Відео

Sorry, I forgot to record that part. Basically, I drew the outline in pencil, using a 1/8" brass rod as a temporary saddle to confirm the correct location for proper intonation (tune up the E's to pitch and check the octaves). Then it's just a matter of using a sharp blade for an initial cut and a sharp chisel to cut out the groove. Making sure the bottom is level is the tricky part. A flat scraper of the right width helps determine that.

Very carefully! Actually, the back was mostly off already from water damage and separated at the center joint. The one remaining brace was badly warped, so all the back braces were replaced after rejoining the back.

What tool did you used?? As i need to remove a back that has a crack in the middle but the 2 parts can be clued very good i think and then i have to glue the back on again, thanks for your reply!

You are probably correct, going by the saw marks on the inside.

I'll have to go back and see what I did wrong last time and compare my attempt to yours (not currently in the same town where my mandolin harps are). I was getting so much noise, both squeaking and otherwise, just like wood rubbing on wood noise, that I actually put moleskin around the rollers. This helped but did not alleviate the problem. I would LOVE it if some brave soul would remake the little plastic buttons and put them on sale, and/or make a 3D printable version. Like you say, sometimes the buttons are too short to really work, maybe due to wear and tear, and some of my mandolin harps are missing some buttons altogether. Though of course that would mandate I figure out the little spring situation there.

You're welcome!

Good luck figuring it out. They are a real pain to work on.

A damp cotton rag. Water is the safest for dissolving dirt.

Thank you for asking. When checking the size of the rollers we realized there were retention pins missing from the 1/2" thick dowels, so we made another video showing how to fix them. ua-cam.com/video/IMy6F1uApkc/v-deo.html

Thank you for asking. It measures 28" nut to saddle (vibrating string length or VSL).

Listen to the commentary on the video. That is what the label says, but we cannot vouch for its authenticity.

In for repairs. Here is the final result: ua-cam.com/video/6XyBGOzzKSc/v-deo.html

That's awesome, the pickguard really completes the look. I wish I could hear more of it.

Thank you. Frog repairs can be tricky.

@@WhiteBrosMusic I completely agree, it is a very patient and delicate job. You achieved a good job, very professional. Congratulations.

Thank you for asking. The highest auction price I found was for a violin by R Dolling from the 1920's that sold for $1998 in 2005. The retail price could be higher, depending on the condition. Take it to a reputable shop and have them evaluate it, or you can ship it if there are none nearby. Sending good quality photos electronically also works for a start.

@@WhiteBrosMusic Thank you very much! This violin means a lot to me. My Great Grandfather was a fantastic musician, but he came down with(what we think was)Parkinsons in the early 50's, and was not able to play anymore. So the Violin has been put away for almost 70 years now(unstrung).. A few people have said it not being stringed and setup up could be really bad, but according the appraisal from 2007, by David Bonsey, the violin is in "excellent" condition, and was valued at between $1300-1800 in 2007. I really want to make sure I am protecting it properly in the years to come. It is a very special work of art.

@@JonHop1 If you were wanting to sell the instrument, you would want to have it strung and properly set up to show to prospective purchasers. A specialist violin shop with one or more properly trained and experienced violin makers could do this for you -- always deal with a bowed-string specialist shop, not most general-purpose guitar, band instrument, and keyboard emporium type of places (though a few such places do have qualified violin makers working for them in-house or otherwise). A violin shop might also sell the instrument for you on consignment, deducting a commission and the cost of any needed setup or repair. This would also be the place to go for an appraisal for insurance purposes. It seem that you or someone in your family has already dealt with David Bonsey for this; he is still in business and eminently qualified if it is convenient for you to take the instrument back to him. You might want to get your fiddle strung up even if you intend to keep it, unplayed for the time being, in the family. A shop will usually install strings for no charge beyond the cost of the strings (about $50 and up for the set of four, depending on the type of string, up to about a couple of hundred dollars; a low-end option will probably be just fine for you). If more setup or repair work is needed to get it into really fine playable condition, of course the expense will be greater; if it is still in "excellent" condition and doesn't need a new bridge or any cracks repaired or anything major, it won't be much. On the other hand, a lot of work would could mean a lot of hundreds of dollars. "One owner" doesn't really count for much (or indeed anything) in the violin world, but it's nice to have the original purchase records with the instrument. Among other things, they testify to its origin and authenticity.

It's possible, but not recommended. Better to just add another clear pick guard on the other side to maintain as much of the original as possible. Also, it is very difficult to remove the pick guard without damage, and if you flipped it over the E would be hidden. Hard to clean off the glue residue too, so usually once a pick guard is removed it's scrap.

What's wrong with being gay?

Freight train. Here's the original: ua-cam.com/video/IUK8emiWabU/v-deo.html

Practice, practice, practice.

I did by listening (to the albums at the time) and mimicking what I heard. It’s the inflections and accents and rhythm that give you the style. The notes are fairly easy for most of it. I can still play some of it today and it’s 50 yrs later.

The usual cost is between $175 and $250 depending on if a new saddle is needed.

Neither does he😅

Its called a bridge...😮

The top was quite rough, with chisel marks still visible. For the best tone, it should be smooth, with graduated thickness.

It just so happens that we have another lion's head violin being restored in the shop that will be available soon. It is a much plainer model, with no edge treatments, but still a nice specimen. We can let you know when it is ready to go if you like.

Thank you for asking. For a standard Rosewood bridge like the one in the video it would be around $120 to $150 and would take a few days.