Menswear Musings
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Case Shape Battle: 1861 vs 3861 Speedmaster MoonWatch
EVERY detail of the 3861 model is an upgrade… except one. And that single detail drove me to trade my 3861 Sapphire for the 1861 Big Box model. Let me explain…
In this video, I directly compare the 1861 I bought to the 3861, showing in detail how the case shape and profile of the lugs makes a visual difference that I just couldn't get over.
Comparing the 3861 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch hesalite 310.30.42.50.01.001 (current model) to the 1861 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch hesalite 311.30.42.30.01.005 (big box).
Buy the hesalite 3861 here: mayors.sjv.io/DV6n2a
Buy the hesalite 1861 via this saved eBay search: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=311.30.42.30.01.005&_sacat=0&_sop=15&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338035790&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
[both links are affiliate links to their respective retailers]
Shout out Belmont Watches for trading me. You can buy my 3861 Sapphire from them here: www.belmontwatches.com/products/omega-speedmaster-sapphire-sandwich-310-30-42-50-01-2
And thanks to my buddy Spence for letting me borrow his 3861 Hesalite the comparison.
Переглядів: 2 121

Відео

Am I Nuts?! Why I'm Downgrading From the 3861 Speedmaster Moonwatch to the 1861
Переглядів 3 тис.Місяць тому
In this video I talk about why I plan to downgrade from the current model 3861 Speedmaster Moonwatch to the previous 1861 model. So buckle up for some in-depth talk about my Omega neuroses and let me know-am I nuts?!
The Best Single-Watch Candidate You've Never Seen Before (Omega Seamaster 212.30.41.20.01.002)
Переглядів 7 тис.2 місяці тому
Everybody knows about the Bond Seamaster, the later ceramic versions and the current wave-dial model. But for a small window of time, Omega made possibly the ultimate one-and-done diver that perfectly straddles classic Bond Seamaster Omega, and modern Omega. The black Seamaster Professional 300m with the co-axial 2500 movement, reference 212.30.41.20.01.002 . I purchased one of these, and walk ...
Pitti Uomo 106-Ask Me Anything
Переглядів 3173 місяці тому
Can anybody attend Pitti Uomo? How do you get invites to the events? What was my favorite style of those I saw while there? I answer the questions my followers asked about Pitti 106 and a little about Milan Fashion Week, Men's. Menswear Musings covers men's style, clothing, watches and related lifestyle topics in a way that's helpful, down to earth and applicable. Follow m on Instagram and X @m...
Best GMT in the Game? Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm, 2 Weeks on the Wrist
Переглядів 2,8 тис.3 місяці тому
The GMT or Zulu time functionality of certain mechanical watches can seem a little like cosplay in this modern era of internet connected phones and apps. I wore the Zulu Time 39mm from Longines on a trip overseas and am here to share my thoughts.
Seamaster 300m Comparison: 2220.80 vs. 210.30.42.20.03.001
Переглядів 16 тис.5 місяців тому
The Bond Seamaster is a single-watch-worthy piece. If you want to buy one, which one should you get? I compare the Casino Royale 2220.80 to the 2018 ceramic wave dial version, the 210.30.42.20.03.001. I also compare briefly the Planet Ocean 2201.50 (original 42mm 2500 caliber version). I cover this watch in its many generations more in-depth, here: www.menswearmusings.com/a-brief-overview-of-th...
THE Best Everyday Polo Shirt
Переглядів 7235 місяців тому
Perfect for travel, great for the office, ideal for an evening out. The long sleeve navy polo shirt is the best. This one from Spier & Mackay is ideal for a few reasons. Here's the link to buy it: imp.i317572.net/Gm95n6 (that's an affiliate link that will make me rich if you buy after clicking)

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @SoCalWatchReviews
    @SoCalWatchReviews 15 годин тому

    Great video my friend and Adam is the man!

  • @DaksheshCorado
    @DaksheshCorado 7 днів тому

    Great video, very accurate analysis. In my 4.5 years in the game as a watch collector and enthusiast, I collected a lot from MAMACOO I was thinking I was able to get a blue SD but I'm not vip enough, but I'm not giving up. Hehe. Great video.

  • @AinatMorrissette
    @AinatMorrissette 7 днів тому

    When it comes to fine imitation watches, MAMACOO delivers. I've bought from them several times, and I've never been let down.

  • @DadeMurphie
    @DadeMurphie 8 днів тому

    "You can very clearly see..." The lie detector test determined that was a lie. I'm guessing it's more apparent in person but via YT these look the same.

  • @ryanchrisxp
    @ryanchrisxp 9 днів тому

    Running out of video ideas?

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 9 днів тому

      just desperate for ideas, it's so pathetic. please help me! please! help! meeeeeeeeee!!!!!!

  • @dakkmann
    @dakkmann 9 днів тому

    Dumb move! Don’t do it!

  • @matthewfriend6672
    @matthewfriend6672 9 днів тому

    If I was to buy vintage and new in Omega Seamaster, - vintage I would get a Blue Peter Blake, gorgeous piece. If I was going today, I’d get a new Green Sea weed. I currently own the old blue 2531.80, which I love and Not for sale! You could say I’m Emotionally Bonded to it!😜😜👍😃

  • @Robbie.nl11
    @Robbie.nl11 10 днів тому

    The dial color also look different between these 2 references. Interesting

  • @Robbie.nl11
    @Robbie.nl11 10 днів тому

    Great video!

  • @AlpineTerrier
    @AlpineTerrier 10 днів тому

    there's nothing better than the original version of this watch that was on the Moon. Everything else is a tribute version, so arguing about a millimetre bewteen version x+30 years and version y, is futile.

  • @FRonTLinES10064
    @FRonTLinES10064 10 днів тому

    Great video! The lug-to-lug of the newer one is 47 mm, the older one is 48 mm, and now your video explains just how they shaved that 1 mm.

  • @avarmauk
    @avarmauk 10 днів тому

    A good trade, subtle but meaningful differences

  • @galaga8834
    @galaga8834 10 днів тому

    I chose the 1861 over the 3861 at the AD. This reinforces my choice.

  • @OrryYoung
    @OrryYoung 11 днів тому

    Crazy you figured this out - I always knew something about the 3861 case bothered me. Lug profile is very different!

    • @galaga8834
      @galaga8834 10 днів тому

      The 3861 has a stumpier case. They ruined it.

  • @lotsofrobots1
    @lotsofrobots1 11 днів тому

    I much prefer the 3861! Better proportions, better movement, better bracelet better dial. But to each their own...

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 11 днів тому

      So glad to hear! When the 3861 came out, I was thrilled because I knew I'd buy a Speedmaster one day, and the 3861 is superior in so many ways. Only after 6-8 months of owning it did the lug shape start to bother me, and if you watched the previous video, I explain how the Omega lug shape is one of my favorite aspects of Omega sports watches. Even before becoming a watch enthusiast/collector, I had noticed the difference and truly thought to myself "this is the ultimate lug shape, why don't other brands use this lug shape too?" So, after a while of owning the 3861 and being bothered by *something* with the 3861, I finally realized what it was. Eventually, when I get rich and/or the market softens much, much more, a ST1 is on my list, too.

  • @explorerjlc1743
    @explorerjlc1743 13 днів тому

    3861 is more symmetrical, the 1861 crown guard sticks out more. The 1861 crown is also smaller and more recessed which makes it a pain to wind...

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 12 днів тому

      Yep the winding is better on the 3861. I wouldn't describe the 1861 as a pain, per se, but it's a little tougher for sure.

  • @Watch_Papa
    @Watch_Papa 13 днів тому

    you made the change, congrats, looks good

  • @donaldneo4317
    @donaldneo4317 13 днів тому

    Have you measured the dial and crystal? Somehow the 3861’s dial looks bigger?. I have the 1861, bought it before 3861 came along so I didn’t really look too much into it as I am not about to buy another speedy pro except maybe the white or the new FOIS 😅

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 13 днів тому

      haven't measured but eyeballing them both together, they are the same size. The dial and bezel looks bigger on the 3861 because everything else is smaller-the lugs, etc-than the 1861, so by proportion, the dial/bezel looks visually bigger. New FOIS rules.

  • @garyd599
    @garyd599 13 днів тому

    This is splitting hairs to the N-th degree.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 13 днів тому

      Totally agree. Only once I wore the 3861 for 6-8 months did I even notice it. But it became a dealbreaker for me. Such is life, I'm just glad there was a watch I could get ahold of without the dealbreaker aspects.

    • @galaga8834
      @galaga8834 10 днів тому

      @@menswearmusings You did the right thing. The 1861 is aesthetically more pleasing than the 3861.

  • @frankv7068
    @frankv7068 14 днів тому

    Excellent decision imo👌🏽. I had the same situation, previous and new in front or me, I chose the 1861 and never looked back. It wears better, it doesn’t look “perfect” and the white stands out more from far, I don’t know more details or why, but I actually don’t like the new one at all.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 13 днів тому

      I think all the small changes they made are things you'd get used to if you bought one or the other. Loads of guys on the forums criticizing one or the other dial for being unbalanced, or bad, or ugly. But, as someone who has owned both, you get used to either and that becomes your perception of what's normal/balanced/good. The differences are so minute.

  • @speedmariner680
    @speedmariner680 18 днів тому

    I feel ya! Having owned a hesalite 1861 closed caseback version in the past and now looking to get a Speedy back on my wrist, I'm wrestling with these same questions myself. The older longer lugs are more beautiful for sure, these new ones look a bit truncated. Else the new version is attractive. From my own experience I prefer the hacking seconds and slimmer case on the new one, but like the dial and the lugs more on the old version. Not sure how far back into the catalogue you would be willing to venture, but a 3572.50 could be worth a look with its hesalite crystal and sapphire caseback if you decide to ditch your current one.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 17 днів тому

      I've acquired the 1861 (big box; found one with a Nov 2021 warranty even), trading the 3861 for it. New video will be coming soon, comparing them and with my experience of having both on wrist for a while!

    • @speedmariner680
      @speedmariner680 17 днів тому

      @@menswearmusings Nice, congrats! Looking forward to the comparison vid

  • @forceforgood4669
    @forceforgood4669 19 днів тому

    You already listed all the great improvements about 3861. All you need to do is look at the dial and occasionally flip the back.

  • @DannyKaffee
    @DannyKaffee 22 дні тому

    Omega can replace the dial on the 2220.80 but it's another $460 on top of the standard service cost. But at least you get your old dial back (unlike Rolex).

  • @DannyKaffee
    @DannyKaffee 22 дні тому

    I owned both of these models. I sold the 42mm version. It was just a bit too large for my 6.9 inch wrist. Thick and chunky. I wear the 2220.80 almost every day. The fit is so much better (for me anyway). And I love the dial as there's so much texture and interesting things going on. I wear it on a Forstner Bullet bracelet (like the current gen Speedy bracelet). It tapers from 20mm to 16mm so it has a much more refined look to it. And I like the connection to my favorite Bond movie, Casino Royale.

  • @ky2auburn
    @ky2auburn 25 днів тому

    You’re downgrading over 0.5mm on either end of the lugs? In my opinion, yes - that’s nuts. No way I would give up all the other improvements - particularly with the movement - over a minuscule dimension. Especially not if I already had the watch.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 17 днів тому

      I've acquired the 1861 (big box; found one with a Nov 2021 warranty even), trading the 3861 for it. New video will be coming soon, comparing them and with my experience of having both on wrist for a while!

  • @R0lan6
    @R0lan6 26 днів тому

    You’re giving me a heart attack with than pen. 🙈

  • @SaltBhj
    @SaltBhj 26 днів тому

    If you’re that particular, then you should “downgrade”. All the best.

    • @SaltBhj
      @SaltBhj 26 днів тому

      But if you’re going 1861, I think you should get the Sapphire and then change the crystal to Haselite, because the movement on the Sapphire Sandwich is actually made and finished to a higher standard. The haselite version has plastic.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings 17 днів тому

      I've acquired the 1861 (big box; found one with a Nov 2021 warranty even), trading the 3861 for it. New video will be coming soon, comparing them and with my experience of having both on wrist for a while!

  • @Gee_Dub
    @Gee_Dub 26 днів тому

    The asymmetry is so iconic that I literally never noticed it before

  • @0kkin
    @0kkin 26 днів тому

    Do these transitional SMPs have double AR coating like the ceramic models?

  • @drazenbabich
    @drazenbabich 27 днів тому

    Let me correct you a little there at the start of the video, the current SM300 is far from the "best" and is usually less preferred to it's 41mm predecessor SMPc. Cheeers.

    • @DannyKaffee
      @DannyKaffee 22 дні тому

      Wrong.

    • @drazenbabich
      @drazenbabich 22 дні тому

      @@DannyKaffeeOf course, big boy. Make sure you stick around, you might actually learn something.

  • @gavinwhite9743
    @gavinwhite9743 28 днів тому

    I think you are are slightly obsessed/crazy, but I also get how these things get inside your head. I sold my Omega seasmaster 300m NTTD despite loving the aesthetic, because the dial hands didn't offer enough contrast in low light.

  • @inglebybhoy3293
    @inglebybhoy3293 Місяць тому

    It’s all in the details, so no, you’re not nuts. The 1861 is a beautiful watch that feels old skool. Closer to the 861 than the new model. With a Forstner 1450 bracelet fitted with the pressed clasp it’s THE perfect Moonwatch.

  • @edgeyt1
    @edgeyt1 Місяць тому

    Yes, you are nuts.

  • @andrewdodge1311
    @andrewdodge1311 Місяць тому

    Watch people are nuts

  • @kresimirpleic
    @kresimirpleic Місяць тому

    Btw, I absolutely agree with your tool vs luxury view on what Omega should do next.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      that'd be awesome, right? lacquer dial sapphire speedy with ceramic bezel for the luxury set. hesalite, aluminum bezel with matte dial and steel caseback for the tool watch authenticity set. the white dial is most of the way there

  • @kresimirpleic
    @kresimirpleic Місяць тому

    I have never quite understood the hype behind Speedmasters, especially the printed dial versions. Next to your PO and AT, which are both awesome, I wouldn't even look at it. Having said that, as an enthusiast, I totally understand your issue with the design details. From that perspective, switching to a Speedmaster that shares the same (and your preferred) design cues as the other two Omegas makes perfect sense - so long as you are fine with the trade offs.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      I love the Speedmaster Professional as a watch just for its design. The moon connection is way down the list, though it's impossible to separate out how badass that is when considering the watch. But the cool thing is that so many of the changes are so subtle, that the tradeoffs should be more than negligible, I think.

  • @BenNS1971
    @BenNS1971 Місяць тому

    I own the 1861 and I would like to address why I haven’t upgraded and why I prefer the hesalite. Though I love exhibition case backs, there is no crystal as beautiful as a well made acrylic. The curvaceous nature, the distortion, the clarity and warmth transforms the watch. In regards to the movement, there is something very enjoyable about having a classical movement that has been in the speedmaster since the 60’s. The 1861 just differs from the 861 due to the finishing and for a collector it’s really nice to have a classic movement in the collection. If I only had one Omega, I’d go for a piece with a modern movement, but having more, I feel the 1861 makes my collection more interesting. In regards to the bracelet, though this is an unpopular opinion, I feel that the clasp is too thin and on my wrist it looks too dainty and not adequate for a sports/tool watch. The changes on the dial, I either prefer slightly or am relatively indifferent to (like the DON). Finally the lugs - I hadn’t considered your perspective of how the lugs don’t twist outwards but I always felt the slightly longer lugs looked better. The shorter lugs made the watch look chubbier and less sleek. Sorry for the long rant, but you touched on a subject that I’ve thought about many times. Cheers.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      Great thoughts, thanks for sharing. My Omega collection is all modern and co-axial, which I adore, save for one 1960s Seamaster Deville. I was just admiring the curved acrylic crystal on that watch the other day and thinking how much I will probably love the hesalite on the Speedy.

  • @timothytan8423
    @timothytan8423 Місяць тому

    May I know what is the bracelet on that PO2500?

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      It's the pre-2018 Seamaster Forstner contemporary flat link. The pre-2018 Seamaster end links fit the PO 2500 42mm with no modifications. forstnerbands.com/products/forstner-flat-link-bracelet-for-omega-seamaster-pre-2018

  • @eddielluisma9109
    @eddielluisma9109 Місяць тому

    You’re nuts for downgrading

  • @andrewbalahura1555
    @andrewbalahura1555 Місяць тому

    So happy with my 1968 transitional 861. Buy oldest ones!!!

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      I do love the vintage ones and down the road perhaps I'll venture into that realm. My first nice watch was a 1966 Seamaster Deville gifted to me by my brother for my 30th birthday. I tried wearing it as I would any of my other watches (for instance, a Seiko diver my dad bought me when I turned 13), thinking "this watch was designed to be an everyday watch for men 60 years ago, so why can't it be that for me?" On day 3 the crown somehow got snagged on something, it was yanked out, and it broke an internal mechanism for the date wheel. Thankfully the seller who is a watchmaker fixed it for me for $100. But, I just can't with these delicate little old watches. Another negative on vintage for me is lume. If I can't read it when it's dark, it's a no for me. I wear my watches to bed so I can check the time when one of my kids inevitably wakes up and needs something. Or when I'm traveling and am deciding which watch to take, it's always going to be one I know I'll be able to check the time on. I guess I'm saying: functionality is important to me and the functionality I need is sturdiness and nighttime legibility. But, I tried on a 70s Speedy the other day and it had an irresistible appeal-the warmth was superb.

  • @Speedmaster_Gonzales
    @Speedmaster_Gonzales Місяць тому

    Do what you feel is right. The new ones have wonderful features, but they are minuscule in difference to earlier models, in my opinion. I have a 2000ish 3570.50 that keeps 0.0 +/- per day consistently and wouldn't need service for another 5 to 10 years, I would think. You can sell that one and buy a 3570.50 for less than $4000 and then, perhaps, look for a vintage Moonwatch that fits other things you seek (i.e. Pre-Moon, 321, Vintage, etc.). Given today's pricing you could probably wind up with 2 that fit all your needs, and then some.

  • @galaga8834
    @galaga8834 Місяць тому

    I purchased the 1861 New Old Stock and had the chance to get the 3861 for just a few hundred dollars more. However, I went with the 1861 and have no regrets. I wasn't a fan of the shorter, stubbier appearance of the 3861. Additionally, I believe the 1861 has a more refined finish on the case compared to the 3861. I compared both models at the AD after a reviewer indicated this on his channel. I agree with him. After you pointed out the details about the lugs, I appreciate my 1861 even more. Thanks! BTW I also have the same Planet Ocean 2500. My first real watch.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      I'm amazed you picked up on the shorter appearance. Maybe I would have, had I spent time comparing them side by side. It took me like a year to notice this lug thing 🤠

  • @frankv7068
    @frankv7068 Місяць тому

    “Wouldn’t wear it with a tuxedo 🤵🏻 unless I have too”🤔 are you a real life 007🧐?

  • @frankv7068
    @frankv7068 Місяць тому

    I knew the was something different! I never liked the new 3861, even had a chance to get it when it came out but I picked the old 1861. I’m a bigger buy and liked the way it wore better, plus the new one looked too blingy and “perfect”, now that you’ve pointed the details I love it even more. The new features didn’t appeal to me, I think these smaller men in the hobby are influencing watch companies to go smaller and it’s ridiculous!

    • @galaga8834
      @galaga8834 Місяць тому

      Great point.

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      Interesting thoughts. I think all the small details they changed on the dial specifically add up to a cleaner dial, and the step dial adds back some visual interest through 3-dimensionality. Overall, the 3861 wears very flat and comfortable on the wrist, while the 1861's I've tried on wear more like my Planet Ocean, on which the caseback is thicker and it sits off the wrist a bit more. So it's a lot of tiny little pros and cons. But thankfully everything is so subtle that in practice, once I get the 1861, I'll put it on, and it'll just become part of my wrist.

  • @JohnnyBeans-w9k
    @JohnnyBeans-w9k Місяць тому

    I bought the Aqua Terra in 2023. My first luxury watch. The lume was subpar. The bracelet didn’t have Tfit and it was top heavy. I then bought the Rolex Starbucks submariner and it fits beautifully without and of omegas setbacks. I put a Artem strap on the omega and my wife likes to put it on her wrist. lol. I won’t ever sell my first omega but it has stopped me from owning other omega. I have purchased 6 Rolex since then

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      Yes, the lume on the AT needs one small upgrade to make it usable (add a strip of lume to the length of the minute hand). It was my first luxury purchase and it's sentimental for me, too. I think when it comes to setbacks, every brand has 'em and it's just a matter of which ones you can live with!

  • @paulcu130
    @paulcu130 Місяць тому

    stay with the 3861. It is an awesome watch

  • @FlyingEriksen
    @FlyingEriksen Місяць тому

    The "downgrade" is an upgrade...

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      Unfortunately the 3861 an upgrade in every single way-except the lugs! Wish it weren’t so cut and dried.

  • @mbell7498
    @mbell7498 Місяць тому

    I just got the old generation but the 36 mm one. As you can imagine I like compact sizes, so the new Seamesters wouldn't have been for me anyway. Even though we have the same wrist diameter, and they seem to fit well on you.

  • @nickvolpe3487
    @nickvolpe3487 Місяць тому

    Deets on the brown strap?

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      It's from CNS Watch Bands. Suede racing strap. cnswatchbands.com/products/monza-golden-brown-suede

  • @nikolastojanov8749
    @nikolastojanov8749 Місяць тому

    If you dont like this design detail, it is absolutely justifued to go for the older version. Just make sure you wont dislike any of the design and techical downgrades you get doing this

    • @menswearmusings
      @menswearmusings Місяць тому

      Thank you! I swung by a local shop that had two older models for sale, one from the early 80s and an Apollo 17 from the early 90s. Probably close enough to get a feel though I do wish either had had a modern bracelet just to get a feel for that. Anyway I think the takeaway for me was that the biggest change I’d have to get used to is how the case back profile makes it wear a bit higher on the wrist. Made me think of how my planet ocean wears and that watch doesn’t bother me. The hacking seconds, accuracy and anti magnetism are the only other features I’d be intellectually less interested in… but in practice doubt they’d be enough of a bother to give me major buyers remorse.