Відео

4 lead transistors became popular in the silicon days for RF & IF's It does go to GND. Remember changing many on RCA & Admiral IF's. BTW you should get strong stations without the RF amp & a lot of QRM unless its dead shorted. LFOD !

I want to be there. I’m just sayin… ✨😳🎰

Again. Wow....Frank. You are the master of the universe!

Burn your tongue..... Then burn your butt?

The leaky transistor may have tin whiskers inside. These are germanium, not the silicon variety we use today. Their bias is lower as well. 73 OM

This is the kind of radio with a special ballast tube. Philco number 33-3389. It was put into a special octal socket with two keyways, one for 115 V and the other for 230 V. I see the wiring diagram for the ballast tube on the schematic and looking at it is actually only used as a jumper for the connections for 125 Volts. It is needed for 230V when you place it in the right position for that voltage. If you have the ballast tube and it is dead check the ordinary wire connections in the base for continuity. Pins 2,3, and 7. Then you can redo the speaker next. But not this way, yikes. Rotten insulation on many wires to be replaced. And don't modify the chassis to fit a too large PM speaker!

Very interesting radio. The transistor symbols on the schematics look strange. I newer saw these symbols before. The ГТ-309В transistor is a germanium one. The "ГТ" means "Германиевый Транзистор" (Germanium Transistor) in Russian. The silicon transistors are marked as "КТ" ("Кремниевый Транзистор" - Silicon Transistor). Thank you for the great video!

The D in 500D stood for distance reception indicating the improved RF stage and featured their inverted cone speaker but was not put into all model of the 500D's for some strange reason. I think they ran out so if you have trouble you could replace it with a regular cone one if it is bad. If it says "long distance" on the outside you were more likely to get one with the inverted cone. On a vintage transistor radio the first thing to do is a visual inspection of the circuit board to first eliminate a no sound condition. Then go into it more. Chalk it up to a learning process for the future. Old PC boards were poorly made including traces. I learned some things here ( always good!) as I have a 500 that works but poorly. Thanks Frank! Steve

Most guys don't know this but the shaving cutter head and stationary blade cover are matched sets so don't interchange them or you will experience lower shaving quality for a week or two until they seat properly. They sent you the wrong set of replacements by the way. You need the SH30/52 and always request the manufacturer's sealed box and not just the sealed placard they come in. Some unscupulous sellers actually do that!

Very illustrative ty for the information

I also have never seen a speaker like that.

This radio was made by Arvin.

In Soviet Union you didn't have radio, radio had you. Cool viddy!

Interesting.

That's not my belly! That's my neck! 😅

That's a K-Mart Special, too. A new spark plug, a pump gasket, and new oil would be doing the most. Otherwise, just clean the mower deck, and spray with WD-40. Sharpen and balance the blade. Check wheels for wobble and nuts for tightness, along with the rest of the frame. Many of the mowers you see on the side of the road can be fixed so easy. Pump Gasket, or a varnished bowl, needle and seat. This is all before a rebuild, and 40 more years.

Gas stabil works too for storing away into the winter months

WD 40 is kinda both. Its a lubricate. But at the same time its flammable to start the lawn mower...

You should probably do that before you park it for the winter

Love those older Briggs and Stratton engines. Hard to kill.

Not a bad idea WD (Water Dispenser) Mineral oil lubricant. Also works great to clean fuel injectors. Try to find 'Non Ethanol' fuel for your mower and you will not have any issues especially after storing.

I was given one of these with no damage or missing parts and it's untouched. It was working they say. I don't like working on this type of assembly but I got to do it. I have a National shortwave I have to do too. I'm just spoiled from working on printed circuit boards.

It's probably is a bit of both. It smokes for about two minutes after you start it but then blows clean exhaust.

WD 40, interesting. Does it act like a starting fluid or lubricate cylinder and piston rings, for that 1st startup?

Serene , beautiful site

My baby!

I have a Shipoo what's yours

Hew yeah I wanna tweet

❤ He is so cute!!! He wants to do his trick for you! ❤

If his treat is commercial doggie ice cream, it's trash. Go online & search doggie ice cream recipes. So many easy to make treats.

What a sweet boy❤

Cute pup!

Sooo lucky to have Buddy. Dogs are so special. 😅

Wearing two boots?

That's a good happy dog.😊

Hacker

That's Franks pet swimming for treats!

Very Interesting!

The socket is the power input... Goes to the tube heater. The tube is shaking badly and is probably bad. I'd fix that loose socket and get the tube checked. It's a frequency source to check antennas or radio front end inputs...

An alternate trick I like to use is to separate the field coil from the rest of the speaker, and mount it somewhere on the chassis or cabinet; that way it stays in-circuit, and the power supply operates the same as before

Nice little Sony ,

'PromoSM'

I'm going deaf.

Yes, just like the way it used to be there when we were kids.

So that's why they call it 'Ditchmond.'

I got into tubes and amateur radio just 4ish years ago and that's a loosely coupled BFO for CW. The lamp is a dropper and an indicator to the user by means of infrared (heat). It's meant to be portable for use with any BB or SW receivers hence the external coupler wand and mod jack. I could be as wrong as one may get but nah....

It may be a wavemeter to check a transmitter. You can monitor the modulation with headphones.

It could be that the tube is faulty, only one side of it is conducting and it should have both sides conducting as it is a full wave rectifier. I've ordered another one (pre 1925) and I'll try that one after I get it.

Thanks for trying out my suggestions. You couldn't make it work it but it is still as I said, an early version of what later will be the function of the receiver BFO. It was well known that BH tubes generated RF noise, (see the 1937 Raytheon tube manual). Here some clever person turned a problem into a feature by making use of the noise, maybe anticipating later noise diodes such as the Sylvania 5722. Using a buzzer to excite a tank circuit for testing and detecting CW signals was also a known practice. This is a very cool device. It would be worthwhile to spend more time trouble shooting it. I would love to see you demonstrate it working.

Please do the testing properly. There must be a bulb or something in the lamp socket, (a shorting wire would do), to have continuity in the circuit. Apply 300 volts, max is 350 volts, max current 125 ma. Your scope doesn't have the sensitivity to see anything. Use a shortwave receiver tuned to say 2.9 Mhz for the test and adjust the tank capacitor to find the signal. It is not an oscillator but uses broadband noise from instability of the ion flow.