Відео

If you install Seltron electronics bundle ,BDX20 , WCD20 and a Belimo secondary air controller you would burn one third less. With lambda probe model

Hi. Yes, it is! As an advice, try to do something different than I did in this video (you will save time): try not to mold that glue around as I did, but instead, put it directly on the backside of the new nozzle, of course, after you prepare it frst. Then turn your nozzle upside down, and put the glue directly on the nozzle sides. This way you will get uniformity around it and a perfect contact inside.

It depends on your motherboard. As it is mentioned in the video's description, most of the DDR3L are backward compatible. But in your case, it should be the motherboard. So check in the BIOS any voltage options. Try to play with the combinations there and test with each of your memories, and then with both of them. Just try them all.

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 Solved, I do re-check the Memory, it shown that it's a ECC memory and my motherboard didn't support the ECC memory, so I switch to non ECC Memory and it worked. So the point is my motherboard doesn't support the ECC Memory, thank's btw

@@arirahmankurniawan555 Or so... Glad you solved it!

Good for you!

A fost exact 786 (aprox 160 euro).

Hi. You have noticed right.In the back side, the nozzle must be pushed all the way and it should touch the boiler wall. Why? It is deigned that way...

neni treba:)

Da. O singura data. Daca functionarea e corespunzatoare in timp, datorita procesului de gazeificare, exista o probabilitate mare ca, la un moment dat, ceramica de jos sa crape.

Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I don't know Czech, but some I think I managed to understand. I don't know what to say about that. It's understandable your frustration, but it is for the first time I hear about this sort of problems you mentioned. But, at least in my case, apart from the nozzle and door pads, I had to replace the back exhaustor, and some sensors so far,. All spares were Atmos OEM, purchased by code and it is still working ok so far, although I don't have the perfect setup, recommended in the manual. Indeed, there are very few plumbers who can do a perfect setup, or a maintenance, therefor some time we have to roll on the sleeves and do it by yourself. In your case, is bad all these happened in after 2 years. But, you can start digging around and fix each of the problems. The fan can be replaced, the regulators can be replaced, and the sensors inside the boiler can also be replaced. If the fan runs at full all the time, there is a broken sensor. I have a video on that too. If you open up the hood, you will gain access at least to 3 sensors. One of them, is the fan regulator... and so on.

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 Hello.Thank you for the explanation.The fan has been working at full power since the beginning of the furnace installation.It looks like the installers didn't install it at all.Therefore, the fan probably pulls all the temperature into the chimney.It is true that these plumbers did not know how to properly install even the Seltron parameters but I had to do it myself according to instructions.They have their own theories for problems with the stove, but they are not accurate and the stove does not work as it should.I will look for the location of the thermostat for the fan on your UA-cam channel if you posted it somewhere and I will install it because the thermostat must be.The instructions also say that the fan does not always rotate at full power.The installers, of course, claim the opposite and they say that's how it should be. What did you change on the back of the stove with a chimney? Thanks again and best regards.

Hi there. 11 winteres in my case. But time is relative to way of using, wood quality, exhausting, cleaning, and so on. But an average of 10 years usage I think it is ok.

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 this is my first winter with this stove ( atmos 25gs) and I am learning how to burn it efficiently. how much storage tank do you have? do you have laddomat? do you burn in the stove using an exhaust fan or on a natural chimney draft?

@@szymonstarczynski585 The best way to use your stove is to respect those indicated by Atmos in the book... dry wood, type of wood, Landdomat is also their choice, connection to chimney and also the chimney build. Further on I assume your choice for this boiler 25GS, was according to your place size and insulation and the number of heaters inside. Regarding using fan or natural draft, I think it would be better to stay only on natural chimney draft, but you have to check very often if the specs written are met in that case (retur temps in your Landdomat, would be the most important). But from what I could notice, the gasification process takes place only with the fan involvement. If gasification don't take place, there would be bad for the boiler as there would be a lot of corrosive deposits. But then again, it all depends if your needs are met inside the house. I my case I try to stay by the book, although I don't have a Landdomat in between but, instead, 2 pumps (outgoing and incoming) which they are ok so far. Anyways, thanks for your questions as it gave my a reason for another video on this!

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 in Poland, where I live, it's hard to find any information about atmos stoves, so it's nice to read advice from a long-time user. do you have a large accumulation tank for the stove?

@@szymonstarczynski585 I have an 800 liters tank for DC32S but i should have gone with 1000 liters. At 50 kw someone has 2000 liters and it s great.

Salut. parca 1000 sau 1100

Salut. Nu am idee, dar cred ca destul de repede. Eu abia a doua zi am verificat daca se mai misca in pozitie si era fixata.

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 Mulțumesc pentru răspuns. Dar este iarnă si nu pot aștepta mult.

Conform instructiunilor, pentru sanatatea cazanului, ar trebui ca termostatul responsabil sa fie reglat undeva in jurul valorii de 65 de grade. Ideea e ca exhaustorul sa nu mearga aiurea. Daca mai e jar, creste temperatura in cazan, pompele vor recircula din nou, iar apa pe retur va scadea si temperatura in cazan. Daca exhaustorul e setat la o temperatura de inchidere mica (ex. 40 de grade), atunci va merge destul de mult timp aiurea, intrucat nici jar nu mai e sau e prea putin ramas ca sa mai creasca temperatura in cazan. Din acest motiv e bine si pentru ventilator si pentru cazan, ca temperatura minima de retur sa fie aceeasi si pentru inchiderea exhaustorului.. adica 60-65 de grade.

@@ferrarimihailescu4274 What is the diameter secondary air pipe?

@@Rey-wl5km Man, no I've no clue. Does it matter? It is what it is there, why bother about?

@@Rey-wl5km Man, I have no clue. It is what it is there, why bother about?

Thanks man!

What was the reason/ symthoms that you decided to change the nozzle ?

Hi. By the end of last winter, I noticed the temperature inside wasn't as high as usually (like 27 degrees, with the boiler set at 80-85 degrees). So, I checked all the other sensors, outside the boiler and they seem to work ok. Then I thought the problem could reside inside the boiler and the only thing that could be wrong was the nozzle, as its holes were smashed or covered and so, the gasification process inside did not take place anymore. This thing was confirmed by the guys from Atmos spare parts shop, who sow the pictures I sent. They said that nozzle could do for another year, but they also said it is me who supposed to know best, probably thinking about the temp inside the house. So this is the story...

Thank you, i changed the nozzle too but it was not the solution for my problem

@@aivarasjanu What's the problem in your case? Of course there could be a lot of other scenarios...

Salut. Dupa ce ridici capacul centralei, ai acces la toate. Schimbarea se face similar. Mai exista niste capilare laterale (sper sa nu fiu nevoit sa le schimb si pe alea,.. e mai dificil).