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Thanks 👍

Thanks for the comment and viewing.

Thanks for the nice comment … wish I had more consistent uploads, but they come as they get done.

Thanks for watching

Thanks

Thanks

Glad you found it interesting…. You’ll love the area.

Couldn’t have made it happen without your help.

Thanks

Not sure you can form (bend) the plywood the the shapes needed, maybe the back and seat slats, but the front legs/arm rests might be issue. Not sure exactly what you have in mind, but just might work if you use thin plywood (1/8” ???) and glue the laminates together in forms to get to 3/4”-1” final thickness…. Might be worth a try. Sounds interesting tho.

@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks for the reply. I should have been more clear. The amazing chairs in this video are way beyond my skill level, I'm afraid. I was referring to a traditional Adirondack chair with straight pieces. Would laminated marine grade (or higher) plywood be strong and durable enough?

@@crimdell got it … sure you can build “traditional” Adirondack chairs from plywood … might have a great look. But you’re correct to use marine great otherwise it wood delaminate. Hope this link from instagram posting comes thru … I did a series of postings on this build - these are probably number 10 and 11 of these I’ve built over time. Plans I use are circa 1950’s. instagram.com/p/CVLXezFoBIk/

@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Thanks Bob. I thought marine grade plywood would be okay but I could find nothing about using it online. I appreciate the feedback. The chairs on IG are incredible. I love the back design. I found free plans online that I intend to use and I think I will revise it to include your shaped back. Subscribed!

@@crimdell thanks … the shaped back adds a lot. The wood in those chairs is African Mahogany in hopes it will last. Past builds were bigbox pine painted. Those last only about 10 years before the weather gets to them.

Try www.woodworkersjournal.com/wine-presentation-box-project/.

Neville, thanks for the comment. I’ve made 10 of these so far. All are still very much in use. I’ve “improved” a little each batch. Current design has much wider arm rest with a ‘cup-holder’, I keep lowering the back of the seat and angling the back backwards more to give a more comfortable seat, I improvised a side table that can be removed and finally I’ve changed material to a more rot resistant specie - red grandis was last set. You can see all these on my Instagram…. You’ll have to scroll thru posts to get to the builds in question.

Jumping Jacks thanks

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Gen Bowen ... if I understand your comment, that would result in “feel” of 15 degrees when setting in chair. Which is about right. Thanks for watching and the input .... I believe you have the correct “rule of thumb”

@@BobMcKenziewoodworking yes sir it is very comfortable, I 1st heard those numbers from another carpenter pretty well known, maybe you've heard of him...Norm Abram? Lol, I really enjoyed your video and look forward to seeing more, thanks for what you do, it's really appreciated

Good question Brian. I don’t do a lot of woodwork for sale. I’ve always had a hard time coming up with a price - I’ve really come to conclude one (usually) can not make a living solely from Woodworking. I think that’s the reason you see more folks in the “offshoot” production/promotion side of things. Like musicians selling tee shirts. Having said that, I’d sell them (using big box lumber) for $150-$200 a piece. So that’s about doubling the price of materials. I heard Tom McLaughlin say, off handily, in one of his videos that he figured the cost of wood was only ~10% of the final price, but I’m not a “Tom McLaughlin” nor are these pieces of furniture he might be commissioned to produce. You’ve raised a great topic for which I’ve found little coverage/assistance on social media.

I do not sell the plans ... (1) I’m doing a rebuild on Instagram with some mods, (2) you can direct message me on Instagram and I might be able to help you with plans. Thanks for watching

@@BobMcKenziewoodworking would love to have plans! Any help on this?

@@mkmoxley533 see my reply last year …. I don’t have plans, but would be glad to help you thru process of getting dimensions etc. ….. look thru past Instagram posts and/or direct message me from there

thanks

Tom Zahlman thanks

Lothar Arrigoni thanks .... built two more with “mods” mentioned in video ... still needs a little more slop in back and wider arm rests.

Sorry friend, but I can't attach a file to this message/reply. If you send me message in Instagram (link above), maybe I can get you info you are looking for.

Thanks For the comment Bob, yea I don't know what the issues is for sure, but Rockler indicated that downloaded plans are not available in UK even the plans I bought came in a box with some templates. Can you send me a message via my Instagram account?

Rodney Robbins yea, learned my lesson... thanks

Colorado Crafter thanks

Pat M thanks

pro trick : watch series at flixzone. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies lately.

grupp61 thanks ... happy thanksgiving to you as well

Joe Basement Woodworking & DIY thanks

thanks

William Howard thanks for watching and the nice comment....

popawalker good luck on recovery .... not sure how to send pictures of two chairs I built after the ‘prototype’. I’ll look to see if I can get them to you somehow. I’m not big into chair building, but working there. The few chairs/stools etc I have built seem to tend toward a 15 degree plus or minus angle for back. I also find it important that the back angle is not necessarily from the horizontal, but from the seat. If the seat is angled (sloped) down in the back you’ll want to take the back angle from the the seat (not the horizontal). Good luck, thanks for viewing

Bob, thanks for your response. After I wrote the picture request I actually went to your instagram account and saw some pictures there that I am assuming are the updated angle. they look nice.@@BobMcKenziewoodworking

William Howard thanks ... I love the concept and use if often

Thanks SayWhaat

Thanks grupp61, It takes time (read discipline) to get in front of the computer ... altho it is a lot 'cleaner' than the studio/shop

Thanks “Joe Basement” .... I’m not much of a live edge kind of guy, but need to figure out what to do with some of these odd pieces of wood I seem to have acquired. I’ve seen a lot of waterfall tables of various size/shapes and thought I’d give it a try. Thanks for watching.

Thanks For Watching Pat, I at First Found The Leigh Jig Somewhat Intimidating, But Find It Easier With Each Use - I Still Need The Instruction Manual Each Time. Mine Is Second Hand Too. It Came With The Upgrade Package Mentioned In The Videos Referenced Below. I Like Your Idea Of Instructional Video ... I'll Give It A Thought. In The Meantime I Found This 2 Part Video From "New Brit Workshop" Helpful ... here is link to first video ua-cam.com/video/N4DKUq4dtQ4/v-deo.html Title Of Video(s) is/are "Dovetail Drawers With Leigh Jig - Part 1". By The Way, I have Purchased New Bits From Leigh On Line and Have Found Them Extremely Helpful. Before Processing My Order They Actually Called To make Sure The Bits I Was Buying Was (1) For The Jig I Have, And (2) Would Actually Do What I Wanted Them To Do. Thanks Again. .... Bob

@@BobMcKenziewoodworking Bob, thank you very much for the info. I'll watch the videos referenced. Do you mind if I post any other questions here or get in touch in your preference of contacts? Messenger, email......

Pat M this seems to work... feel free post/ask away and I’ll try to answer.

Pat M, thanks for the good words. The plug alignment is pretty much ‘random’ on the chair build. I found the dark wood grain and size didn’t make a big difference. I do try to alien grain on lighter woods because it is more noticeable. Not sure if you have seen any of my videos where I used plugs for pocket screw holes or not. If the plug is hidden (most cases) I cut the plug in the easiest way. Once you have tried a Kreg hole plug you’ll see if is easier to cut plug with grain running 90 degrees from hole.

matt malone Matt, not sure the actual angle. I usually do these thins by “site”. The leg sections on the rails taper from 4” to 2 1/4” over a height of 8 1/2”. The leg sections on the footboard only taper to 3” (from 4” over 8 1/2”). This way when put together and viewed the leg section looks similar ‘all around’. That is, the base of the leg that hits the floor is 3” as viewed from side or foot. If that makes sense? After doing this, I’m not sure the slight difference is that noticeable one way or the other. I did not taper the legs on the head board as those are not visible and the larger “footprint” adds to stability etc. Thanks for viewing.

Matt, not sure the actual angle. I usually do these thins by “site”. The leg sections on the rails taper from 4” to 2 1/4” over a height of 8 1/2”. The leg sections on the footboard only taper to 3” (from 4” over 8 1/2”). This way when put together and viewed the leg section looks similar ‘all around’. That is, the base of the leg that hits the floor is 3” as viewed from side or foot. If that makes sense? After doing this, I’m not sure the slight difference is that noticeable one way or the other. I did not taper the legs on the head board as those are not visible and the larger “footprint” adds to stability etc. Thanks for viewing.

woodrat1952 us woodworker’s seem to always find ways to tweak things ... maybe that’s why we do what we do. I agree, angle for the back - for me a 15 deg angle is about right.

GuysWoodshop runs in batches. Thanks

grupp61 I wait 24 hours between coats ... wipe on let sit about 20 minutes wipe off excess.... wait 24 hours and do it a again. I put 2 or 3 coats on. Go to their website to see if they might have other products of interest. This is actually a floor finish. I wait a good two weeks or more before I apply wax, if any at all, to make sure it is fully cured. Thanks for comment(s).

Thanks for the reply . I will take a look at their product line on their website.

Joe Basement Woodworking & DIY really easy ... I also put coat of paste wax on the jig areas I don’t want glue to stick.

Another great video Bob. Clear, concise, and informative (aka entertaining for guys like us). Can an oli based shellac or another type of clear coat be applied after the Danish oil ? I am currently building a pantry cabinet for my daughter with 4 sliding shelves, and a trash/ recycling slide drawer out of 3/4" baltic, and 3/4" clear coated maple veneer cabinet plywood and would like to preserve the natural look of the baltic , however I would prefer to make it "easy care". I look forward to seeing your next video.Have a great week and God bless.

grupp61 thanks for comment ... I would think you could put a good water based “poly” (like General Finish High Performance) over the clear oil - I would wait a good time before to make sure oil is fully cured.

Thanks Bob. That's what I was considering, just was'nt sure if oil and poly bode well. The guys at my local Woodcraft store will know I suppose. Take care.

tara sorry for the slight delay in responding. I generally do not sell what I make - it is more of a hobby. Having said that I’m located in the Midwest and if you are near buy maybe we can discuss further. Thanks for your comment.

Joe Basement Woodworking & DIY thanks for comment/watching..... I seem to get one corner that does not match up as good ..... taking too much of bandsaw cut marks off I guess …… of course the less grain definition the easier.

Bob McKenzie I've learned I'm my own worst critic..bet noone will notice..

GuysWoodshop you explained the tambour ‘jig’ great .... simple enough to make a try at it ... I use it frequently