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back to basics, check tire pressure, also bent rims as golf carts take a lot of abuse, then check the shocks, as bad shocks will give a terrible ride

thanks for looking . do you get to see many classic cars up your way ?

sorry I did this video because I own a 1990, best of luck! but if you have another question I might be able to help

IT is very easy once you have done a few hundred lol please read some of the comments that I have wrote for other people, and then go back and try it again , If you still have questions then as k me again and I will try and walk you through thanks

@@davidandsuzy2516 Hi David, and thank you for answering. I've read all of your previous comments, and here's what I think I'm missing: With 9 threads showing on the passenger side, and 6 threads showing on the driver's side, where do I start? I'll center the steering wheel (from the 1o'clock position that it's in now. Now what? Should I crank in the passenger side (from it's 9 threads now showing) to match the 6 threads on the driver's side? And then once they're matched (both at 6 threads showing), then crank each side down by a small amount - say 1/2 turn until I get the 1/8" toe in? That seems the logical way to go about it, but I'm certainly not the expert you are. I'm using two angle iron pieces and tape measures like you suggested. Thank you.

What do you think David, am I on the right track to starting off by setting both tie rods at the same (6 threads showing) and then slowly work down to the 1/8" toe in measurement. I just need to know where to start. Thanks.

@@johnbowes7965 you always try to have an equal amount of thread on each tie rod, which should be no trouble if you have done all the proper steps make sure there are no worn out or bent parts MAKE sure the str. wheel is centered in the straight ahead position. To do this turn the str, wheel from lock to lock if it takes 3 turns lock to lock then half of that which would be 1 and a half is what you turn the str wheel back from a full lock position, and that is where the str. wheel MUST BE IN THE STRAIGHT AHEAD POSITION if not then undo , and remove the str. wheel and re-position it before you set the toe

@@davidandsuzy2516 Thank you David. That's the key I've been looking for - starting off with an equal number of threads showing before narrowing in on the 1/8" gap. I'm sure we all appreciate your detailed instructions.

thank you for looking

a few things First read my comments below from 3 years ago. Then once you have read them a couple of suggestions. Because now that you have made a jig similar to mine do the alignment again making sure that while you do it the steering wheel remains in the straight ahead position. If the str. wheel is still not straight, some people remove it and re-position it. Personally if the str.wheel is off a bit to the left and you know that the total toe in is correct then loosen the jam nut on the 2 tie rods . you will want to toe the right one in , and equally toe the left one out. If the str. wheel is not that far off being centered then just turn the tie rods about a quarter turn.. Then road test it again. You may have to tweak this again. If the Str. wheel was off to the right then do the opposite.

@@davidandsuzy2516 thank you. I did it again and made some significant improvements to the jig and measuring method. I forgot to check tire inflation so I'll do that tomorrow. Genuinely excellent content. Thanks so much. Do you have a video about bushings? I replaced the control arm ones but they creak when the bolts are tightened to spec on the rxv. Sigh. Learning...

@@ericshufro9209 yes I did a video about the bronze king pin bushings Very easy to do

@@davidandsuzy2516 those went well. But the ones in the control arm did not. :(

the gear is plastic, when the teeth break they fall to the floor of your jeep

I think you will enjoy it as I have had no problem

thank you have fun

@@davidandsuzy2516 your welcome. Watching in the Philippines

@@comaradelee wow are you visiting there OR do you live there ?

go on your computer to Amazon.ca the part number is in my video

I also did a video of another 1966 dark blue that has the exact insignia

most definitely start by jacking it up and making sure there is nothing bent, and that the king pins are free, if everything is good then do a grease job and alignment

well I can't say for sure as I was not there. BUT if they have not been greased properly they seize and can break. Whoever worked on them might have given them a shot of grease BUT IT NEVER WENT THROUGH, That is why I used the proper bushings with the the groove to let the grease through.

about $50 in parts and 1 hour labour

if it is the same as mine, that is too much money

hello I am not positive that this is your problem BUT it is an easy cheap thing to check , and eliminate . Disconnect the line that runs from the gas tank to the Canister. Do this at both ends. Now blow compressed air into the line. to see if it is blocked. DO NOT BLOW AIR INTO THE GAS TANK.

I agree on the colour aspect. when I am washing it, I want to enjoy it, and when I park it and walk away I turn around and love it. though that is just me, and my taste everyone to their own have a great day

glad I could help, that's why I do this , have a great day !

yes there is a real good chance that you have a plugged line, even if it looks good on the outside

Like I said I maintained 85 carts and put them all to1/8 never a problem at any speed when set right it will feel like you have power steering

Yes it is the spitting image of a 1973 Cuda 340 that I used to own as well as a 1973 Dark Green 340 Cuda that we used to own Very sorry I sold them both

@@davidandsuzy2516 I had a friend that also owned, and soon sold, his ‘cuda. I remember that he really regretted selling that work of art!

I used a Dorman part BUT I did not get an alignment tool with it. There is only 1 way it will work properly so that you can get full rotation

@@davidandsuzy2516 I ordered the gear and a new actuator. This alignment tool came with the new actuator. Its basically a small plastic spindle oriented exactly like the one coming out of the actuator and they tell you to stick it in the housing and rotate it so it aligns with the position of the new actuator you are installing. I am taking it apart today finally, so I'll see if it is of any help.

@@davidandsuzy2516 well I did the job today. Mine was stuck just like yours. It took me forever but I finally got it unstuck and to the point where it moved freely. I installed a new blend door actuator and a new gear. It went on very easy. Putting everything back together was the frustrating part. Anyway, tested it out afterwards and it’s not working. Some say they need to be calibrated at the dealer or try disconnecting the battery to reset the system. I’ll try the battery option in the morning and go from there. Did yours work right away without any other work needed?

@@davidandsuzy2516 So after I made the repair and was able to "free up" my blend door by hand which was stuck, I put everything back together. Mine is a 2015 and the actuator did need to be "calibrated" with a diagnostic handheld tablet per the manufacturer. I took it to a shop to have the calibration done and they said that the computer could not get the new actuator to calibrate with the computer system for the HVAC. At this point I assumed that the whole assembly that houses the blend doors was damaged beyond repair even though I had gotten it to move by hand. These doors do have rubber and foam sealing around them and if they rotate too far they can not only become stuck but also get jammed so bad that even after you free them up by hand they still don't function as they should. Today I got back to the issue because ours blows heat constantly and now that summer is nearly here it needed to be replaced. The dealer is pulling out the dash and removing the entire blend door system and replacing it with a new one which while expensive is a necessary repair for the vehicle to have proper A/C in the summer. These dual zone climate systems are great options and luxuries to have but they are quite complicated. If I tried to do this bigger job myself it would take me many days so I threw in the towel and have paid the shop to do this more complicated repair to the HVAC system. Your video was very helpful to me in replacing the actuator but I knew there was a possibility it would be a bigger issue. At least I got a proper education of what may have been wrong with the system and I don't feel like I am having an unnecessary repair done. Thanks again.

@@enjoylife7030 I am glad that you watched my Video and got something out of it. Sorry that you have to take it to the Dealer now. To me there are only 2 gears, the one mounted to the door, and the one that drives it from the actuator .There is only one way that they will go on correctly . When you assemble them so that the index is lined up then no need to calibrate.

Actuator and gears move freely and teeth intact it just doesn’t move a flapper when turning because the flapper fell way down and not retained in any way to the driven gear , did I lose a shaft from the top gear ?

@@davidb8466 WITH the electric motor off, can you move the remaining gear that is attached to the flapper ? It should move VERY freely back and forth

@@davidandsuzy2516 I guess if in some way am able to remove the blower motor down which gets me to where the door seems to have fallen but I need to expose the bottom and blower motor . If that’s the way in ?

so there is a gear on the actuator, and it moves the gear on the door flapper , IS IT STILL THERE ?

@@davidandsuzy2516 gears yes but the flapper is not hanging off the top gear , thanks , continue tomorrow weather permitting, I’ll keep your channel updated, thank you

Once I get the C30 back out of storage in the spring I will check and let you know.