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You may have the gear backwards. You will also need to adjust the worm drive. Send me a pic to milehighastrophotography@gmail.com and i'll take a look.

The ra axis knob tightens the gear itself but it can still spin I you still can’t helm me I can try sending a picture

@@JonDenver should I have greased the plastic washer that was underneath the ring gear and should I have two plastic washers

@@JonDenver I fixed it I didn’t have to screws that held the bearing and the worm gear in

@@Reptileowner Lol, sometimes its the littlest thing you miss! Glad you fixed it!

Yea, I’m actually redoing the whole thing. Learned from Jason Burns. I had the wrong grease, too much grease and I’m putting in the new bearings. I’ll post a video when done.

That was about 8k brand new from the distributor in AZ.

You have to slide the telescope up all the way up so that the back part is touching where it connects to the mount. You may even need a counter weight. Which scope do you have?

Celestron nexstar 102slt . I fixed it though thanks!@@JonDenver

Please do! FYI, through testing I found that the white lithium breaks down faster. I am taking it apart again to upgrade the bearings and I’m going to use mobile 1 synthetic. Clear skies!

I've got my rig running now. The guiding is consistently 1.1 to .75. I never got that before, so thanks you very much. I used the lithium because that's what I have on hand. I'll probably follow your suggestion and do another tear-down and switch lubricants. Is the Mobil 1 Synthetic just oil or is it a grease?@@JonDenver

The Grease, not the oil. Ill post another video when I do the upgrade and pos the link to parts. I heard the upgrade helps the mount last a lot longer. @@jeffstover9579

Congratulations! What kind of camera?

ty! and the camera is a nikon p1000 or shoul I get a DLSR?@@JonDenver

You will need a camera that can detach the lense so you can attach a t-ring adapter. Or you can get an astrophotography camera. Most start with the ZWO asi224 for 8 SE since it’s best use is for moon/planetary photography. It runs under 300$ and you do need to have it connected to a laptop but you will get some really great shots. Other than that a good dslr will work for a little if everything. The 8se is a little too powerful for deep space so you would have to pick small targets. Bodes nebula, owl nebula etc..

@@JonDenver I understand, yet I don't have a good laptop

@@DaBapey I would get a decent dslr like the t7 and get the t-ring adapter on Amazon. You will need a decent pc or laptop to process the photos though.

Correct. About the most you can do is take off the diagonal and add a straight through adapter for photography. The next natural progression for photography would be the AVX equatorial mount, or something similar. For observation, the Alt/Az mount is just fine.

@@JonDenver I prefer 2" eyepieces with an f10 scope for visual especially with a 40mm I prefer not to be stuck with the 1.25 40mm fov. I do very little photography.

I agree 100%. You can’t beat the 2 inch for observation.

Unfortunately not with a dslr. But you can get a 2x or a 3x barlow. You can also try to zoom in with the camera.

Awesome and congrats! I really master that product line so if you have any questions please feel free to reach out. Clear skies!

@@JonDenver thanks! I definately will do

It depends on what kind of photography. Are you looking to do solar system(planets, moon) or deep space like galaxies and nebula?

@@JonDenver galaxies and nebulae

Honestly it’s not the best scope for deep space but for the money it will work just fine as a starter. Consider a camera that can take long exposure, for this scope keep it under 10 seconds or you will get star bloating. Make sure to get the adapter for whatever camera you get and an extension. Without the extension you will not get focus. Later today I’ll post the links of what I have from Amazon. You have to remember though, dslr cameras have a strong red filter so you will not get nebula with a lot of red. Always start with Orion. It’s the brightest and easiest to photograph.

@@JonDenver alright, thanks for the help man.

Thank you!

Because with the Alt/Az mount, it will hit the bottom if you go straight in.

That’s what the slew stops are for.

@@DouglasLippert Sounds like you know all you need to know so have a great day!

Yes, absolutely. I would use a different grease though. I found that the lithium breaks down faster. Mobile 1 synthetic is much better.

I sit in a few forums for the AVX. Also I follow quite a few repair shops and they all say the same thing about the 2 year life span. Clear Skies!

Canon T7

A few days of every month the moon is out during daylight. Not very hard to capture. I’ve done Jupiter and Venus during the day as well. Quite a bit harder.

Thank you! If you have the 5 or 6se it comes with an equatorial wedge. The alignment process is a little different. If you have the 8se you can buy a wedge for about 350$ US. Keep in mind that neither of these make it a “true” equatorial. When the weather is clear for a few nights, I always set up the night before my photo shoot, align and put it in hibernation mode, and cover it. That way it’s ready to go. Sometimes I leave it out for weeks at a time. I have a really good Orion cover. Clear skies!

It works fine for planets but you max out at 30-60 fps. Keep in mind planets are videoed, not photographed. If you want a great dedicated planetary camera the one most like is the ZWO 224. Runs under 300$ US.

@@JonDenver Thanks!

If you move it or power it off then yes. However, you can put it in hibernation mode, and as long as you don’t move anything, it will remember where you left off. It’s great for multiple clear nights. Just don’t shut the power off.

I was still learning the machine. It was hard to keep the rpm up unless always in low gear. I obviously didn’t really crush the CanAm lol. I was really disappointed with the performance of the 1100, coming from a RZR 1000. But then again, it was only 8k out the door brand new, compared to 25k on the RZR. You get what you pay for.

In the long video I believe I used super glue and painted it black.

​@@JonDenverIs guiding working fine now?

@@alioth2004 I had to purchase a new one from Celestron. Then I did a full upgrade with tapered bearings. I followed Jason Burns instructions. Now its smooth as butter!

Hi Oscar, it is a great entry level scope. Easy to use and very portable. There are a lot of accessories you can get to customize it. Works well for planetary viewing and lunar photography, some star clusters like Hercules are easily visible and photograph well. The cons are; you will grow out of it very quickly. For just a few hundred more I would go with the 8se(it’s what I bought shortly after). The 6 does not let enough light in so you will not get very detailed views of anything other than the moon. Saturn will be very hard to photograph and will come out blurry. Deep space photography will have bloated stars on the edges and you won’t get more than a 15second exposure without trailing. Collimating is very difficult(as is with any SC) but with practice gets easier. Get “Bob’s Knobs”. They will make it easier. The glass and mirror are hard to maintain and get dirty very easily. Get use to breaking it down and cleaning the glass. Finally, as with all scopes, you have to determine your goal. If you are more into deeps sky photography, go with a refractor type over a reflector. Remember as well, your mount is vital to photography. If you want to get into it, an equatorial mount is essential. Hope that all helps!

Please tell me which camera was used in this video?

Rotate it by hand 180 prior to setup and alignment. The mount aligns by the starting position. Your alignment will be the same.

I should say also that your rotate it by hand while it is not powered on. That axis is on by a belt and easy to move. Do NOT ever try to rotate the base by hand or you will damage the gears.

You just went too far on one of the adjustments. Be careful not to back the secondary out too far or it will fall out. Start by focusing on a star the best you can. The focus out until you see two rings. Try to get the circle directly in the middle by adjusting the collimating screws. Then you can focus back in. Keep in mind the star will move every time you adjust a screw. I recommend getting “bob’s knobs”. They make it much easier. Hope that helps

@@JonDenver Very stupidly I have dropped my OTA putting into the slid rail I may be lucky, but it did not affect it. I was very worried for a moment; I thought shit I have done it now.

Sky align is a waste of money in my opinion. If you know the constellations, you don’t need sky align. If you want to track, you need a finder scope with camera setup. You can connect it to the mount.

Not really. More for the solar system. For deep sky I recommend an SVBony triple refractor. Even an 80 will be good.

​@@JonDenveri'll probably buy a svbony but a nextstar 8s can see galaxies and nebulas?

@@shrekshrek No telescope really can “see” galaxies and Nebula. You have to take long exposure pics and stack them. The only ones you can see are the Andromeda galaxy if you have a 250 focal length max and Orion you can actually see with binoculars but you won’t see detail or color. Both you will need to be in a dark sky. 8se can see star clusters which are really cool to look at, like Hercules Cluster.

@@JonDenver thank you very much

Sorry for the late reply. I’m moving my studio. I used a t-ring adapter for canon t-7 that I got on Amazon.

You also will need an extension though for back focus.

I bought a 2 inch 90 degree elbow, however yours should have come with a 1-1/4 inch. You will need the additional adapter from the t2 to the elbow as it needs the back focus. Can I ask why you need to skew to the zenith? On an alt/az mount, they don’t track well that high. I would choose a target lower on the horizon for optimal photography.

@@JonDenver Thank you for these answers, and I try to tilt it to the zenit especially according to the objects that I try to take a picture. M110 in winters for example rises too high and the camera comes to force against the base of the scope. Still happy that I realized it very quickly.

​@@user-ut7qp6lu6v Hey user how r u doing 😁

It depends on your goal. Are you wanting to do any photography or just viewing?

Also are you more into solar system (planets and moon) or deep space nebula and galaxies?

@@JonDenver whats the best for deep space objects. also what is the best for planet viewing

@@memerclippedu This is one of those subjects where everyone has their own opinion. Here is what I have found. Reflector scopes such as the Celestron 4,5,6,8 se are ideal for planetary viewing and photography, but not so good for deep space as you get a lot of vinyetting (around the edges) and stars get blown out. Unless you live in a bortle 3 or better area, you will not be able to see very many Nebula or Galaxies. There is no scope that can. You can see Orion Nebula and some cool star clusters, but that’s about it. If you are into deep space then I recommend getting a refractor like the Explore Scientific or Svbony. Make sure it is at least a triplet though. This route can get very expensive with all the filters, cameras, and software needed. My recommendation is to start out with a Celestron 6se for the 800 you have. Lear how to navigate and use the scope, then build from there. Hope that helps. Clear Skies!

Thank you! Make sure to subscribe to my new channel dedicated just to astrophotography. Mike High Astrophotography. I’ll be posting there very soon!

Hell yea brother! Gonna upload the full version next weekend.

Thank you! Although I do miss my DW!

Why you gotta do him dirty like that

Look, I’m just a 50 year old dude having fun. If you don’t appreciate it, feel free to go somewhere else.

Its not that he did it bad. Its the audio. Maybe the settings are wrong on the electric set

Gives me so much energy!

Thanks!

Thanks. I’m still dialing the audio and it helps to know what people hear.

​@@JonDenverno problem. I can still hear all your playing but its nothing compared to that snare