Відео

Thank you for your positive feedback.

Many thanks for the supportive feedback.

Mine is a Shark 2, which has now been replaced with the Shark HD500 with nearly the same specs. nextwavecnc.com/product/shark-hd500/

Thanks for your reply and interest. I do not make the levelers commercially although I just made another set for my daughter's family's boards. The particular design I would use would depend on the current leg and attachment configuration. Can't promise but would consider making some custom levelers if we can figure out how to take this conversation offline (for privacy) ... not sure how to do this. I'd also need a dimensioned sketch of the existing leg (or a leg itself) and some details about the attachment.

So, in the Vectric software there is a dedicated and handy "mirror" tool that looks like this ... photos.app.goo.gl/SfknRYVqmF5Kynxh9. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your CNC projects. By the way, Vectric has great online help. Just search something like "Vectric Vcarve how to mirror" and you'll get very close to you answer.

The safety block is to keep the router bit from drifting downward onto the T slot table when the power is turned off. If the rails and leadscrew are well lubricated, the router can drift downward when the power is turned off. There's also a quirk in my controller setup whereby the router can turn on spontaneously if the touch plate magnet is completing a circuit when the power is turned on. Thus, I always turn the router off to ensure that it can't spin up unless commanded in a routing job.

Thanks! ... Father's day gift.

I'm willing to share. Do you use Vcarve? If not, I could try sending a .svg or . ai format file. Not sure how to get it to you, are you willing to share an email address? Also, I'm out of town right now but can work on this when I get home.

Thanks!

Good to hear. There was a time period between when I ordered my machine and when I picked it up and I learned a lot from watching videos such as this. Pay it forward, I guess.

Sorry it took a while to reply. I knew what I wanted and had found it a hardware store but never knew what it was called. I guess it is a "Hanger Bolt" to which you need to add your own appropriate wingnut and washer. Here's a link to an example "hanger" bolt pack on Amazon (obviously, other sizes and styles are available to fit the application): www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPDLWYZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DPDLWYZ&pd_rd_w=roxTW&content-id=amzn1.sym.3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_p=3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_r=56F648DBPHPBMC109D3V&pd_rd_wg=xJL8Q&pd_rd_r=a6931932-0ca8-4b73-a23a-a44ab1744a07&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFaMEVaSTI0WU43VEkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0ODgzMjgzQTQ0RVdKTktPSUdHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3ODUxMjYzSUxINUYxR1ZTTVZOJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

@@FlashTraxWoodworking thank you kindly for the information and also forgive me for taking this long to reply back to your reply to me 😜. I will check out your link

Yes, I purchased a font called "Rustler" because none of my pre-loaded fonts seems to give the effect I wanted for a camping sign. The "H" in Hartman is approximately 3" tall. Thanks for your interest.

So far as I can tell, the paint still sticks pretty well to the sanding sealer. What the sealer does is keep the paint from penetrating too far or wicking along the fibers. I'm also hoping the polyurethane provides additional protection. The sign was a gift so I will have to see if I can get an updated picture. Good suggestion.

CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control. The CNC machine I use is a CNC Router which makes parts primarily out of wood by programming the path that a router takes in space along X, Y and Z axes using stepper motors. My last video describes the whole CNC routing process from concept to finished product on a small wooden part. See ... ua-cam.com/video/NMl9Ms1wo0E/v-deo.html

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks for the comment. Not everyone was happy with the use of "non-structural" material for the stringers. I'm expecting to be fine given the overall scale of the stairs and the overcompensation on the stringers ... but I did add a disclaimer in the description. I agree with you though, it would be nice to have some 2x structural options.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, "printing" on wood is a fairly accurate description of what I do mostly with my 2W laser. I actually find backing off the power to 1W and moving a little more slowly does a better job for most of my projects. If you end up getting the 2W laser and want some tips on settings etc, let me know.

@@FlashTraxFamily So nice of you to offer Tom. I ordered the 7 watt Laser it should be here Monday. I'm pretty sure it works the same as the 2 watt. Any tips you have on setting it up (such as TURN OFF THE ROUTER!!!!) would be helpful. I have the spindle router and I have never figured out how to turn it off other than unplugging it. My pendant and Ready2Create software are all able to automatically start and stop the router but I have not found anything that lets me turn it off. Anyone know how to do that?

Yes, I have a few more tips I can share. It could be laser-dependent, but I start with 1 watt (50% power for me), 12 to 15 inches per minute, and a stepover of 1/100 of an inch. As part of my laser project setup, I always unplug the router. There's also a switch on my router which I also turn off even though it is redundant. Also, I'm guessing that selecting the appropriate post-processor when setting up the laser toolpath should keep the router from turning on - but I have not verified this. If you're willing to share your email address here or somehow figure out how to contact me privately, we could take this offline and continue to share tips and tricks.

@@FlashTraxFamily I just saw that Vectric came out with a new Digital Laser Module for VCarve & Aspire. It's $46.00 and it adds some new tools "Laser Cut & Fill" and "Laser Picture" . This is a link to the Spindle TV video that does a tutorial on using the add-on software. I haven't watched the video yet just quickly went through it and from what I saw the guy did a good job. Here is the link if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/_jDH2w4lk_M/v-deo.html

Point taken, thanks.

Thanks for the visit

Yes. That sums it up. Not clear in the video, apparently, is that a larger landing would have led anyone descending the stairs directly into chimney bump-out on the back of the house. A compromise, I guess. Thanks for your interest and comment.

See the description associated with the video to see the principal materials and tools that I used for this project.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks.

Agree that a larger landing would have been better ... if not for the issue where the stairs would have led directly into the bump-out for the fireplace. The top step being level with the kitchenette somewhat offsets the landing issue; however, there's still the channel for the sliding glass door interrupts the landing area. Me and my over-60 friends (including one that works for the local agency on aging) still believe the new stairs seem much safer that the originals. Thanks for taking the time to weigh-in.

Appreciate the manufacturer and code information. Not sure whether to consider the top tread to be a "stair" or a "landing" for code application. The top tread is level with the kitchenette so the whole area is a landing of sorts (of more than 3' deep) with the sliding door open. In any case, I can say from extended personal experience that the stair package is considerably safer to navigate than the original installation. As for durability, only time will tell how long it will last. I suspect the new stair package will outlast the original installation but I will certainly post an update if I ever encounter issues with the design. Thanks for weighing-in.

Yes, I bought a "system" that included both the CNC Router and Laser Attachment from Next Wave CNC (aka Next Wave Automation). These items (and others used in the project) are identified in the description section below the video. Thanks for your interest.

Thanks for checking-in. My opinion may be biased because it was my project but I think the stairs still look great and my wife and I continue to comment how much safer we feel with the top "landing step" that we added in the new design. Because of using composite material on all faces, they still look like new. Even a year is still early days in a sense but I'm very pleased with how the stairs have held their integrity and appearance. Check back in a decade ;-) I'm just curious if the floating patio is done settling ... but even at the outset, I considered that I could fashion some composite "feet" under the stringers to correct for settling over the years if needed.

@@FlashTraxFamily That's great! I can imagine the stairs looking almost like new for quite some time. I'd seen the disclaimers about the composite boards not being designated as safe for load-bearing, but I wondered about marrying three or four of them together with screws up and down an 8-foot length, and using a few of these as structural supports for a high deck, instead of wooden 6x6 posts. I wish I had the resources to test this out first, as I wouldn't want to accidentally cause a collapse with such a scheme.

@@davew6949 These are good points. Composite isn't a true "structural" in general. But I do notice that things like load-bearing benches are made out of it. And I did double-up on the stringers as you mentioned. Also, being only a three step structure, I am not too concerned that I went a little outside the box on the design and it looks and feels sturdy to me. Thanks again for the inteaction.

@@FlashTraxFamily and thank you as well. I can see that benches, stairs and flooring will work fine with composites. They do have heat limitations (150 F and above) that lower their weight capacity, but that's not going to be an issue with things such as stairs. Your stairs ought to last for many decades, perhaps even outlasting the home. I think my dream of using them as 8-foot load-bearing substitutes for 4x6 and 6x6 posts has been defeated, however. At least until new generations of composite materials come out.

Although there are multiple ways to accomplish this result, here's what I did in this case: 1. Used my Panasonic Lumix ZS70 camera in "Stop Motion Animation" mode with Auto Shooting = On and a Shooting Interval of 5 seconds. 2. Depress the shutter release for the first frame 3. Turn the clamp knob a few degrees by hand (then get hand out of view) 4. Wait for the next picture to be taken 5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until there are sufficient frames to compose an animation Notes: * Use standard video editing software with the ability to load still frames (I use Adobe Premiere Elements) * Set the length of each picture to a frame or two, 1/30 or 1/15 second * Create a separate video just for the animation (future B-roll) or make it a part of the overall video * For items that repeat on a periodic basis, such as a turning knob or a router bit, you can just record one period then repeat the sequence for a sense of rotation (limits the number of unique pictures that need to be captured). Actually, for some of the knobs I use, only a half-rotation is actually needed because of symmetry. Hope this helps, let me know if anything is not clear or other ways to accomplish a needed stop action. And, by the way, here's a video link that includes some extensive and entertaining stop motion animation from a woodworking shop ... ua-cam.com/video/6Ggu3bU4koI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=frankhowarth

@@FlashTraxWoodworking thank you so much I really appreciate it

@@FlashTraxWoodworking thanks I did my first animated part today, not as good as yours but it was fun to do

Thanks for the visit

Thanks for the feedback.

The shirt is a hit at Habitat for Humanity where I volunteer in their woodworking shop.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. Hadn't really thought about the application as a planer for oversized boards. The cornhole leg adjustment was sort of specific for my particular boards but I can see where you could apply the same principle to other boards or new ones.

Thanks. Only took two takes to get a three-pointer ... haha.

Right, I think a lot of new CNC woodworkers make bit holders as one of their first projects. I think the heads-down approach and uniform shank protrusion length might be somewhat unique. Be prepared to make multiple versions or leave extra space as you collect more bits. Thanks for the feedback.

Replied from my other account ... but same person.

Haha ... I'm guessing you're referring to the not-so-nice boards. Well, they've actually gotten a lot of use and pack surprisingly well for trips to the beach, etc.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback. I try to include the main tools and materials I use in the video description (not that anyone actually sees them, haha). Some of the router bits are pretty pointy and sharp ... that's the main reason for the upside-down approach. The engraver bit would especially do you in if you accidently reached across it and missed-low.

Thanks for the feedback. Northeast Ohio is good for lawns in the summer ... and basement woodworking shops in the winter.

Thanks, it has been a perfect retirement-fit for me.

Great to hear that you will be following.

Thanks for positive feedback on one of my OCD projects. I'll soon be uploading one in a similar "meticulous" vein ... but more useful.

Thanks!

Nice. Thanks for the tips on some alternatives to the technique. Part of the fun (or frustration) is figuring out what works best for a given project.

The CNC Router is a Next Wave Automation Shark II. It is listed in the description along with the other principal tools, materials and techniques I used for the project.