame, and polishing the pivot pins for the sear and trigger will really put the finishing touches on a buttery smooth pull.

You should be able to pretty easily! I milled a midblock trilogy that one of my coworkers turned into a stock class pump

@@kccockerdoc SWEET! That’s awesome news for my project build haha

Yeah man, what would you be interested in knowing?

@@kccockerdocwhich valve size does a pre2k cocker use and which size does a 2k cocker use? I have a pre2k I’m rebuilding, I’ve replaced all orings and it still leaks down the barrel. I would like to get a new upgraded valve but I’m unaware of the size. Thank you in advance for your time.

@@joshhuff7331 so that question has a few answers. Both a basic pre2k and a basic 2k spec cocker would have been 9/16 valves stock, but there are exceptions. Trilogies, 2k5 black magics, meteors, and plenty of other examples as well as custom or bored out bodies can use 11/16 valves.

You are correct! I believe it was implements two years prior, but devils in the details lol

That may actually be in my list sometime soon. I just run some small, manual stuff and I've been wanting to do a weight reduction build.

@@kccockerdoc yah that's the same here.. I'm rebuilding a 2k4 body and have the neck modded for a PE clamping feed neck but now I'm thinking about using a mill to shave as much weight off as I can... I was even debating a drop top mod.

@@TheFubar1975 I actually just did that to a customers 2k4. Shaved the top, did some body through cuts, shaved the barrel wings, a few other styling cuts. 2k4s are difficult to work with when shaving them down because of the original milling.

I dont think madman is producing anymore, but there are several sites that have their kits still for sale. Right now Inception Designs has the most comprehensive spring kit out there as far as quantity of options, but there's lots of good options. Freeflow makes a great kit, CCM is always a good option, shocktechs are decent as well, but even stock wgp springs are a decent balance of efficiency and performance

Possibly, but not necessarily. Your slp reg will output around 350, and most cockers need anywhere from 300-400 psi, so you may be a little short of where you want to be. Generally speaking, you want about 100 psi over your marker operating pressure for tank output minimum.

@@kccockerdoc Duly noted. Thank you.

Aside from there not being a timing rod, everything should be about the same. Make sure to check the clearance on your sled just like you would on a back block! I've seen many of those plastic sleds get broken because they were set too tight and beating against the body! Have fun and go paint some faces!

If you're in the market for an Inception body, definitely keep an eye on their website to watch for the next drop, or hit up NFG customs as rhey stock alot of Inception products. In the used market, there are alot of bst pages that are a good source for all sorts of parts.

There's alot of Facebook groups that are extremely helpful! I'd be happy to help myself, but my psychic abilities aren't very developed, so without a picture or otherwise, I'm afraid I'm a bit useless.

Thank you! It makes me extremely happy to be able to help out! If you ever need anything, please don't hesitate to ask. :)

@@kccockerdoc I got my marker cycling ok. When I had my Inceptions FLE as a pump it would shoot at proper velocity. Now with the front pneumatics I can barely get paint thru the barrel. I can set a gauge between my inline reg and vasa. And I set the inline pressure at about 350psi. No matter how far I turn the IVG in doesn’t really make a difference. Any advice?Thanks! P.S. I have a leak at the barb going into the LPR. I ordered some Loctite 545 thread sealant and I will hopefully get that fixed. But I doubt that is the ‘real issue.’

@@skinnyboy400 If all you changed was going from pump to mechanical, you didn't mess with the regulator, and you can't get any change out of the ivg adjustment, it sounds to me like you may have your bolt installed upside down.

@@kccockerdoc the bolt I am using is an ANS quick release bolt. Would having the hammer lug to far down affect how long the valve opens?

@@skinnyboy400 no, but it would effect where in the cycle the marker actually fires. Pull the trigger very slowly and make sure the marker fires before it recocks

Yes and yes!

@@kccockerdoc awesome I will keep your name in mind for when I inevitably screw something up lol. Thank you, great video btw

It's a little hard on fitment issues to diagnose them without seeing them in person, but the first thing I noticed is that you weren't sure if the inception bolt needs lubricated. The inception bolts have o ring seals and definitely do need lubricated or they will be very sticky. They have very good tolerances though, which may be why it feels rather snug. Double check that your detents are good, if they're bad, it may be the bolt smacking the ball because it's rolling forward a bit that's causing your paint breakage. Typically Inception products have good quality and tolerances, especially one would think, in reference to their own bodies and products. If you continue to have issues, let me know!

@@kccockerdoc the inceptions bolts should come with an oring kit to size the fit to your body. If you take the bolt out of the package and don't fit it to the body with the various orings provided it's usually too tight to function. This was to account for various specs and tolerance issues on certain runs of bodies through the years.

If you go to the part of the video where we cover the cocking rod adjustment I go into a bit more detail, but basically install the cocking rod full, loosen the set screw in the center of the cocking rod, and then adjust the knob of the cocking rod while testing to make sure the bolt just barely clears the breach when the marker cocks.

@@kccockerdoc the Allen key is in, nothing spins. They state the head is adjustable. Could the head be locktighted?

@@odiespankers07 it's possible, but extremely unlikely. Make sure your Allen key is in the set screw itself. The cocking rod is a 3 part assembly. You have to hold the knob still and break the set screw loose, back the set screw off, then hold the rod itself and adjust the knob. Sometimes they get stuck

@@kccockerdoc you deserve a 🍺 I got it free, whatta you know what that was! Thanks again man. This thing will break people's hearts again tomorrow because of your help 💯

@@odiespankers07 always happy to help, man! If you're ever in KC, I'll take you up on that beer, and if you ever get rid of that dragon, I'll take you up on that too! Go mow some faces!

No, that's the easiest the easiest way to oil these markers. A few drops in the asa, gas up, remove your barrel, and dry fire a few. If you want to focus on the pneumatics, pull your cocking rod so it will cycle the pneumatics without firing the marker. It lubes the regulator along the way. Make sure you're not using any sort of firearm oil though as it will break down your o rings. Easiest one to snag is some pneumatic tool oil.

@@kccockerdoc appreciated! Just ordered Vitamin O